Touring Kayakers and Canoeists?
#81
Posted 23 June 2018 - 12:01 AM
The secret is to avoid this is to always tie the bow and stern to the vehicle.
Have you considered gutter clips into the sides of the roof, using rain gutter style towers?
I am haunted by waters
#82
Posted 23 June 2018 - 01:29 AM
WS, I had not considered gutter style bars. I think the camper roof's gutters are much weaker than the typical cars (rusty Volvo's excepted).
When we have the canoe mounted to the car (Mazda 3 with factory roof rack) the holding power is from the ratchet straps. They are hefty and tight! I use the bow attachement point just to keep the nose from swinging side to side and not under much tension at all, if any.
And, I thought that I'd seen pics on this forum where the canoe on the roof of the camper had no bow or stern attachment?
2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/
Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/
Building out an electrical system - So, you want to setup a good electrical system in your camper? - Electrical, Charging, Solar, Batteries and Generators - Wander the West
#83
Posted 23 June 2018 - 01:40 AM
Regardless of what my boats are on, the bow and stern are always tied down.
I am haunted by waters
#84
Posted 23 June 2018 - 04:55 AM
hey, that does look good. I think this is the product, right?
https://www.etrailer...ion-175903.html
I'm having trouble visualizing what this would look like mounted to the camper roof, especially on the inside. Anyne have this type of clip installed and got pics to share?
Vic
Edited by Vic Harder, 23 June 2018 - 05:03 AM.
2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/
Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/
Building out an electrical system - So, you want to setup a good electrical system in your camper? - Electrical, Charging, Solar, Batteries and Generators - Wander the West
#85
Posted 23 June 2018 - 07:53 PM
We have two custom made Pygmy Wooden kayaks. They were built by a lifelong friend who unfortunately passed away 7 years ago in an auto accident.
He lived in Snohomish Washington next to Lake Roesiger. He and I used to go kayaking in the Puget sound and in local river estuaries during my annual trips up there over many years. I bought the boats from his Widow 2 years after his passing.
We have full length Yakima racks on the FWC camper as well as on my bed topper. I use Mako paddles and Hully rollers. I bought but have not yet installed a Showboat Loader for the camper.
Now that I am retired I plan to use those a lot more - probably mostly near us in Morro Bay.
Edited by ckent323, 23 June 2018 - 07:54 PM.
1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone
#86
Posted 24 June 2018 - 01:29 PM
hey, that does look good. I think this is the product, right?
https://www.etrailer...ion-175903.html
I'm having trouble visualizing what this would look like mounted to the camper roof, especially on the inside. Anyne have this type of clip installed and got pics to share?
Vic
Hello Vic
I doubt you want to mount that product directly to the camper roof....they need a fairly solid base to mount on.....
Full length Yakima tracks are mounted directly above a longitudinal roof frame.
The gutter mount brackets work fine on verticle or hoizontal mount on a canopy/truck cap.
David Graves
#87
Posted 24 June 2018 - 05:19 PM
That's what I was thinking David, but Wandering Sagebrush seems to think you can mount those receiver clips onto the roof, like you would to a truck cap/canopy.
I don't have the Yakima tracks, and have successfully mounted my 265W solar panel to the roof without them by locating each of the roof supports (easy to do when they all have screws in them - a benefit of the older roof style!) and mounting to those.
For the canoe supports, I was going to do the same, but for tie downs, I want more strength, so I was doing to put down a 2" wide aluminium flat bar horizontally, and screw/glue into the roof supports all the way accross. And then use that to attach tie downs to. No less strong than the Yakima system, I would think.
WS's solution is more elegant, but I would think I would need aluminum flats on the inside of the roof to anchor/support those little bracket/clips.
Thoughts?
2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/
Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/
Building out an electrical system - So, you want to setup a good electrical system in your camper? - Electrical, Charging, Solar, Batteries and Generators - Wander the West
#88
Posted 24 June 2018 - 05:39 PM
BTW, there are usually multiple craigslist ads for rain gutter type towers.
Apologies for orientation, I’m being lazy.
I am haunted by waters
#89
Posted 24 June 2018 - 06:46 PM
Vic, another thought if using gutter clips. Prior to Yakima and Thule towers, Quik-n-Easy was the tower that many in the canoeing community used. Aluminum, and better vertical clearance to get past a roof edge. I don't know if they are still made, but there are often ads for them in Craigslist, etc. The downside is they don't lock. I just used 2x4s for the cross bars.
Another thought, since you have a screwed down type roof is go with tracks in front and back or placed to avoid your solar panel, then get a set of Yakima or Thule landing pads, towers and bars. The shortest they make is 42", but I would make the tracks as long as possible. This is going to probably be the most expensive way to go, but you have the screw holes in the roof already, so why not?
I am haunted by waters
#90
Posted 24 June 2018 - 09:49 PM
That's what I was thinking David, but Wandering Sagebrush seems to think you can mount those receiver clips onto the roof, like you would to a truck cap/canopy.
I don't have the Yakima tracks, and have successfully mounted my 265W solar panel to the roof without them by locating each of the roof supports (easy to do when they all have screws in them - a benefit of the older roof style!) and mounting to those.
For the canoe supports, I was going to do the same, but for tie downs, I want more strength, so I was doing to put down a 2" wide aluminium flat bar horizontally, and screw/glue into the roof supports all the way accross. And then use that to attach tie downs to. No less strong than the Yakima system, I would think.
WS's solution is more elegant, but I would think I would need aluminum flats on the inside of the roof to anchor/support those little bracket/clips.
Thoughts?
Vic
If you distribute the load ACROSS the roof framing you might be fine.......
I have mounted lots of the Yakima gutter mounts on my various vehicles over the years....
The very first thing you need to know is what length cross bars (pipe) you are gonna use in order to determine placement of the mount.
Note that the Yakima towers "draw up" the length between mounts as you tighten the tower......I mention this in relation to your finding a way to secure them to your camper roof.
Another point it that the Yakima cross bars are strong but damn heavy !
On Ski3pins notion, I bought and cut heavy wall aluminum cross pipes. They are expensive but strong enough and perhaps one third the weight.
Sure you want to carry a canoe : ) ?
PS there are two height towers FWIW.
David Graves
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