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Solar Install on Bobcat, Need Help.


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#11 Rob in MT

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 03:01 PM

Well, it does work using the wire installed by ATC and grounding the panel to the roof.

 

I was only grounding the panel, using the grounding hole on the panel itself. When I used the negative wire it works fine. I can ground to the roof rack. Run a wire from the controller negative slot for the panel to the front camper window.

 

I haven't done a final install because I'm deciding how to install it. It seems running the wires from the panel direct to the controller seems much more appropriate, while doing all that grounding seems kind of hokey. I'm sure there was a reason for doing it that way.

 

Thanks for your assistance, it helped immensely.


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#12 rando

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 04:49 PM

Double check that the controller goes into float charge at the end of a cycle and measure the float voltage.   This is where the issue with the ground bypass of the control will cause issues.    During bulk charge a  PWM controller is not actually doing anything, so you won't be able to tell if it is working properly. 


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#13 Rob in MT

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 10:54 PM

I finally got around to doing the tentative final install.

 

Rather than drill a hole in the roof, I though I would try the ATC one wire method, grounding the panel to the roof and the controller to the truck body, which according to the controller lights looks like it's working. The charging light only comes on when I run the ground from the controller to the body.

 

However, when I hook up the load wires to the battery (on top of or below the + and - from the controller), the isolator clicks on and off every 30 seconds or so. And the charging light goes on without running the ground from the controller to the body. That doesn't seem right.

 

Now that I have this all hooked up, I'd at least to try to see if it will work, any ideas?

 

Or just do the two wire method?

 

Thanks for your help.


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#14 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 11:01 PM

I finally got around to doing the tentative final install.

 

Rather than drill a hole in the roof, I though I would try the ATC one wire method, grounding the panel to the roof and the controller to the truck body, which according to the controller lights looks like it's working. The charging light only comes on when I run the ground from the controller to the body.

 

However, when I hook up the load wires to the battery (on top of or below the + and - from the controller), the isolator clicks on and off every 30 seconds or so. And the charging light goes on without running the ground from the controller to the body. That doesn't seem right.

 

Now that I have this all hooked up, I'd at least to try to see if it will work, any ideas?

 

Or just do the two wire method?

 

Thanks for your help.

IMO I would use the two wire method.

But that's just me thinking it is better.

Drilling a hole in the roof isn't a big deal.

I used a 5/8 bit then a piece of plastic tubing.

Pushed the tubing through the hole sealed it with

a good quality sealant.

Run the wires through the tubing and seal them also.

So far after 8 years no leaks.

Frank


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#15 Rob in MT

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Posted 03 February 2019 - 12:46 AM

I think you are right about two wires.

 

When poking through the ceiling, do you run the tubing through the ceiling fabric? How do you keep the ceiling fabric from tearing more over time? I was thinking of running clear super tape on either side of the hole. Just cut a hole in the fabric?


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#16 jimjxsn

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Posted 03 February 2019 - 11:13 PM

I am also planning to do the through the roof wiring on my Panther as I did not order it with the solar wiring option...

 

Here is Ski's description on adding wiring through the roof and hiding it behind the front lift panel.

 

As far as reinforcing the headliner, I used clear Tear-Aid repair tape to mend my old FWC headliner.  It seemed to work fine and may be an option to reinforce the fabric hole.


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#17 5outta6

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Posted 08 May 2019 - 02:15 PM

What size battery, type and brand battery are you running with your solar system?


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#18 Vic Harder

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Posted 08 May 2019 - 04:58 PM

What size battery, type and brand battery are you running with your solar system?

It really varies.  Most folks are running with AGM 12v batteries in the 80-120AH range.  Some have LiFePo batteries, some have flooded leaded acid types (those need to be vented for sure!)  I run dual 6v AGM 250AH Rolls brand batteries.


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#19 Kodachrome

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Posted 28 May 2019 - 02:51 PM

However, when I hook up the load wires to the battery (on top of or below the + and - from the controller), the isolator clicks on and off every 30 seconds or so.

 

And all this time I thought I had a wonky isolator.

 

Since my Bobcat is in "Drydock" for the next couple months I will investigate this and make sure my roof wiring is right. I have no issues drilling holes, my cell booster antenna required it.


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#20 5outta6

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Posted 31 August 2019 - 10:22 PM

I have a solar question:   I have an ATC  installed 160w solar panel.  My voltage out of the battery is in the 15-17 v range when not under draw. 

 

I have run my ARB frig for 3 days and the voltage meter reads 16.1 volts.....way high for a 12v AGM battery, I think.

 

 input to the controller is  15.39 v    and the output is 15.38 v...

 

these are the specs from the CMTP02 controller manual....

 

Is this output within the safe range. 

equalization 14.8

bulk               14.8

acceptance    14.2  pwm

flotat               13.8

charge reconnect 13.0

discharge stop      11.2

discharge reconnect   12.6

 

This is the second controller and I'm haviing similar problems.

 

I have checked the voltage on the controller w/ 2 different meters which have given me the same voltage reading.

 

I don't want to 'cook' my battery ......

 

is my voltage off the battery high?

 

any ideas?

 

(note: I have read the solar page info and just get more confused....)   


Edited by 5outta6, 31 August 2019 - 10:23 PM.

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