95 replies to this topic

[Wallowa]

Gaylon,

 

What were the "..mounting holes are the same as the old valve." tapped into aluminum or plastic or even wood?   

 

Bill D,

 

Please clarify and explain this statement:  "I'm aware that this is component that breaks rather easily if used frequently."

 

News to me but I don't carefully monitor this forum to glean that type of info.

 

Thanks for any and all info.

 

Phil

[Bill D]

Bill D,

 

Please clarify and explain this statement:  "I'm aware that this is component that breaks rather easily if used frequently."

 

News to me but I don't carefully monitor this forum to glean that type of info.

 

Thanks for any and all info.

 

Phil

 

 

Phil,

 

I only live a couple blocks away form Ramblin Man.  I know he has went through a few of them.  He was even kind enough to offer me a spare one for when mine breaks.

​It's pretty clear to see that mine WILL break fairy soon.  I've been careful with it, but it's bound to happen.  You can see when turning the "handle" that it is fatigued and bound to fail.

 

If I feel ambitious, I'll take a picture of mine and post it.

Edited by Bill D, 03 May 2017 - 11:35 PM.

[Wallowa]

Thanks Bill..does or did FWC use different designs for these drain spigots over the years?  

 

Why would Ramblin have multi failures?

 

..I will indeed keep a weather eye on the drain spigot in our '16 Hawk...

 

Phil
 

[gaylon]

Phil - I should have said the mounting holes for the new flange are the same size as the old flange/valve combo unit. On my 15 Hawk side dinette, the holes seem to be in the frame or another aluminum plate behind the camper siding.

[esimmers]

It seems the factory-installed plastic drain valve gets brittle and easily broken if exposed to lots of sunlight (UV rays). Our FWC is on the truck most of the time and in the sun (what there is of it in the Pacific Northwest). Other typical RV exterior parts, like plastic light fixtures, have the same problems. Light, cheap and sturdy; seems like you can only have two of the three at any one time.

[Bombsight]

This thread is every reason to buy spare EVERYTHING as time allows.

[Bill D]

It's not a huge concern.  If/when it breaks the spigot will still work, but you may need to use a pair of pliers to rotate it into the open/closed position.

 

I agree... It's just the nature of an inexpensive plastic component, that is exposed to the elements.  It's going to get brittle.

[Wallowa]

OK....BS...getting backup spares is a good idea but maybe it is not just about time, but money and space also..I believe in playing "what it" and being prepared but even preparation has its limits..

 

Bill...I missed it...if the spigot breaks it will still work? You mean if the handle on the spigot breaks you can still turn the valve...I was thinking the spigot failure under discussion meant the spigot itself failed/broke and not just the handle...

 

It was good to hear that the current location of FWC spigots seems to be backed by an aluminum frame to which the plate is screwed into...

[Advmoto18]

Great idea.  I have been ever so gentle opening the factory valve.  Not doubt it will fail at the most inopportune time and I will lose all my fresh water.  This is an upgrade I will make ASAP.

 

UV light is a prime enemy for plastics.  White, marine grade plastic is better, but, still not as good as stainless steel.  Brass works well in in most environs we take our campers.

 

Thanks for posting gents!

[NRVhawk]

I really appreciate the posts with the links to the parts used to replace the plastic spigot.   While I haven't had problems with mine (yet) other than the low flow rate, this part has always seemed to be uncharacteristically flimsy compared to the rest of my relatively rugged FWC camper.