Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

'81 Grandby on '91 Jeep YJ - New build

FWC Grandby Jeep Project New build

  • Please log in to reply
65 replies to this topic

#11 Beach

Beach

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 649 posts

Posted 05 December 2016 - 05:47 PM

Assuming it will be crawl/walk through?
  • 0

#12 Boonie

Boonie

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 192 posts
  • LocationBrighton, Colorado

Posted 05 December 2016 - 08:32 PM

Exactly, It saves the weight of the front wall and the pass-thru window, but sacrifices the insulating value that the wall provided. The main hoop of the Jeep roll bar is right at and frames the "walk thru". I have an idea of attaching snaps on the roll bar and making a fabric divider so if on a cold night the conduction of cold air from the cab into the camper becomes an issue. I hope to be at the point that I can start posting photos later in the week.


  • 0

#13 Boonie

Boonie

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 192 posts
  • LocationBrighton, Colorado

Posted 06 December 2016 - 02:39 AM

gallery_6696_1091_153227.jpgSince this is not a Jeep forum, I am not going into the Jeep part of the overall build. but a few details will answer some questions.

 

The Jeep Wrangler is categorized by some as a 1/4 ton vehicle. My needs are going to be in the 1/2 ton class, so upgrading the Jeep drive train was necessary. Fortunately I had access to a 350 TBI engine out of a Silverado 1500 that had a blown transmission. I had the 4L60e transmission rebuilt and adapted to the Jeep transfer case with a Novak adapter kit. The stock Jeep Dana 35 rear axle is rated at 2770 lbs., so I swapped it for a Ford 8.8 with disc brakes rated at 3800 lbs.

 

The ActionCamper is designed to fit on a longer wheelbase Wrangler JK, so I needed to increase my wheelbase by 24 inches. This was done by cutting off the original YJ 24 inches behind a datum point behind the door.


  • 0

#14 Boonie

Boonie

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 192 posts
  • LocationBrighton, Colorado

Posted 06 December 2016 - 02:46 AM

I purchased a junk YJ tub and frame, which was usable from the seats back, and cut it off 24 inches in front of the datum point giving me a 24 inch overlapping compartment formed by the old fender well / foot well.gallery_6696_1091_206584.jpg


Edited by Boonie, 06 December 2016 - 02:57 AM.

  • 0

#15 Boonie

Boonie

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 192 posts
  • LocationBrighton, Colorado

Posted 06 December 2016 - 02:59 AM

So I now have a 118" wheelbase 1/2 ton 1991 Jeep, well, more than a 1/2 ton because the Jeep body is much lighter than a conventional rated 1/2 ton.

 

I hope that this information will dispel the notion that I'm crazy, and there is no way you can put a 1981 Grandby on a 1991 Jeep.


  • 0

#16 mitch h

mitch h

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 317 posts
  • Locationbrazil,in.

Posted 06 December 2016 - 06:58 PM

Looks like good project. We built a couple rockcrawlers, jeeps are a fun vehicles for builds. 


  • 0

#17 Boonie

Boonie

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 192 posts
  • LocationBrighton, Colorado

Posted 06 December 2016 - 07:53 PM

Amen, Mitch.

 

One of the reasons I chose to build a Jeep, rather than just buy a Tacoma, was all the aftermarket products and shared experiences from guys like you that have done it before. In the Jeep world "Build it, don't buy it."

 

My hope is to carry that philosophy (and 40 years experience camping) over to the camper world to make my camper what I want, not a generic camper sold to meet the anticipated needs of the average buyer.

 

One of the other reasons was cost. As you are aware all too many jeep projects start with great ambition and great intensions only to end up on Craigslist as an uncompleted project. I bought mine for $1500. It was poorly executed, no top, no title, but had some great products making it worth the purchase price. I bought a top for $100, cut off the front half (seen in the pictures) and sold the windows and rear hatch for $100. The second Jeep tub and frame I purchased for $100 with title, I sold the title and VIN plate for $100 (I had already cleared up the title on the original Jeep) and then sold the wiring harness for $40 and the windshield frame for $20.

 

I will probably do a final cost breakdown at the end, but I am on my way to the 2% cost figure I mentioned previously.


Edited by Boonie, 06 December 2016 - 07:54 PM.

  • 0

#18 rtpvibes

rtpvibes

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 97 posts

Posted 07 December 2016 - 02:30 AM

Good luck awesome project


Sent from my iPhone using Wander The West
  • 0

#19 mitch h

mitch h

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 317 posts
  • Locationbrazil,in.

Posted 07 December 2016 - 07:03 PM

Keep us posted. We all love pictures.


  • 0

#20 Boonie

Boonie

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 192 posts
  • LocationBrighton, Colorado

Posted 07 December 2016 - 09:40 PM

Ok, with the camper sitting on blocks tall enough for the cab-over to clear the roof of the cab (actually shown in the initial picture), it will allow me to move the camper fore and aft to determine its position on the Jeep.

 

For reference the stock Jeep has 36" behind the seats to the tailgate. I have added 24", so I have 60" or 5 feet of Jeep plus a rear overhang similar to the ActionCamper to work with. I have already determined that I will be carrying a Porta-Potti. As much as it is ok for me to pee-on-the-tree as my grandkids like to do, my wife has not mastered that skill. And so as not to waste storage space and to make the P-P (pun intended) more easily accessible, I will be locating it in the rear overhang and not in a cabinet as the ActionCamper does.

 

I first positioned the camper so that the position of the original front wall was over the Jeep roll bar/behind the seats. This put only the original 23" of unsupported cab-over  to the front but left 36" rear overhang. Much too long, I would need to shorten the camper. Next I moved the camper forward so that the front on the cab-over aligned with a line of the windshield extended. This put 39 1/2 " of cab-over with only 19 1/2" rear hangover. Perfect for the 16" P-P with a little elbow room (or butt room in my case.) I would only have to address the extra unsupported cab-over. I am already anticipating narrowing the camper, which means changing from a east/west sleeping to north/south. (I'm 6'-2") The 39 1/2" outside gives me 38+" inside and with a 38" slide out, a 78" queen bed length. If you are doing the math, my inside cabin length will be 78 1/2". 40" open with the bed extended.

 

I now have the dimensions I need to build a mock up "collar" to attach the camper to the Jeep. With that I can safely mount the camper to allow me to move it side to side to determine the the width. My intention is to have a vehicle that can pass through narrows that the wheelbase track allows and nothing overhanging the sides.

 

Mitch, I will post a picture of the "collar" and the final position of the camper!  Stand by.


  • 0





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: FWC, Grandby, Jeep, Project, New build

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users