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95 Alaskan Camper 10' CO roof lift weight capacity

hydraulic cylinder boat rack lift maximum lift capacity

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#1 flyboykev

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Posted 20 June 2017 - 08:05 PM

all

see attached picture.

 

I got this camper with a boat lift on top that raises and lowers your 10' aluminum boat into the lake for you. my plan is to modify the rack to be able to install 2ea Kayaks and a solar panel but keep the rack support structure in place.

 

my question is:

 

does anyone know of the maximum lifting capacity of the 95 camper using standard 1" hydraulic cylinders?

 

basically how much weight can I have on the top to raise and lower without removing my toys every time?

 

 

thanks

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#2 Rusty

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Posted 21 June 2017 - 05:37 AM

mount the panel on the camper body itself....and you will be able to mount 250# of boats over the back edge...the torsional pull from the rear is the issue...it tends to deform the cylinders in the front.  Using the Eide, the pressure is on the front of the camper when mounting...vertical weight isn't the issue...although limiting it to 250# will get the boats up and down without damaging things...

 

I've talked to Brian about this very thing and the damages caused....It's the initial lift


Edited by Rusty, 21 June 2017 - 05:38 AM.

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2003 Ford 250 Superduty Crew.... 7.3L PowerStroke diesel 1970 10" NCO Alaskan Firestone airbags pulling a 18' Silver Streak runabout


#3 flyboykev

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Posted 21 June 2017 - 06:27 PM

thanks for your response.

 

just to confirm:

 

limit boat weight to 250 pounds or less.

 

don't load / unload boat while camper top is raised due to strain on cylinders.

 

question about your statement: "vertical weight isn't the issue"

 

if I have an aluminum 250lb boat or less on this boat rack and pull into a RV spot, can I raise the camper top to camp with the boat on it or do I have to remove the boat in order to raise the camper top due to weight?

 

appreciate your help

 

Kev


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#4 Rusty

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Posted 21 June 2017 - 08:15 PM

yes...limit the boat weight to 250# or less

 

correct.....do not load the boat with the top up.....if you can, lock the top down after lowering it and before loading the boat...at least the front...that way the strain will be put on the locking mechanism rather than the cylinders

 

Straight up and down the hydraulics will carry a larger load...carefully.....raising the top with the boat on should not be a problem.  Hydraulics are the strongest form of mechanical pressure....you can lift very large things with very small hydraulic rams or jacks.  Just make sure you have good o-rings in your cylinders and you're camper is on level ground....not on level ground would apply significant torsion to the top and transfer it to the cylinders...unequally.

 

When Alaskan first mounted electric/hydraulic pumps in the campers...they had locking pins to hold the tops down while on the road.  I've seen several campers over the years with frames torn up at the corners where the pins were mistakenly left in and the pump turned on....significant hydraulic pressure

 

nice setup BTW


Edited by Rusty, 21 June 2017 - 08:20 PM.

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2003 Ford 250 Superduty Crew.... 7.3L PowerStroke diesel 1970 10" NCO Alaskan Firestone airbags pulling a 18' Silver Streak runabout


#5 flyboykev

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 04:00 PM

thanks for the advice.

 

will definitely limit the weight under 250# by using an inflatable dingy instead of an Aluminum boat.

 

I also found that if you connect house power or your generator to the camper while running the hydraulic lift, it gives it an extra boost of lifting power.

 

I installed 3 new 1" cylinders and installed new O-rings in the one by the Thetford toilet so I have good hydraulics.

Afterwards I discovered Alaskan offers larger lift cylinders. maybe later in years will upgrade.

 

here is the link to the boat lift I found if anyone is interested. Got to figure out how to use it now.

 

http://boatloader.com/howitworks.html#

 

flyboykev


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