Advanced Member
Posted 30 July 2017 - 09:34 PM
Apparently the Dometic RM 2354, 3 way is now a RM 2354 RB1F, has something to do with the cooling of the unit, and they have added 1 or 2 fans to help with the cooling. I will call the manufacturer tomorrow and get a update. I'll pass it on.
Funstini
Senior Member
Posted 31 July 2017 - 05:36 AM
Funstini. I just re-read your original post and have to agree with you about power management with all the "stuff" that the camper's electrical system must supply. I have LED lights, a water pump and a furnace that I only run long enough to get the camper comfortable and then switch to my Wave 3 heater. I have a 9 year old 55 AH Optima yellow top that I have not once check the SOC and have never run out of electricity. I do drive the truck almost everyday and the 120 amp alternator manages to do the job. KISS. That's just me
cwd
Advanced Member
Posted 31 July 2017 - 02:42 PM
Called Dometic this morning and got the information. Apparently the RM 2354 is the newest model of a 3 way, and the RB1F is just the trim, ..... rt. hinge, black panel, 1 (don't remember but nothing ground breaking) and the F is for a fan. She didn't say if the fan was for a hook up or if it had the fan installed, but was planning on remodeling the fan cooling anyway.
Funstini
Member
Posted 02 August 2017 - 06:56 PM
CWD
Your comment "how well mine works on DC.." is interesting. I have the same RM2193, yet it drains my house battery while driving in less than an hour. Unit is on an Eagle with gravity venting. Voltages all over 12V with Blue Sea Charging Relay in camper. Battery is Deep Cycle Interstate about 4 years old, but always kept charged (except when checking the 12v operation) even when parked. Have not load checked the battery, but all cells test ok. Resistance on the 115 watt heating element is within or at Dometic specs. Is there something I'm missing?
Senior Member
Posted 05 August 2017 - 06:07 PM
TDF, I don't know. That question is better answered by the more electrical astute on the forum. I used to run the fridge on propane when traveling before the upgrades to the installation and electrical system. I would think that your alternator would be able to support the extra 10 amp draw on the house battery. My house battery is connected to the truck via # 4 and # 10 wires and a 100 amp constant duty relay to a 120 amp alternator that puts out 60+ amps @ idle. I have driven 12-14 hours without issue, but I do turn the fridge off if I am going to be stopped more than 15 minutes or so. The battery is 9 years old and mounted in the truck bed forward of the passenger wheel well. The battery load checked Ok when I had the camper off in Feb.
cwd
Edited by cwdtmmrs, 06 August 2017 - 04:20 PM.
Member
Posted 06 August 2017 - 03:05 PM
CWD, hey, thanks for the input. I have not checked my alternator, but it's rated at 120A. I've load tested the battery (it's okay), checked the heater element for proper resistance, and it checks okay. At idle I get 14DCV at the fuse box (this is after the controller), but I get 13DCV after I turn on the 12V fridge. One electrical expert suggests my alternator may not be putting out enough amps. Who knows? Thanks again for your input, I'm going to build a baffle for the gas, and go with that when on the road, what the hell, live dangerously! TDF
Senior Member
Posted 06 August 2017 - 04:28 PM
TDF, It is easy enough to check how many amps your alternator is supplying with an amp meter. I think 14 volts might be a little low What gauge wires are you using to the alternator?
cwd
Member
Posted 10 August 2017 - 09:50 PM
CWD: Okay, thanks agin on the amp advice. After fruitless efforts elsewhere, took truck to mechanic, alternator is failing. Anyway, my shop only had available 80 amp altornator.. I wanted at least a 100 amp unit. Do you have any advice on a brand? (I too long trusted the alternator okay based on voltage readings, big lesson here) Thanks for the help.
tdf
Senior Member
Posted 11 August 2017 - 05:41 AM
TDF, that is kinda good news. At least it's fixable. I don't know what kind of truck you have, but high output alternators are available almost anywhere. I would put at least 120 amp unit in and maybe even higher depending on your truck's electrical needs. My 120 amp puts out a solid 60 amps @ idle. I bought it off eBay from a company called Ace Alternators in Whittier Ca. 877-903-4150. They have been there for years and are the actual rebuilders with real people to talk to. I think I paid under $120 with shipping. Hope this helps.
cwd
Member
Posted 11 August 2017 - 06:44 PM
CWD, Yup, everything you told me has helped. I got a 140 amp off of ebay. Did it before I read this, so I used a different supplier. I talked to them and all seemed reasonable, so I've got my fingers crossed. I drive a 2000 Taco with a supercharger which, according to my supplier, will use essentially the same alternator as the naturally aspirated engine--I took him at his word. Was a bit pricey at $155, but what the hell.
Looking to also add a couple of cooling fans, I see you have done this. My FWC Eagle has an open lead at the fuse box that will work for these fans, but all the ground fittings on the fuse block are taken up. I'm not sure now about how to ground. My electrical knowledge will easily fit a teaspoon with a lot of room left over., I'm sure I have some options for grounding, but clueless as to what they are. I've read most of the "venting" threads on this site, but found no simple wiring diagrams/photos.
Thanks again for all the wise directions you sent me.
tdf
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