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Propex Heatsource Furnace Installation Report in FWC Eagle Shell

propex heatsource furnace installation heater installation heater furnace

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#1 Jeff Riemer

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Posted 05 March 2015 - 03:32 AM

I have added a complete report on my installation of a Propex HeatSource HS2000 heater in my FWC Eagle Shell on my website below:

 

 

http://www.performancegearresearch.com

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Furnace 123.jpg
  • truck camper 124.jpg

Edited by Jeff Riemer, 05 March 2015 - 03:37 AM.

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#2 Basin Deranged

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Posted 05 March 2015 - 03:50 AM

Very nice install!

I recently received a Propex that I will be installing soon.  The instructions which came with the heater state that the full length of the intake and exhaust tubing must be used in order for the heater to work properly.  Did you find this to be true?  I'm guessing from your pictures that you didn't use the full 750mm of metal tubing.  I would love to avoid the convoluted tube path I will have to use if I am to use the full length of tubing.


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#3 Jeff Riemer

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Posted 05 March 2015 - 04:14 AM

I struggled with that too until I realized the instructions meant that the rigid tubes that are attached to the furnace should not be shortened,  these are about 1-3/4" long.  The flexible ducting can be shortened.  Interestingly,  the instructions you download from the Propex website do not even mention the tubes or shortening them or anything,  only the paper copies that I got from the dealer mentioned them...


Edited by Jeff Riemer, 05 March 2015 - 04:16 AM.

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#4 billharr

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Posted 05 March 2015 - 04:41 PM

Nice install, like the marine vent. ? only 1/4" copper propane line. Just seems small for the low pressure. 


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#5 ski3pin

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Posted 05 March 2015 - 06:53 PM

I have added a link to this over in the Ultimate Furnace Thread

 

thanks for sharing your install!


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#6 Happyjax

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Posted 05 March 2015 - 10:07 PM

Very nice install Jeff. Thanks for the excellent pictures!


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#7 super doody

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Posted 06 March 2015 - 12:57 AM

Jeff, 

 

Nice install. Don't you have to vent the exhaust hose (brown) outside as well?

 

Jim


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#8 Jeff Riemer

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Posted 06 March 2015 - 02:08 AM

Thanks for the comments. The 1/4" line is spec'd by the manufacturer. These units are much more efficient and burn less propane than the old style suburban units so they can use a dmaller line.

Jim, the large brown line is the cold air return and it draws from inside the camper behind the furnace for now to separate the warm air outlet until I can build a panel. Combustion air inlet and exhaust are completely separate from the camper air.

Jeff
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#9 super doody

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Posted 06 March 2015 - 03:35 AM

Thanks Jeff.  Are there any other penetrations to the camper besides the inlet? I'm also building out a shell and I'm trying to decide between Propex or the standard Atwood furnace. FWC use to offer propex furnace as an option. I'm guess they went away from it due to cost. 


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#10 westyventures

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Posted 06 March 2015 - 04:28 AM

Hi, new here. I am Karl Mullendore, the US rep and importer for Propex. I like to see that folks don't have any issues with reliability of these heaters, even if they didn't buy through the US delaer network.

 

Regarding the Propex HS2000 installation manual, it states:

 

"A 0.75 metre length of 22mm flexible stainless steel tubing with a special
end cap is supplied for ducting the products of combustion away to the
edge of the vehicle. The tubes may not be shortened but can be extended
for certain applications. A 0.75m length of combustion air pipe is provided, which is also fitted with
an end cap. This should be attached to the heater with the hose clip
provided and pointed in the same direction as the flue pipe.
Note: The combustion air pipe can be terminated underneath the vehicle
making sure the end of it is at least 0.5 metres away from the end of the
exhaust and that they are not pointing directly at each other. Take care to
ensure that both pipes have a slight downward slope to prevent any
possibility of water traps. Make sure that neither the flue or the combustion
air inlet pipe are terminated in an under-floor box section."

 

The reason being that the Omron airflow sensing device senses reverberation in the inlet and burner pipes, and when they are cut shorter than the supplied length the sensor may detect uneven pulses in the burn and shut the unit down. You may get away with it at lower elevations, however at altitude we might hear you cursing the furnace because it will shut down with an airflow fault code. You may of course shorten the heat ducting to any length.

 

In regards to the Atwood vs Propex: the Atwood efficiency is 75%, resulting in an output of 9000 btu. Propex efficiency ratings are 93%, resulting in 9500 btu for the 2000 and 2211, 9700 btu for the 2800 model. FWC has not approached me for a bulk OEM supply price, they could be using a more compact and efficient furnace otherwise. :)


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Karl Mullendore

www.westyventures.com

La Pine, Oregon






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