29 replies to this topic

[Vic Harder]

There's some sort of "system monitor"  with lights and a pair of switches (one toggles on and off while one is just essentially a push-button) built into the cabinets. The faceplate decal is gone, so I don't know what this was ever for. I can kind of deduce from where the wires go. For instance, one switch is clearly for the water pump. Can I successfully eliminate this or ignore it, you think? Or ignore most of it, maybe keeping the water pump switch in line. 

Pictures help!  That sounds like the factory battery and water level indicators.  They were of marginal use to begin with.

[JediahPorter]

After a wicked stormy February (read; tons of skiing, no camper projects...) and a busy March, I've renewed my renovation efforts. Spent the day yesterday catching up, with the help of my dad and another handy friend. 

 

Finished up the truck battery to house battery connection. I rerouted and cut short the heavy gauge wire and installed the Keyline isolator. As best I can tell, all is working properly. The house battery gets juice when the truck is running, and the truck battery didn't drain overnight. 

 

Up to now I've used the Dometic refrigerator just as a cooler, with ice blocks for cooling. Basic efforts months ago to run it on propane and 12v were fruitless. To make visibility and access for the Propex heater install I pulled out the fridge. As an afterthought I plugged it into shore power in the garage. Seems like it works in that capacity. What are the chances that propane-powered cooling will work? Does my successful 110 experiment tell me anything about the on-the-go function of the fridge? 

 

When I pulled the fridge I found that FWC had included a "T" in the propane line and wiring for a furnace. Must be heat was an option on this 1999 Hawk? In any case, that makes life a little easier. Did some shelving, drilling, and wire routing for the Propex power supply, thermostat, ducting, air intake, and exhaust. I'm hung up, currently, on the propane plumbing. I think I have everything I need except a "reducer" to go from the existing 3/8" plumbing and hardware to the 1/4" required by the Propex. I've got a trial part on order from Amazon, and have scouts out looking at stores further afield. I found this site helpful in my Propex installation. https://faroutride.com/propex-install/

 

I'm putting the Propex into the externally-accessed, drivers-side-rear storage compartment. Attached photo is a view of it sitting temporarily in its home, as viewed from inside the camper. I'll lose some of that storage space and will lose the external access (Propex intake/exhaust is bolted to the compartment door. Advice for reinforcing the super thin aluminum skin of that door to support the hoses and exhaust/intake fitting?) I'll box in the Propex (with proper clearances etc) and end up with a little bit of space leftover for storage at ground level, accessed from inside . 

 

 

 

[Vic Harder]

I love my Propex!  That said, I am worried about your install as it sits now, especially the intake/exhaust lines which look like they exit the camper very close together.  I thought Propex specified a separation distance between the two?  Also, it looks like those lines exit above the heater, which would allow condensation to pool in the lines.  You want them to have at least a gradual down-slope, even better would be straight down and out the bottom of the camper.  

 

As for that reducer you are looking for, didn't your Propex come with one?  

 

Here is my install thread.

http://www.wanderthe...ter-tank-lines/

[JediahPorter]

I love my Propex!  That said, I am worried about your install as it sits now, especially the intake/exhaust lines which look like they exit the camper very close together.  I thought Propex specified a separation distance between the two?  Also, it looks like those lines exit above the heater, which would allow condensation to pool in the lines.  You want them to have at least a gradual down-slope, even better would be straight down and out the bottom of the camper.  

 

As for that reducer you are looking for, didn't your Propex come with one?  

 

Here is my install thread.

http://www.wanderthe...ter-tank-lines/

 

 

Interesting observation on the intake/exhaust. First, they meet the camper wall in a Propex-approved fitting that nests the two lines at a prescribed separation. The whole thing can be moved down and the hoses can spiral down to it, if need be. But I don't have room for a straight-shot gentle drain. I sent the same picture and an inquiry to Karl at WestyVentures. 

 

I found a solution to make the 3/8 to 1/4 reduction. 

 

It's all hooked up and works. Just need to close it in and fine tune the intake/exhaust if need be. 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Also welcome to the Cult.Thanks for sharing your "new" camper build.

Glad to hear Marty at ATC was able to help you.

They are great people to work with.They built us a 2009 Bobcat

that we have had a great many adventures with.

Fun seeing your pictures and questions/answers.

Frank

[JediahPorter]

Plugging away... With more questions. 

 

First, on that aforementioned "system monitor"... I've gathered more info. One switch turns on and off the power to the water pump. The other "switch" prompts the "tests" that light up the LED banks. But, with the decal gone, I don't know what the lights are supposed to mean. Who can tell me what the camper is telling me in the attached photo?

 

Also, the water pump: I put water in the tank (actually, refilled the tank. Despite my earlier assurances to the peanut gallery that I wasn't dumb enough to leave water in the tank through the winter, I did exactly that... Not only am I dumb enough to leave water in the tank, I'm cocky enough to brag about how dumb I am not. Confident incompetence. The good news is that nothing seems to have exploded. Surely, those few gallons froze solid in the weeks of single digit temps through mid winter...), put a fuse in the appropriate place, switched on the photographed switch (another LED lights up red when the water pump switch is on... what does that mean?), ensured electric is getting to the pump, and turned the sink faucet on and off. Nothing happens. What am I missing? Some sort of priming procedure? Likely that the pump is shot? In trying to pull the water pump out, I broke the inbound plastic nipple. So it likely needs replacing anyway.

 

What should I replace it with? Specifically, or in general terms? There are piles of "12v water pumps" on the internet. The one I just broke is labeled as "Nameco Model 12-026". That doesn't show up on the web. Neither ATC nor FWC identify, on their sites, what pump they currently use. I like how tiny the current one is. I've seen this one recommended elsewhere. Will it "plug and play" where the old one is? In terms of plumbing and wiring? 

 

What about a hand pump faucet? Silly idea? 

 

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[JediahPorter]

Also, I re-routed the intake and exhaust as per Vic Harder's recommendation. I haven't yet heard back from Karl at Westy Ventures, but it was an easy-enough fix that I just did it anyway. Certainly can't hurt. 

 

Also also, the fridge works. At least, it works on propane and 110. I haven't tried it on 12v yet. It's a Dometic three-way. My dad is visiting and he has one of these in his camper, so he helped me get it going. Pretty straight-forward. What he doesn't know about is propane and battery consumption rates. What can I expect, running it on each of these, respectively? Any other pitfalls or strategies he might not have relayed? i know there's something about keeping it level. What's that all about? How level is "level"? Does it matter only when the fridge is running, or all the time? 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

My rule of thumb... if you can get it within half a bubble, the fridge runs fine. Your propane usage will be slight, however... on DC it’s going to march through your battery like Sherman on the way to the sea. I only use DC when driving. I switch to propane if stopped for more than 10 minutes.

What I’ve been told... Level helps the ammonia flow through through the tubing.

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

My experience with our RV 3-way has lead me to run ours on propane only. Even plugged into 110 nothing beats the cooling on propane. Take some compressed air and blow out the orifice and surrounding area. Spiders love to nest in there. If you shut off the propane at the bottle between trips it’ll take a bit for the propane to reach the orifice so be patient. Not sure about gas usage since our bottle is YUGE but it can’t be much. Wandering Sagebrush is on the money...mostly level is fine. This keeps the “boiling ammonia” from pooling in low spots. My motto: run it until it won’t run anymore. Then replace.

[JediahPorter]

More progress, some answers, and more questions... 

 

We launch on a week-long work and play trip to Moab on Monday of this week. Ironing out the little things and getting others "good enough". 

 

I ordered this water pump from Amazon. Figured that it was worth a try for $12. Seems to do the job. Simple little thing. The faucet on/off doesn't seem to work. When the pump is running, water comes out of the faucet whether the knob is forward or back. Which is better than the alternative. We'll just turn the faucet on and off with the water pump switch. 

 

The $12 pump came with two unlabeled wires sticking out of it. I just guessed. Couldn't tell you now which colors they are and which I hooked to which. Similarly, the water fittings aren't labeled. Is that just what I get for $12? Or are both omissions related? Like, if I hooked it up to electric one way would water go left to right and then reverse the wiring (polarity?) and it goes right to left? Doesn't matter, as I seem to have gotten lucky. 

 

I've got an outlet wired into the fuse box. One dual usb plug and one 12v socket. Seems to work. Just have to mount it into the plywood cabinet. 

 

I know Vic Harder's answer to this next question ("get the Trimetric 2013 Monitor"), but I'm curious as to what my other options are. Mainly, what are my cheaper options? Now, hopefully my ignorance is clear... I don't know jack. Am I right in deducing that voltage out of the battery, under some sort of load, can serve as a proxy for state of charge? Like, I can watch the voltage and use the attached chart (or do I need a chart specific to my battery? Specific to the type of battery? Size of battery? Specific to the phase of the moon?) to keep from totally screwing up my battery? 

 

Lastly, for now, tell me about safety sensors. There's propane sensors, smoke detectors, CO detectors, and something really cool I don't even know about. What do I need to keep from waking up dead? I ain't afraid to live on the edge a little bit. I'm sick of dumping money in this thing, for now. And I'm also sick of giving up space... 

 

Speaking of, anyone mount a roof rack on their truck cab in front of the cabover? Any clever ways of cantilevering a rack out a little? Like a storage visor?