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Adding solar to "pre-wired" camper.

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#11 FoxenTec

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Posted 09 October 2018 - 03:49 AM

On a side note but somewhat related.......I had some questions about my Overland Solar controller that I knew Overland could answer.  They suggested possibly pulling power to the controller to help me troubleshoot but I first wanted to talk to FWC and find out what settings they input into the controller/display when first installed.  I spoke with FWC and they said they do not put any settings into the MPPT controller, it is just set at the default.   

 

Thank you,

Jon


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Jon

 

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#12 Vic Harder

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Posted 09 October 2018 - 05:12 PM

I spoke with FWC and they said they do not put any settings into the MPPT controller, it is just set at the default.   

 

That's interesting.  Not bad, necessarily.  The defaults could be perfect for some situations.


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#13 Karlton

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 08:02 PM

This post might have some helpful suggestions.  There is some work to be done, but it is readily achievable.  I didn't have much experience with wiring or solar, and have a nice system going thanks to some reading and feedback of experienced members on the forum.

 

http://www.wanderthe...very-2017-hawk/


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#14 drewdown

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 03:26 AM

The thing in the picture is not actually a connector, it is a Wago junction block (like a fancy wire nut). It doesn't plug into any charge controller - just joins the two sets of wires from the roof top and wall solar connectors to a third set of wires which you would attach to the screw terminals on your solar controller.

So in short there is no 'plug and play' solar controller - they are all about the same work to install. A good choice would be the Victron Smart MPPT controllers:
https://shop.pkys.co...ooth_c_806.html

They are easy to configure through the iOS/Android App, no need for a display and lots of folks on here have them so you can usually find the answers you may need on WtW.



Thank you. This is exactly what I was hoping to find out. Sorry for the delay in posting. I just got back from a 1700 mile trip. Camped somewhere new every night and never dropped below 12.4v according to my cheap 12v plug in monitor. This is with one standard deep cycle battery from fwc. I’m just confused how adding solar has the potential to mess up my battery. I have a friend that lives off grid full time and made solar seem much less intimidating
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#15 pvstoy

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Posted 20 October 2018 - 12:57 AM

Thank you. This is exactly what I was hoping to find out. Sorry for the delay in posting. I just got back from a 1700 mile trip. Camped somewhere new every night and never dropped below 12.4v according to my cheap 12v plug in monitor. This is with one standard deep cycle battery from fwc. I’m just confused how adding solar has the potential to mess up my battery. I have a friend that lives off grid full time and made solar seem much less intimidating



Have not been able to get back to you as was traveling in Africa.......

I'm glad you got out there and tried your system and your driving was able to keep battery charged, to what level you can't be sure.

But your next step in understanding your system and usage would be a battery monitor. This is really the only way to know how many amps you used and how many went back in when you drove to the next campsite. Your 12 volt plug-in monitor will only give you the current voltage... a value that has no history, just a current value. It can miss lead you as to what condition the battery is in.

I have been using the Victron BM-712, it is just one of the models they have, but it is more money and well spent for the convince of the blue tooth easy set up with I-pad or smart phone.

Those wires you posted the picture are two sets of wires pairs is from both solar plug on the outside of the camper. The third pair runs to the battery box.

Solar does not have to be intimidating. If you decide to add solar then you can make it simple and leave those wires in the Wago connect block connected.

Add panel to roof.

Add a Victron smart MPPT controller next to the battery. Attach the wires to the controller and add a pair from the controller output to the battery. The controller being with the battery allows the controller to sense the battery temperature and adjust the charging profile accordingly.

Here is the only tricky part you will need to understand and verify. The roof and side wall SAE plug in could be wired reversed. Meaning the older factory Zap controllers were backwards. If you find your model is wired that way then you could just note them in the battery box and switch the wires going to the controller, but clearly mark them because you will have the red wire (positive) attached to the negative port of the controller and that can get confusing later in life.

Another option if you have the space for storage is a portable solar. Some come with a controller and some don't. Mount the controller as above and just plug a bare panel in. Panels with a controller just attach the wires in the battery box to the battery and allow the panel controller do it's job.

Either system CHECK AND VERIFY THE POLARITY FOR POSITIVE WIRES IN YOUR SYSTEM!!! And use the proper protection in fuses and breakers in your system.

Added last comment.... There are little details not mentioned as this is a overview of the bigger components in the solar system. As you have more questions the Wander The West pool of people can give you answers and guidance.

Edited by pvstoy, 20 October 2018 - 02:06 PM.

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Patrick

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