306 replies to this topic

[billharr]

PokyBro your build is way more than "like brand new".  Your camper will be "custom hand built"   Great job. 

 

Bill

 

PS I bought the same HF crown stapler for my inside build. 

[PokyBro]

Wandering Sage, the siding on the original Grandby was attached by staples. If you look at ski3pin's build photos, you'll notice they had a staple gun out for that assembly. The staples do hold quite well, and it's a lot more efficient, and less expensive than using screws would be.


Bill, thanks for your comments, I appreciate that. You're very kind Sir!

I believe I saw your inside build as well, Bill. Great job to you!


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Edited by PokyBro, 10 November 2020 - 06:29 AM.

[PokyBro]

The next part of the build had a real hassle factor to it, the need for a solid, tight fitting door.

The original Grandby door was toast. It was so broken, it was not at all useable. Plus it was shorter than the new doorway, so the aluminum framing wasn't tall enough anyhow. The door from the Palamino salvage camper was originally designed with a hinged top portion, so you ended up with a full size, walk-through door.

So I didn't have the top pieces for the new door or the top of the door jam, as the extruded aluminum parts for the hinged door were different from the rest. That was problem #1.

I figured I could probably make something up. So I built the camper frame with the width of the Palomino doorway, since those were parts I could use (24 x 48). And thus, that was the opening that was welded up, and my permanent opening dimensions.

Problem #2 was that the bottom of the Palomino door was rotted out. So, my options were now to find another door somewhere, purchase a custom made new one, or rebuild a new door with the pieces I had. New custom doors could be in the range of $350 to $600, so that wasn't going to happen. I chose to rebuild with the parts I had.

So, in the first photo, you see the pieces I started with. In the upper part of the Palomino doorway not being used, I took pieces and ground off the surfaces I didn't need, and basically came up with close to matching pieces for the top of the door jam, and the top of the door, just not exact.

Second photo shows the aluminum channel jam pieces installed.

Third photo shows the inside and outside skin of the door, and my first configuration of the inside framing of the door.

Fourth photo is the outside skin attached to the inner frame, using contact cement, as the original was done. There were a number of dents in the aluminum I thought I had gotten out, but we're pretty obvious, so I wasn't happy with how it looked, even when painted. The square window just didn't fit either. So......I trashed this first attempt.




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Edited by PokyBro, 10 November 2020 - 06:31 AM.

[PokyBro]

Here is the outcome from spending a lot of time to get it right. I mean hours, because of the process. I made a complete new internal core frame that end up being almost a solid core door. Only a little foam insulation.

I picked up a 24" x 48" piece of aluminum sheeting from the local metal business. I found the window on eBay, but that had to be figured out too, because the door is 1" thick, but the window was 1 3/8" thick. I just mad a a spacer inside out of wood. I painted the aluminum sheeting with white Rustoleum oil based enamel paint with a spray gun. And so forth....I think you get the picture, this took some time.

I used the hinge and door handle from the original door, and had the lock re-keyed.

I am very pleased with the out come. It looks good, and is solid, tight, and should last.


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[takesiteasy]

Nice work. Your persistence paid off!

[rudhawk]

Wow - just saw this build today - I couldn't stop reading & marveling. P - I love the beadboard-always have and the black trim - it's beautiful. That is a great job on the door - then working out the window with the inside trim. I see you suffer from the same affliction I have: I've been saving this (item) 10 years  for just this occasion - "dammit Jim" I'll make it work or else.

 

Will you be putting together a cost list - what did the aluminum frame welding cost you. And when did you initially start this build?

[PokyBro]

Thanks takesiteasy and rudhawk for your comments!

Rudhawk, I will do a cost breakdown, but it may not be completely accurate. I was being very careful from the beginning to keep my costs low, and will continue. I tried to sell unneeded things I've accumulated over the years to finance as much as I could. I find you meet a lot of interesting people using craigslist. (For example, the swamp cooler in one photo was sold to a guy coming down through Wyoming on his way back to Mexico.)

I sometimes just decided to just get what you want, it's ok! The welding took about 10-12 hours by an experienced welder, but he only charged me $50/ hr, so that was I think $700, the single highest expense. I thought later maybe I should have bought my own tig welder, and sold it afterward, but also realize it would not have produced the same result.

In the end, I figure it will be mostly new throughout, and should give that impression, so it's far less than one from the factory. Nothing against factory new, just outside of my personal budget. Thanks again for checking in.


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[PokyBro]

I was going to leave the exterior siding solid white like ATCs, but on second thought, I decided I like how the FWCs look with conservative striping. The FWCs appear to have individual siding pieces of a different color for the stripes. Since I didn't have access to such materials, I chose to paint the stripes on. Here's the sequence of photos.



I used Rustoleum high performance rattle can paint, first a grey primer, then aluminum for the color. I like that it is not too bold of a color contrast, and it gives the camper a little more character, for my taste. I guess it also helps it stay close to its roots, as originally a FWC.


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Edited by PokyBro, 18 May 2016 - 04:50 AM.

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Looks very nice! Good choice on the color...

[ski3pin]

I like it!