Tricks for cable jacks?

I've been thinking that if I can extend my jacks with a plate like Stan does, I would buy a third jack and use it at the center of the back wall. The camper comes back just about to the back of the bumper, so I think it would work. The tripod seems like it would be pretty stable, and has to be better than just the 2 jacks, right?

Has anyone tried this before? I have never seen it talked about. Maybe it will cause a catastrophe!

I've been thinking that if I can extend my jacks with a plate like Stan does, I would buy a third jack and use it at the center of the back wall. The camper comes back just about to the back of the bumper, so I think it would work. The tripod seems like it would be pretty stable, and has to be better than just the 2 jacks, right?

 

Has anyone tried this before? I have never seen it talked about. Maybe it will cause a catastrophe!

I believe many camper builders from days long gone used 3 jacks for better stability.   I’ve seen older Alaskans that used 2 on one side, and one on the other side.  It has to help with balance point issues, but you still need to be careful of weight distribution.

Guys, what am I missing?  The cable jacks are being described as "sketchy" and could bend, etc....why not go the FWC brackets on all four corners and bolt on screw jacks...are cable jack more stable that screw jacks?  What are their advantages?

Thanks...

That's what would be good with 3 jacks. With 2, I have to get them right at the COG point so the camper doesn't flop over forward or back. With 3, the 2 side ones would go all the way forward and the rear one just goes in the middle. No need to pay attention to where the weight is.

To me, the reasons for the cable jacks are: mounted jacks a pain to remove/replace, no brackets left on camper, a tiny bit less weight, cheaper (I'm kind of frugal), camper looks cool without jack brackets, they do what I need them to do.

FWC uses them to load new campers on trucks at the factory, so they must not have destroyed too many campers with them.

That's what would be good with 3 jacks. With 2, I have to get them right at the COG point so the camper doesn't flop over forward or back. With 3, the 2 side ones would go all the way forward and the rear one just goes in the middle. No need to pay attention to where the weight is.

 

To me, the reasons for the cable jacks are: mounted jacks a pain to remove/replace, no brackets left on camper, a tiny bit less weight, cheaper (I'm kind of frugal), camper looks cool without jack brackets, they do what I need them to do.

 

FWC uses them to load new campers on trucks at the factory, so they must not have destroyed too many campers with them.

I guess it depends on use of FWC and how often you would load/off-load. 

Three bolts per screw jack as I recall; yes jacks are heavy and to my way of thinking just outriggers waiting to hang up on something or get hit and tear up camper...BUT...I never travel with my jacks attached and since '16 when we bought our Hawk they have stayed in the boxes in my shop unused.  Looks are secondary to me and function, safe function is #1.  What FWC does at the factory is in my world NA and they do install one hell of a lot of screw jacks.

Oh, I think you can get aluminum brackets but again steel is more durable, costs less and only weighs a couple of pounds more.

All depends on your needs and risk tolerance.

Edited by Wallowa, 18 July 2020 - 02:50 AM.

Guys, what am I missing?  The cable jacks are being described as "sketchy" and could bend, etc....why not go the FWC brackets on all four corners and bolt on screw jacks...are cable jack more stable that screw jacks?  What are their advantages?

For me:

 - I don't think adding the brackets to an old camper is a trivial modification.

 - I have 4 cable jacks; I've learned how to use them.  Any 1000+ lb. load will be "sketchy" up high on 4 spindly legs.

 - 4 manual bolt on jacks would cost me more than my yearly travel budget.

Thanks, Stan.  I think I am going to add a shelf to my jacks.

jim

I've attached a photo of the Brophy jack that others have mentioned.

I only have two of these and I have not been able to get the camper off my truck alone. I have a special model F150 (7700) that has its rear end sticking up several inches higher than the front when it is not loaded. It actually rides better when loaded or pulling. I would have gone to the four corner jacks, but I am not sure that the corners on a 1980 keystone are built so that they can have jacks put that much force on the vertical bars or if they even can have braces fasten to them. 

The old Palomino Bronco used to use three jacks to lift it off and I worked with that many times, with not too much difficulty. But the Brophy jacks only go up so high and the the tolerances are so tight that it is indeed very sketchy.

I have a couple of those crank jacks that fastened to an underplate on the bottom of the Palomino Bronco. Maybe I could use those in the back and the Brophys in the front? But even that worries me that the old bottom plates will put too much pressure on the old floor pack plywood.

I just haven't figured out this out so if anyone has insight, it's appreciated. 

I checked out your build site, and that is some nice work.  So the Keystone has been on your F150 and you are having difficulty removing because you cannot lift the camper high enough with the jacks?  Have you tried building a platform out of pavers to get the jacks up higher so that you can clear the high backend?  After I added leaf springs in my truck, it sat high in the back.  I would put down one paver on each side so that I didn't have to max out the jacks.  The pavers are stable and provide a solid contact for the jacks.  Your jacks will be higher off the ground and will increase the sketch factor, but it might be enough for you to get the truck out safely.  

I've attached a photo of the Brophy jack that others have mentioned.

 

I only have two of these and I have not been able to get the camper off my truck alone. I have a special model F150 (7700) that has its rear end sticking up several inches higher than the front when it is not loaded. It actually rides better when loaded or pulling. I would have gone to the four corner jacks, but I am not sure that the corners on a 1980 keystone are built so that they can have jacks put that much force on the vertical bars or if they even can have braces fasten to them. 

 

The old Palomino Bronco used to use three jacks to lift it off and I worked with that many times, with not too much difficulty. But the Brophy jacks only go up so high and the the tolerances are so tight that it is indeed very sketchy.

 

I have a couple of those crank jacks that fastened to an underplate on the bottom of the Palomino Bronco. Maybe I could use those in the back and the Brophys in the front? But even that worries me that the old bottom plates will put too much pressure on the old floor pack plywood.

 

I just haven't figured out this out so if anyone has insight, it's appreciated. 

Call Brophy and see if they make a jack extension, if they don’t, a local machine shop should be able to do it.

I attacked 4X4 blocks under the feet of two of my cable jacks to get them high enough.  PO used pallets but I wanted more stability.