Vic's new 2012 Puma build

Hey Vic ... for what it is worth ... they sell pre-stain products (mostly shellac!) like this:  ( I don't use as I make my own)

https://www.minwax.c...ood-conditioner

Hickory can be found a lot of places ...most 'popular' is Minwax    https://www.minwax.c...inwax-gel-stain

Note Gel Stains are good and easy if you don't follow directions!  After pre-coat seal ...wipe it on and work it in until nearly dry... then just topcoat it with a dusting of spray shellac (aerosol) ...it magically will dry the gel-stain instantly ...no waiting! The  next day a coat of Helmsman (Min-wax) Polyurethane ( a Spar Varnish used on boats) ) and it will be done and ready for spilt wine or beer! 

Hickory is a warm color... like a gunstock. I like lighter like Golden Oak. Danish Oil is actually not an oil per say ...it is actually a varnish. It is a good product. I would though top coat with a Spar varnish (poly) to have a durable surface.  

PS You must be psyched... making what you want having the experience of use. I love mods!

Edited by buckland, 21 February 2020 - 12:49 AM.

Hey Vic ... for what it is worth ... 

A lot, actually.  Thanks again for your insights.

Hey Vic ... for what it is worth ... they sell pre-stain products (mostly shellac!) like this:  ( I don't use as I make my own)

https://www.minwax.c...ood-conditioner

Hickory can be found a lot of places ...most 'popular' is Minwax    https://www.minwax.c...inwax-gel-stain

 

Note Gel Stains are good and easy if you don't follow directions!  After pre-coat seal ...wipe it on and work it in until nearly dry... then just topcoat it with a dusting of spray shellac (aerosol) ...it magically will dry the gel-stain instantly ...no waiting! The  next day a coat of Helmsman (Min-wax) Polyurethane ( a Spar Varnish used on boats) ) and it will be done and ready for spilt wine or beer! 

 

Hickory is a warm color... like a gunstock. I like lighter like Golden Oak. Danish Oil is actually not an oil per say ...it is actually a varnish. It is a good product. I would though top coat with a Spar varnish (poly) to have a durable surface.  

 

PS You must be psyched... making what you want having the experience of use. I love mods!

OK, so the steps to apply this stuff are:

1) Pre-stain with a brush or rag and then sand with 220 ... while still wet or once dry?

2) Apply stain... gel or otherwise... working it in... with a sander?  000 steel wool?

3) Apply a top coat - I don't want to spray... it would make a mess in the camper unless I tape everything up.  So, with steel wool?

Do all 3 products have to be oil based?

I'm inclined to go with HomeDepot, although Lowes does carry Minwax stuff here in Calgary that HomeDepot does not.  So, thinking of:

- Varathane pre-stain

- Watco Danish Oil in either Natural or Golden Oak

- Watco Wipe-On satin poly.

In my previous build, I used Natural Danish oil on the Baltic Birch and rubbed it in with steel wool after sanding with 220.  I applied two coats.  That's it.  It was not waterproof, but easy to re-apply when desired.  I liked the satin finish vs a gloss.

I'm actually really looking forward to being DONE with the woodworking stuff (for now) so I can get to the electrical and plumbing bits which I enjoy more... but yeah mods.. or building it MY WAY is great fun!

Still do a test strip.

If you are going to use Danish Oil don't use a Gel stain. (two separate and very different application steps)

So from the above I'd suggest:

1) very light hand sanding 220 or 320 to smooth any burrs.

2) wipe surface (or Vac) to remove dust

3) either Seal coat (dries in a couple minutes) or Pre-stain product.

4) 320 light hand sand (use a block or scrap 2x4) to knock off raised fiber

5) wipe off dust

6) Best way to apply Danish oil is (wear rubber gloves) pour some in a container (tuna fish can is perfect size) and with a folded piece of cotton (an old T shirt).... get a well soaked wad and wipe with grain ... no need to be neat... keep applying until the wood seems saturated .... wait a couple minutes ... then with a clean dry cloth....WIPE OFF ALL excess oil. Allow to dry over night

7) repeat step 6 but it will need far less for second coat. (repeat id you want a third coat.

8) IF you want more coats of protection Wipe-On Poly is a good choice. If so... apply wipe 0000 steal wool same as above ....be sure to dry wipe..... these are thin but very smooth when done and it is easy.... no runs or drips. 

I would only put Spar Varnish on horizontal surfaces.... no need for further protection on cab sides.

Good Luck!!!!

When I did my cabinets with birch plywood from Home Depot I used Minwax stain, sanded with 400 grit, and then applied 3 coats of poly, sanding and tack cloth in between each coat.  I found it extremely important to pay attention to the tiny little wood hairs that stand up when you brush your hand over the wood surface. You will find that when you brush in one direction the hairs stand up, and in the other direction they lay down.  I sanded, cleaned, and applied poly only in the direction that made the hairs lay down. Doing this I got the best results I ever got when working with wood. Funny that in all the woodworking web sites I viewed this was never mentioned.

Raised fiber occurs anytime one applied a chemical or water to wood, depending on the species for amount. Plywood is cut on a roller and those veneers basically are sheared so very high level of cut fiber ends. Another good use of a seal coat.  

OK, many coats later, it is now doing a longer cure before I decide if I want to keep it as is, or add the Wipe-on-Poly.  Looks very nice.  We decided to just go with Natural Watco Danish Oil.  

In the meantime, I built my side dinette using a Lagun table leg and 16" flip up hinges and 2 Bonvivo II chairs.  

Here is a view with the seats flipped up and the leg deployed.  Note that the seats themselves are not finished, but just raw maple plywood.  I didn't want the chance of any oil rubbing off on the seats, and may also want to add industrial strength velcro to hold the seats down too.  A table top is yet to come.

Edited by Vic Harder, 04 March 2020 - 09:35 AM.

I have now started on the power part of the build.   Since I was making up cables, I thought I would write up a short process in case anyone else wants to do this.

This is the end of AWG 1/0 fine stranded welding cable.  I found 10' of both red and black wire on Amazon for a reasonable price.

Awesome work Vic!

Your Cabinets came out looking great! I have that same table mount and like it a lot. I did shorten the horizontal bar...having to cut it and bore a hole for the pin (swivel). wasn't hard but it is scary cutting something like that. It worked out better for me as the table top was then more solidly centered on the top plate.

You are doing a terrific job...layout looks real comfortable.