Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

external ac port install


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#11 BrianW

BrianW

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 18 posts

Posted 18 February 2017 - 10:15 PM

Tree,

Thanks for the info - 2" wall thickness sounds like a lot! (well built). I measured the thickness of the side wall at the battery box vent as best I could and it was more like 1" if memoory serves - will have to double check that for sure.

My plan is for a charger and one outlet for a portable ARB fridge/freezer. It runs on ac or 12v dc so might as well have both available while plugged in, right? After all, how hard could it be to run a single ac circuit......... (I say that knowing full well that I will find out )

Brian
  • 0

#12 tree

tree

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 151 posts
  • Locationso cal

Posted 18 February 2017 - 10:47 PM

Tree,

I realized after posting that I had hi-jacked your install thread. My apologies for that. How thick was the wall of the camper where you installed your AC port? (It's not obvious from the pic but that is on the rear wall, yes?)
My plan is for the side wall, driver's side. Theory being a nice bright yellow cable sticking out on that side would be visible getting behind the wheel or in the mirror and make it a little more difficult to drive away while plugged in. Just a theory......
I am for the moment trying to not tear the interior out any more than I have to. Would rather not pull the liner out on that side to install the port. Takes some nerve to drill a hole that size thru the unknown - nice job you did there!

Vic,
Yeah the stainless is $$$$. I have a plastic one so that will do. I like the fact that the marine receptacles are completely water tight even plugged in. A little peace of mind I guess. And yes, the issue with those is getting a solid backing immediately behind the aluminum skin to attach to....

cheers

gallery_6283_1106_23242.jpg


Edited by tree, 18 February 2017 - 10:48 PM.

  • 0

#13 Vic Harder

Vic Harder

    Doctor Electric

  • Site Team
  • 4,895 posts
  • LocationCalgary, Alberta

Posted 19 February 2017 - 12:16 AM

 Stainless is nice but you have an aluminum camper. I purchased mine from FWC when I did my build. 30 amp twist lock, plastic and can be bought under $20.00    I located my hole where the heater vent was, I moved the heater. For the heater I build a frame of 1" sq alum tube, secured everything with pop rivets. 

 

Bill,

 

I saw that pic in your thread and wondered about the source!  But that link you posted above goes to an article on lane splitting.  Have you got another link?

 

Vic


  • 0

#14 billharr

billharr

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 2,823 posts
  • LocationStockton CA

Posted 19 February 2017 - 03:43 AM

Lane splitting is a good thing. But this is the link you wanted.  http://www.etrailer....277-000137.html


  • 0

#15 BrianW

BrianW

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 18 posts

Posted 19 February 2017 - 04:21 AM

Thanks for the pic tree - definitely pushing 2". The Marinco plug has the wire exiting the rear of the inlet at a right angle (parallel to the wall surface) at about 1 1/2"..... I may not get to recycle the port after all. If the side wall is the same, that is.

B

Edited by BrianW, 19 February 2017 - 04:23 AM.

  • 0

#16 tree

tree

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 151 posts
  • Locationso cal

Posted 20 February 2017 - 04:00 PM

Thanks for the pic tree - definitely pushing 2". The Marinco plug has the wire exiting the rear of the inlet at a right angle (parallel to the wall surface) at about 1 1/2"..... I may not get to recycle the port after all. If the side wall is the same, that is.

B


noco has the wire at a sharp angle as well. had to use a 1/2 drill bit on the inside to hog out a path for the cable. and im thinking the thickness from front flange to the cable is 1 1/2 as well for the noco. after drilling a path above, the cable cleared, and I was able to get the lid on that compartment with no issues.
  • 0

#17 BrianW

BrianW

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 18 posts

Posted 22 February 2017 - 02:19 AM

tree,

Always a complication, right? Where there is a will, there is a way, I guess. That is certainly one way to get around the wall thickness. I will keep it in mind, thanks

B
  • 1

#18 tree

tree

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 151 posts
  • Locationso cal

Posted 27 February 2017 - 05:29 PM

mods so far to date, mods to come

1. onboard charger 1. rear rack
2. inverter 2. side awning
3. ac port 3. front rack with lightbar
4. 12volt port 4. rugged radio base setup
5. rear flood light 5. rv/marine stereo
6. reflectix thermal lining 6. air condition?
7. led exterior and interior lights
8. power panel
  • 0

#19 SteveK

SteveK

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 13 June 2022 - 09:17 PM

Where exactly did you drill the 2" hole?  Was it just to the right of the door?  How far from the door or from the right edge of the camper?  How far from the bottom of the camper?  My purpose is to plug in the AC to a outside source with the Noco electrical fitting.

Thanks in advance for your reply.


  • 0

#20 Vic Harder

Vic Harder

    Doctor Electric

  • Site Team
  • 4,895 posts
  • LocationCalgary, Alberta

Posted 15 June 2022 - 02:48 AM

Best bet is to pull off the inside siding and take a look at what you have to work around.  Either that or drill 1/16" holes to get a "feel" for the layout.


  • 0




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users