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Another Turnbuckle Fiasco Averted ....FWC facebook page

Turnbuckles open ended aluminum

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#31 rubberlegs

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Posted 26 January 2019 - 06:14 PM

I just received a Torklift S9012 Hook to Hook Turnbuckle from Amazon as a spare turnbuckle. It came with two jam nuts. But the Fleet arrived with no jam nuts. I'm surprised FWC doesn't supply jam nuts, at the very least. Hmmm.


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#32 wandern

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Posted 26 January 2019 - 07:03 PM

How do you like the Torklift turnbuckles?
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#33 JHanson

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Posted 26 January 2019 - 07:20 PM

 

 

The aluminum turnbuckles were rated for 300-350 pounds each and a set of four exceed the DOT regulations for the various FWC camper weights the last time I checked.  

 

But that camper weight is static. That changes massively once the vehicle (that is, the camper) is moving, braking, bouncing, etc. I've owned two FWCs and had experience with many more. It's a fantastic product but the supplied turnbuckles are inadequate, period.


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#34 wildlife2019

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Posted 26 January 2019 - 09:06 PM

Assuming their is enough room to access the turnbuckles, and where jam nuts are not available, maybe safety wiring them would ease one's mind?


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#35 rubberlegs

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Posted 26 January 2019 - 09:07 PM

How do you like the Torklift turnbuckles?

Someone else will have to comment. I just got one from Amazon and have never used it. It's steel per a magnet test. I learned of them on this website somewhere.


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#36 klahanie

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Posted 26 January 2019 - 10:56 PM

- Just want to point out that in the pic posted earlier of the forged turnbuckle, the nuts on the jaw bolt looks to be a Nyloc type - not a bad idea IMO, considering it would be subject to vibration.

 

- wildlife2019, yes a safety wire should work. In fact I've read that recommended instead of a locknut in some rigging manuals because,

"Lock nuts can significantly increase the stress imposed upon the threads"

 

source eg: pg 36, https://www.energy.g...undamentals.pdf

 

- I can see how this could happen with an AL body turnbuckle, esp with a ham fisted or overly concerned owner. Perhaps this is why FWC does not supply (?). Tho I have no idea how much they  think about all this... And, again I haven't had it cause a failure (yet) with my OE hardware.

 

--

Posted by Josh41

 

...and, while taking my camper off today I just found my second broken eyebolt.  Uhg, getting frustrated with this thing.  All I can think is that the angle of pull is too great.  I have read that eyebolts are meant to only be pulled vertical or inline with the threaded post, mine are at quite and angle.  I just watched a FWC video that says you must have an angle in two directions, in the case of the front eyebolts, they say it should pull back to the camper and from the side.  

Maybe this system has a flaw in it???

Back to the drawing board for me.

 

 

Frustrating indeed ! Haven't read about broken eyebolts (or eyenuts) before. You are correct that angular loads reduce the rating. See description on pg 28 in the PDF linked above.

 

Adopting the thrust of this thread (as I read it) you'd go stronger but I agree there may be something to questioning the geometry of your set up. Again, something close to vertical hold down seems to me the best angle. But, obviously, that won't be possible in all applications.

 

- iowahiker, good posts. Sounds like a smart set up that's working for you. I agree the hooks, warts and all, might be the best and easiest "weakest link" to repair or replace, if need be. I remember some posts of eyenuts having been pulled thru - not much fun on a road trip.

 

One thing about the "flex frame", I don't know about trucks - I might have said the opposite - but FWC has always promoted this as a positive of their design. I'm not seeing the same concept carried through to the tie down system tho, so I use a bed mat for cushion.

 

- Finally, further to my earlier post, looks like FWC has changed the camper attachment points under the wings, no longer eyenuts. Again, I wonder if contact stress with the hook could cause the hook to be levered open. But prob not a jaw end.

FWC Frame_s.jpg

 

- Good discussion. May not be of value to the majority who've had no issues. But for those with concerns, it's simple food for thought. :)


Edited by klahanie, 26 January 2019 - 11:00 PM.

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#37 craig333

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Posted 26 January 2019 - 11:42 PM

Lets not forget from earlier discussions, there will be a point of failure if you hit a big enough bump. If its not the turnbuckle then its the bed or the camper itself. I've had the camper failure (bolt pulls out of the wood, if only photobucket hadn't stolen my pics I'd repost) but keeping in mind FWC noted those failures and in newer campers they are reinforced (not sure what year they put the plates in). 

 

Most times it a single turnbuckle failure (leading to more failures if it isn't caught promptly) and those are certainly cheaper and easier to fix than the camper itself. 

 

Just wanted to toss that point of view out there. Myself, I'm still not sure where I stand. Sometimes I lean one way sometimes another. I do carry extra turnbuckles. 


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#38 Vic Harder

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Posted 27 January 2019 - 02:09 AM

How do you like the Torklift turnbuckles?

I use these, and they are trouble free

https://www.torklift...erringer-handle


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#39 hebegebe

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Posted 27 January 2019 - 04:38 PM

Do you use these in same position as stock location?
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#40 fish more

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Posted 27 January 2019 - 07:07 PM

Go with the Torklift Derringers, I threw away the turnbuckles the first month I owned my Hawk in 2009. Have never had a failure with the Derringers, or them coming loose with camper on full time on my F150 or now on my Super Duty F250. After you adjust them to each position, lock them down, install the lock pins and forget about having any problems with anything coming loose. Would never go back to turnbuckles. Like Vic states "trouble free"


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