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Building a camper


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#11 chnlisle

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 08:25 PM

Well said Mtn-high.....I am one of those folks with less $ to play with.

Paul


http://cheaprvliving...rOwnCamper.html

http://www.vintagepr...PopUpCamper.pdf

http://www.jeepbbs.n...ead.php?t=12155
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#12 marty

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 09:18 PM

plug in type kitchens will not work. The propain systems can not have any quick release type fittings and the propain compartments must exit the walls completly. these ideas you all have posted today and i am sure in the future will not go unread and i thank you for such a rapid input. it will help us to figure out the camper that should built.
Have a great day.
Marty
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#13 Phird05

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 10:31 PM

http://cheaprvliving...rOwnCamper.html

http://www.vintagepr...PopUpCamper.pdf

http://www.jeepbbs.n...ead.php?t=12155


Awesome.....I'm on my way to put to pick up the materials! I'll let you know how it's going.

Paul
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#14 Phird05

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 10:38 PM

Awesome.....I'm on my way to put to pick up the materials! I'll let you know how it's going.

Paul


Just kidding. I don't have the countless hours that would take. Not to mention, the expertise, at least I don't think I do. :o

Paul
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#15 mtn-high

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 10:44 PM

Whew..you had me scared for a second there.

In this instance, I believe the saying "You get what you pay for" comes into play full-force!

That, and "black gold...texas tea..." LOL
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#16 EdoHart

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Posted 20 March 2009 - 03:26 AM

I would like a beefed up rear wall with either pre-installed mounting points for things like jerry can and spare tire carriers or a drawing showing where someone could drill and mount those things. I realize, the door would cause some restrictions. A parallelogram design which would swing the carrier and the door in the same motion would be cool.

Or, an integrated lift assist device and integrated roof top rack, so that one could put extra gear on top and be able to easily raise the top with the extra stuff still there.
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#17 georgem

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Posted 20 March 2009 - 05:27 AM

Marty,

I know this is high on the PITA scale, but since I began looking at these campers, I always wondered if it's too much of nightmare to to move the sink and stove down to where the refrigerator is now, and then move the refrigerator to the opposite side of the camper...I know this means running gas lines. electrical. etc., but then that opens more room up toward the front of camper and could even have facing seats....
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#18 marty

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Posted 20 March 2009 - 03:45 PM

George,
My concern with building a two sided cabinet model is that it would be much more costly to build and add about 100 or so more pounds to the dry weight of the camper behind the axel. This is a good idea and we have been trying to figure out the weight problems for a long time. I would like to be able to build a front dinette. I am contimplating getting some light gauge steel tubing and building a proto type. I would like to see if a light gauge steel frame could flex and hold together long enough to become something worthey of building. My thought here is simple. everybody can work on a light gauge steel frame. and if it is not too heavy to build i could offer a stripped down shell version for the home builder. still in the thought mode. have a nice day.
Marty
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#19 Sportsman Matt

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Posted 20 March 2009 - 03:49 PM

I've been out shopping for a newer camper, mainly because my current one is over 20 years old. Biggest things I list as criteria are:

1) cassette toilet or porta potty with space around it to actually be able to use it.

2) refrigerator, no ice box

3) at least a 2 burner stove

4) heater

5) must sleep 3 adults 6' tall and or 2 adults 6' and 3 kids 4' to 5' tall

6) lower price and options, I see way too many $10,000 to $20,000 price tags and with it comes stuff I really don't want, like the hot water tank, air conditioner, fancy woodwork, carpeted areas that don't need to be carpeted like the step areas and under the dinette. I like the idea of modular, buy a shell for $5000-6000, then add the stuff as you can afford it or need it. Some guys may not need a heater, or air conditioner, or the stove, or a sink. Making it more optionable may be a way to go.

An Ideal camper would be to me...

Shell unit with windows, bed over cab with matress, convertable dinette bed, jacks to install it, 12v led lights, and a lp tank storage. Then offer as an option the stove with cabinet, sink with cabinet, refrigerator with cabinet, toilet option (either built in or porta potty), heater, air conditioner, etc. Make it so that the person can order the basic unit, then call up and say "I need the sink and stove combo" and either have it as a screw in you do it installation or dealer installation, or a "factory upgrade" where it has to come in for install.
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#20 dsrtrat

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Posted 20 March 2009 - 04:44 PM

Good Questions Marty,

I think a lot of people expect too much from a product that is designed for off road and light weight. The trend seems to keep adding options to make the camper different from its intended purpose. I guess it depends on what you are marketing, utility or luxury.

I view my Panther as a movable tent with a few extra creature comforts.

I for one like the full size seat in my Panther. I use it to catch a nap without having to raise the top while on the road.

I replaced the factory table with two pull out tables. I raised the drawer and reduced its depth to get the space above the water tank for the sliders.
The other one went under the sink and I added a shelf in the area to increase the storage. Not ideal but saves space. If redesigning is could be made cleaner. Heavier duty drawer sliders would be nice the stock ones are pretty weak.

I would like to see the water tank moved to the front to change the weight distribution and provide a step up to the bed. Turnbuckle access might be an issue.

I would like to see an Engle fridge option that would mount low enough that the lid could be opened while the top was down. I ended up mounting my Engel 45qt in the truck cab because I couldn't find a place for it without taking out the water tank. I just couldn't get the three way to work with the way I park. Hard to find level spots in the backcountry without a lot of effort. Maybe offer a 12V 1.8 cf option in place of the 3 way.

I agree about beefing up the back wall if possible for accessories. Might be a structual problem there though. Too much weight for frame.

Screws instead of staples for the batten strips and panels.

Rigid insulation instead of fiberglass. Fabric in headliner could be something easier to clean.

I replaced the stock curtain rods with a simpler parachute cord system and the websnap retainers with velcro.

Front lift panel rod retainer too weak I replaced mine with a velcro strap.

I moved the front lift point to the rear 5" so I had a straight up lift.

Some of this may have been addressed as my Panther was #4.

I think you have a great product well designed for the purpose. Suits my camping style.

Had I not bought my camper used I would most likely gone with a shell model and built a minimal interior, though the heater and stove have come in handy, I really don't use the sink and water tank all that much.

Dsrtrat
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