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Battery novice needs help


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#51 BryanToyFWC

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Posted 18 September 2021 - 06:10 PM

The Victron IP22 is grounded through the plug and double insulated, so you don't need any additional grounding lug. It also full replaces your existing converter. Remove the Iota and install the Victron.



Thank you Rando, one day I’m going to have to drive to Boulder and buy you a beer.

Another dumb one. The Iota is not plugged in to anything, but hard wired. Assuming I’ll just need to clip the plug off and hard wire? Guessing they are all sold with a plug for AC supply, knowing that the plug may be disassembled?
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#52 rando

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Posted 18 September 2021 - 06:14 PM

From a technical perspective, cutting of the cord and hard wiring is just fine.   There maybe a slight chance that would cause issues with your warranty, so another option would be to plug into the 120V outlet for your fridge (if the camper has one) or buy a short extension cord, and cut the socket end off, hard wire that into the breaker panel and plug the charger into the socket. 


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#53 BryanToyFWC

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Posted 26 October 2021 - 12:37 AM

Just reviving thread to thank everyone!!  I successfully installed a new 100 ah Renogy lithium battery and new controller. The DcDc charger will be installed soon, but realizing this isn’t an emergency. I just returned from a five night adventure in UT and had zero battery issues.  Everything on the FWC ran perfectly. Solar worked great. Battery was essentially 100% by noon. 
 

TI all the novices out there, the people on this forum know their stuff. Listen to them!!


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#54 Outnabout

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Posted 12 February 2022 - 06:21 AM

I believe I understand that if I want to go low budget I can use my existing system and switch to Lithium but it is not optimal. I should upgrade controller at minimum. Is this correct?

I have standard FWC wiring from truck to camper with Blueseas 7611. Will charging a lithium while driving with this set up damage my alternator? I like the ability I currently have to charge truck with solar while parked. Does this change with the high resting voltage of Lithium?I have a 2017 Ram 2500 diesel.
Thanks

Edited by Outnabout, 12 February 2022 - 06:28 AM.

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#55 Vic Harder

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Posted 12 February 2022 - 07:37 PM

You can just buy a lithium battery and install it. Will it be truly happy vs a system built around it? No. That said, the existing charging systems in most campers are far from ideal, which is why most batteries AGM batteries don’t last as long as they could.

If you don’t have one yet, I would get a good battery SOC monitor, like the Victron SmartShunt.

Yes, the higher resting voltage on a lithium battery will mean that your camper’s battery will keep the truck topped off by discharging itself via the 7611. Some here like that feature! I means your house battery will rarely be at 100% SOC, and again, some here like that feature!

As for your alternator, if you have not upgraded the standard 10g wiring from your truck to the camper, there is an inline 30A fuse that will potentially trip and protect the alternator. That also means you won’t get charging between them if that happens. A DCDC charger gets around that issue. If you want that DCDC to work well, it will also need fatter wires.

Take it slow on the upgrades if you need to, and if your AGM’s are dead, now is the ideal time to get into Lithium.
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#56 Outnabout

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Posted 13 February 2022 - 04:02 AM

You can just buy a lithium battery and install it. Will it be truly happy vs a system built around it? No. That said, the existing charging systems in most campers are far from ideal, which is why most batteries AGM batteries don’t last as long as they could.

If you don’t have one yet, I would get a good battery SOC monitor, like the Victron SmartShunt.

Yes, the higher resting voltage on a lithium battery will mean that your camper’s battery will keep the truck topped off by discharging itself via the 7611. Some here like that feature! I means your house battery will rarely be at 100% SOC, and again, some here like that feature!

As for your alternator, if you have not upgraded the standard 10g wiring from your truck to the camper, there is an inline 30A fuse that will potentially trip and protect the alternator. That also means you won’t get charging between them if that happens. A DCDC charger gets around that issue. If you want that DCDC to work well, it will also need fatter wires.

Take it slow on the upgrades if you need to, and if your AGM’s are dead, now is the ideal time to get into Lithium.

As always, thanks for the advice. I have seen SOK 100amp battery for around $550 US. Will Prouse gives it a good review. I might go lithium sooner than later.
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#57 mcgee

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Posted 14 February 2022 - 12:36 AM

Hello everybody.

Iv'e been thinking of upgrading to lithium. One of my questions is why is a Renogy 100 amp hr battery cost twice as much as a Zoom 100 amp hr battery and the Battleborn cost even more? Of course I have been reading the wonderful forums here and there is a lot of info out there for sure, but am a bit confused about the difference in pricing. 

I suppose you get what you pay for? Maybe the BMS is not as good of quality? Protection for cold charging? 

Thank you,

mcgee


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#58 Jon R

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Posted 14 February 2022 - 03:45 PM

There are several factors that can influence cost. Price has its own variables.

Cost factor:
Type of cell used
Source of cell
Complexity and source of battery management system
Quality and source of case
Quality of assembly (bars, wires, connections)
Where assembly is done
Warranty coverage

What have I missed?

Edited by Jon R, 14 February 2022 - 04:04 PM.

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#59 Vic Harder

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Posted 14 February 2022 - 06:30 PM

There are several factors that can influence cost. Price has its own variables.

What have I missed?

Longevity of the company. That directly affects the value of the warranty.


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#60 mcgee

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Posted 14 February 2022 - 11:47 PM

Thanks for the replies.. so I guess it's safe to assume you get what you pay for. I have a Bobcat shell with a furnace and stove, but probably will be installing some kind of 12 volt cooler. My current battery is only 55amps and seems be dying. I charge it on my 10 amp charger and it comes up to float at around 12.7 volts. After letting it set for awhile, then testing it, it is only 12.2 to 12.3 volts. Done this many times.  Need to get more power no matter what. 

Still on the shelf about upgrading or not. Should get a dc to dc charger along with the battery for starters. I suppose a dc to dc charger would be a good upgrade even with a AGM? Have the standard 10 gage wire from the starter battery to the camper. 


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