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Replace, Upgrade, or Repair Norcold Fridge/Freezer?

Refrigerator Six-Pac T100S Tacoma Advice

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#21 klahanie

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 01:19 AM

Thx for the follow up.
Do you have another LPG regulator to try ?
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#22 foakes

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 01:44 AM

No, this one is brand new — because I wanted to eliminate this first — it is set for 11 WC — but I did not check it myself. Got it from a local RV store. Are they adjustable?

Best,

Fred
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#23 klahanie

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 02:09 AM

Some. The newer adj type I've seen are obvious, with a large knob. But the one in my camper has a screw cap above the diaphragm. Unscrewing that cap reveals a large adj screw (I assume that's what it's for).

 

I think many of the cheapies have a complete metal body with no provision for adjustment.

 

It was just an idea - I had one once that was flaky. But seems you're ahead of me.

 

Hope you solve it soon !

 

EDIT

 

 

This one sorta like my camper:s-l300.jpg


Edited by klahanie, 25 April 2019 - 02:13 AM.

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#24 ntsqd

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 03:12 AM

If you have or can find a gauge to plumb into the gas supply downstream of the regulator you could determine pretty fast if its the regulator or not. At 11" WC you could almost gauge it with a manometer, but I'd worry about the gas bubbling thru the liquid. Maybe you can figure out a gauge isolator so it can't?


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#25 Old Crow

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 01:25 PM

Sorry to see it's fighting you, Fred.

 

Does it do the same thing on the old regulator?

 

I don't think I'd mess with adjusting the new regulator without a measurement.  I guess you could keep track of exactly how much you adjust the screw but that could be easy to lose track of if you're not careful.  If the fridge does the same flame-out thing on the old regulator, I'd try adjusting that one before I'd mess with the new one. 

 

Offhand, it seems very odd that you would get a strong blue flame and then the shut-down on a regulator issue.  I can't envision what would be happening in the regulator.

 

I don't know how the thermocouple is mounted but can its position be adjusted in the flame?

 

Also-  what voltage reading are you seeing across the terminals of the interrupter?

 

(Click to enlarge)

 

NorcoldTroubleShootingPage10.jpg


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#26 foakes

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 03:24 PM

I will check the new thermocouple again.

Seems like there are only two positions — all of the way into the holder, and directly in the flame — or pulled out a bit.

And I will check the M-Volts across the interrupter again.

With all that has been done, and replaced — it certainly seems like the Thermocoupler is giving a signal to the interrupter that causes the flame to go out.

Probably something simple that I am missing.

Thanks, Gentlemen — need to get to the bottom of this...

Best,

Fred
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#27 ntsqd

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Posted 26 April 2019 - 02:50 AM

OH!!!

 

Change the propane tank and try it again. We once had the OPD valve or whatever it's called in the tank do EXACTLY that to us. I jumped in the tow'd and bailed out to Mal-Wart. Bought another tank and we were back in business.


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#28 foakes

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Posted 26 April 2019 - 05:16 AM

Unfortunately, ntsqd — did that already — no change — still flames out.

We live in a remote area of the mountains, and receive shipment of LP about twice a year for our home — stove, oven, water heater, whole house furnace, dryer, automatic stand by generator.

So I always make sure we have (4) extra 5 gallon tanks full when they deliver, plus the 5 gallon horizontal camper tank. These are for the BBQ & Shop heater. Norcold Guy still has not responded to 2 emails and 2 phone calls over the last 3 days. Guess all they want to do is sell parts at twice the price of obtaining the exact same Norcold parts on Amazon. Do not have time for questions or answers, I guess.

Live and learn.

Thanks! You guys have been great in trying to help.

Best,

Fred
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#29 cwdtmmrs

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Posted 26 April 2019 - 06:11 AM

I would pull the thermocouple out of the flame and heat it with a separate heat source like a propane torch or one of those mini butane torches. If it stays on then you know the fridge flame is not keeping it hot enough.

 

PS. I just read the entire thread again and you don't mention if you have any other LP appliances in the camper. If so, do they function ok? In No, do you a stove or a heater that you could temporarily hook up to your stove line? 

 

It is almost acting like a car with a clogged fuel filter or kinked line.Is the copper line kinked or restricted anywhere? If you disconnect it from the stove, does it seem like enough gas comes out when you turn the tank on?


Edited by cwdtmmrs, 26 April 2019 - 06:28 AM.

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#30 Old Crow

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Posted 26 April 2019 - 01:11 PM

Fred, if you've not run through the troubleshooting chart in the N300 LP Mode Troubleshooting Service Bulletin, I'd give it a shot.

 

Note that you'll need to keep the gas safety valve pressed in to maintain flame during the tests.

 

You know, come to think of it, I wonder if pressing that gas safety valve wouldn't be useful in determining whether the problem is a gas or electric-based problem.   If holding that valve open is how you keep the flame lit during testing and that flame does indeed stay lit while the various voltage tests are done, then it's probably not the tank, regulator, gas line, gas quality, etc causing the flameout.

 

.


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