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Manual lighting of Dometic RM 2193 fridge

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#1 daverave

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Posted 20 August 2018 - 07:44 PM

We're still dealing with assorted Dometic 3-way fridge issues, too numerous to list here. However one of the most frustrating and vexing issues is getting the propane flame lit using the electric starter. Really since day one it has always taken many, many attempts to get the flame lit using the starter. I can count on one hand the number of times we have pulled into a campsite and had the flame light the first time. (As opposed to the electric start on every BBQ I have ever used... which is first time, every time.)

 

We have learned for whatever reason that it helps to wait at least 15 minutes before trying, maybe the propane has to "settle." I limit myself to 6-7 attempts to spark it with the starter, then wait 10-15 minutes before trying again. Sometimes it will take 25-30 attempts before it finally lights over the course of an hour. Needless to say the stuff (beer!) in the fridge is getting warmer that whole time especially in the California heat and/or desert. 

 

On my OEM install there is a perforated screen at the bottom of the vent stack where the flame is. I assume the screen is for wind purposes. Behind that screen I've noticed that there is a 3/4" or so port with a swinging door. Would I be able to use a long neck lighter through there to bypass the electric starter and start the flame with a flame? (That would require cutting a small hole in the windscreen but easy.) Would the fridge object to being lit in this fashion? 

 

Any solution would help reduce my Dometic hate by an amount proportional to how much cooler the adult beverages will be coming out of the fridge. We have chosen not to drive with the flame lit and we would rather not replace the fridge with superior alternatives quite yet.

 

Thanks!

daverave


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#2 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 20 August 2018 - 09:11 PM

One thing you might try.When you light the the fridge for the first time is to start the heater ,that will draw the propane and air out of the line and might make it easier to light.

 

I have had some of your issues with the starter trying to get it lit the first time of use.

Have you cleaned the burner area?

It looks like a "hash" pipe.If you remove some of the shrouding and get to the burner

a small brush would clean any carbon at the burner area.

 

You might be able to get a BBQ lighter through the little hole,that's there to see the flame.

Worth a try.

Hope this helps.

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#3 daverave

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Posted 20 August 2018 - 09:57 PM

We usually use the stove to draw the propane and air out of the line when we first start on a trip. Same idea as the heater. 

 

I've got the burner area somewhat disassembled and it is fairly clean given the amount of dirt and desert driving we do.  Compared to the youtube videos I watched our's is relatively pristine. I will say that once we get the flame lit, the color has always looked like the proper clear blue. Does the "hash pipe" (good thing I'm a child of the 70s;-) have to fill with propane for ignition? It is larger than I expected. Maybe we're not waiting for the pipe to fill before sparking.

 

The Dometic documentation is woefully lacking in detailed explanation of the disassemby/reassembly process... there is a diagram with all of the parts lettered but the process description skips right from part "C" (the screw) to part "K" (the gas pipe union.)

 

I don't think my problem is the gas flow or a dirty burner jet, it seems to be the piezo spark (but just guessing.)

 

On a semi-related maintenance note, do folks actually clean the flue tube and baffle as regular maintenance? The docs mention that it is necessary to remove the fridge to do so.

 

One thing you might try.When you light the the fridge for the first time is to start the heater ,that will draw the propane and air

out of the line and might make it easier to light.

I have had some of your issues with the starter trying to get it lit the first time of use.

Have you cleaned the burner area.

It looks like a "hash" pipe.If you remove some of the shrouding and get to the burner

a small brush would clean any carbon at the burner area.

You might be able to get a BBQ lighter through the little hole,that's there to see the flame.

Worth a try.

Hope this helps.

Frank


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#4 kmcintyre

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Posted 20 August 2018 - 10:27 PM

We usually use the stove to draw the propane and air out of the line when we first start on a trip. Same idea as the heater. 

 

I've got the burner area somewhat disassembled and it is fairly clean given the amount of dirt and desert driving we do.  Compared to the youtube videos I watched our's is relatively pristine. I will say that once we get the flame lit, the color has always looked like the proper clear blue. Does the "hash pipe" (good thing I'm a child of the 70s;-) have to fill with propane for ignition? It is larger than I expected. Maybe we're not waiting for the pipe to fill before sparking.

 

The Dometic documentation is woefully lacking in detailed explanation of the disassemby/reassembly process... there is a diagram with all of the parts lettered but the process description skips right from part "C" (the screw) to part "K" (the gas pipe union.)

 

I don't think my problem is the gas flow or a dirty burner jet, it seems to be the piezo spark (but just guessing.)

 

On a semi-related maintenance note, do folks actually clean the flue tube and baffle as regular maintenance? The docs mention that it is necessary to remove the fridge to do so.

I don't remove the furnace and do regular maint. but when I "remodeled" my Eagle and took out the cabinets, etc. I pulled the furnace and went through it all (cleaning, jets, etc.).


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#5 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 20 August 2018 - 10:39 PM

If everything looks clean maybe it's the piezo spark.

If you can get a view of the actual spark area wait until dark and see how much spark you get.

Maybe the piezo is bad or not in good contact.

Sometimes mine takes a lot of pushes on the piezo to get it lighted,

but that is usually on first start up.

 

If you remove the little shroud ,the one with the little round door,

that would give you a look at the end of the piezo push the button and see what happens.

Frank


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#6 CougarCouple

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Posted 20 August 2018 - 11:41 PM

Hello Daverave
Ther is usually a manufacturer specific distance between the ignition tip and the ground. Search your Dometic model number and see if you can't find that info. Also the grounding is important all screws should be tight. Hope this helps, you could also call manufacturer ask for tech support and run your problem, just ask for several items you can check for proper propane ignition. Hope this helps.
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#7 daverave

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 03:51 PM

Maybe everyone else is aware of this but it was news to us:

 

My wife had some correspondence with Dometic and one of their suggestions was to always turn the propane tank valve on very slowly to eliminate/reduce the chance of air bubbles interfering with the lighting of the fridge. We just completed a month-long trip to Montana and back and followed this practice and not once did we have the frustration of not getting the fridge pilot lit. It mostly ignited on the first or second attempt if I turned the propane tank valve to "ON" over the course of a minute or so.

 

That particular fridge frustration problem has been solved for us!


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#8 klahanie

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 05:54 PM

^ interesting, thanks for posting that. We often have the same problem with the same model fridge, only an older version. Air mixed in from driving could explain why it occurs only sometimes.

 

fwiw we do use a long BBQ lighter, as described in the OP, as a back up. And keep one in the fridge outside access hatch for this sole  purpose. Come to think of it it doesn't always light instantly with this method, which could be because the root problem is still present.

 

Anyway a long lighter it can work as a alternative if the piezo is not co operating. Just be sure to use a lighter that holds a continuous flame and insert in the round hole while burning, then press down on the propane supply knob. The idea is to avoid pooling of gas before introducing the flame. Otherwise the risk is a mini explosion in the the vent stack !


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#9 knoxswift

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 09:47 PM

I have a RM2193 with this EXACT issue.

Here is how I resolved my issue.

1. replace the manual piezo spark clicker with a BBQ AAA or AA batter type.

 

https://www.amazon.c...rds=bbq sparker

 

FYI The Piezo grounds to the ThermoCouple

Also you don't need to change out the high voltage wire or Electrode if they are in good shape.

 

2. Check and/or replace the electrode

If they are cracked they will spark in the wrong direction.

 

3. Replace the ThermoCouple.

This is what will turn OFF the flame if it's not hot enough (Safety). I found that mine rubbed through the copper because it was leaning up against the burner box causing a sort or sometimes no short making lighting the fridge a guessing game.

However, these also go bad over time or become dirty enough that they don't generate the signal to allow the valve to send propane or if really dirty the spark will go to a different ground and not allow to light the pilot. Or take too long to heat up so you think you lit the fridge but the sensor is not hot enough so it turns out the flame on you when you release the bypass button.

 

BTW.

Yes the mesh is for wind protection, you can remove it.

Yes you can light the fridge with a lighter until you can fix the problem. IF it's not the Thermocouple. If it IS the thermocouple you'll still have trouble keeping the fridge lit until it gets hot enough to allow the valve to work. (Which is easier to do when you use a lighter as it heats it up compared to the sparker...)


Edited by knoxswift, 16 October 2018 - 10:05 PM.

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