Insulating
#1
Posted 05 November 2019 - 04:41 AM
I'm thinking the greatest points of intrusion for the cold are the cabover folding sections and where the upper and lower camper connect.
It would be easy enough to build a false insulated floor for the camper but I wonder if it would actually help?
2016 Alaskan Camper i.e. best decision I've ever made
#2
Posted 05 November 2019 - 03:35 PM
I did see that you can get the option of an insulated floor from the company. Since my camper is on a flatdeck it will be pretty easy for me to insulate from the bottom up. For the cost of some rigid insulation and a little bit of work I think it will be more than worth it. This past trip we used some reflective thermal break insulation under our foam and felt a big difference in temp. more so in the ''truck-bedside''areas.
#3
Posted 06 November 2019 - 12:09 AM
Even something as simple as interlocking 1/4" EVA foam tiles over our Grandby's floor has made a huge difference in comfort for us on cool winter nights, and didn't break the bank in the slightest. I encourage you to go forth and insulate wherever you perceive there may be value in it.
Rico.
2011 FWC Grandby Shell on a 2011 Nissan Titan King Cab SV 4WD
#4
Posted 06 November 2019 - 01:18 AM
Rico's solution sounds pretty good. They are cheap enough that after they wear out in a season or two, you can toss them (or use them on your shop floor) and buy new ones.....I have used a very cheap industrial, low pile carpet in my Alaskans but I'm not a winter camper so I think that insulating tiles sound worth trying. Just remember to check the height of the ones you choose against the door bottoms in the camper so you can be sure the doors will still open/close easily. I thing 1/4" to 5/16" might be OK but check to see if a 3/8" tile will fit or not.
I suppose you could just buy one or two and try them all around the floor to be sure they fit.
You should also insulate the areas of the floor in the closet, under the seats and under the sink with the exception of messing with the pump and the tubing for it, the tubing for water in/out of the camper if possible.
1988 Ford F-250 HD Lariat 4x4 8 Ft. bed
1976 Alaskan 8 Ft. CO camper
#5
Posted 06 November 2019 - 01:23 AM
Does anybody have experience with an insulated floor compared to a non insulated floor? ?
Not built in. But like the others have added material under the foam mattress and a fatigue runner on top of the aisle floor. Results are, warmer in bed with less condensation under the mattress and a noticeable difference in comfort underfoot. Also sometimes use reflexit around the berth walls. That seems to help with cold spots also.
Edited by klahanie, 06 November 2019 - 01:25 AM.
#6
Posted 06 November 2019 - 02:55 PM
I use carpet with rubber backing on the floor, seems to help keep camper floor warmer on those cold days. The carpet I used was a industrial door mat with a nice design cut to fit.
#7
Posted 07 November 2019 - 01:58 PM
Yeah I was thinking as many spots as possible in the lower camper, behind the cupboards if possible and definitely below the seats which should be easy access.Not built in. But like the others have added material under the foam mattress and a fatigue runner on top of the aisle floor. Results are, warmer in bed with less condensation under the mattress and a noticeable difference in comfort underfoot. Also sometimes use reflexit around the berth walls. That seems to help with cold spots also.
2016 Alaskan Camper i.e. best decision I've ever made
#8
Posted 07 November 2019 - 02:00 PM
Yeah stepping on carpet sounds much warmer and would help soak up some snow melt.I use carpet with rubber backing on the floor, seems to help keep camper floor warmer on those cold days. The carpet I used was a industrial door mat with a nice design cut to fit.
2016 Alaskan Camper i.e. best decision I've ever made
#9
Posted 16 December 2019 - 09:20 PM
On my early 1960’s NCO Alaskan, I’ve added 1.5” rigid foam insulation under the floor, which adds R-5.78. For perspective, 3/4” plywood is R-.94. Used pressure treated 2x2” (“2x4” ripped to make 1.5” ) screwed across every 20” or so to support the camper weight and keep the insulation from crushing. After painting the 2x2s and floor exterior with gray Behr deck paint, I screwed and glued the insulation using fender washers to help distribute the tension of the screw heads.
To get a proper fit, I end up shimming between the top of the pickup bed side and the camper anyway, so the extra height is a nonissue.
it is regrettable that Alaskan did not insulate the lower half of these campers, but insulating the floor helps, especially as the floor is the coldest area of the camper.
Used the same insulation below and in front of the water tank too.
Made window plugs for the side windows using 1/2” rigid foam insulation with aluminum foil tape to finish off the edges. They store behind the seat cushions when not in use.
Edited by Keith in Co, 23 December 2019 - 08:59 PM.
#10
Posted 18 December 2019 - 11:36 PM
So did you essentially build an insulated platform that sits in the truck bed then camper goes on top?
2016 Alaskan Camper i.e. best decision I've ever made
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