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Solar Wiring - No Factory Controller

solar wiring

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#11 Charlie

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Posted 31 May 2019 - 11:21 PM

Here's the wiring diagram for my install. It was very straight forward. By installing the charge controller in the battery compartment, I didn't have to cut any of the FWC wires at all, and putting the gauges in their cutout was also very convenient.

 

It seems that the SAE jacks that are installed in the Hawk might have the polarity backwards. I found that the pigtails that FWC provided had the pigtail wire marked positive connected to the black inside wire, and the same for the negative pigtail to the red wire. It's just something to check if you use the FWC SAE pigtails.

 

 

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Edited by Charlie, 02 June 2019 - 03:44 AM.

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#12 grandby49

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 04:47 PM

Crarlie, how did you make those solar panels? part numbers for materials?


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#13 Vic Harder

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Posted 27 September 2020 - 11:56 PM

The way I read it, Charlie didn't make the solar panels, he made the "solar panel assemblies"   Meaning he took the 160 Renogy panels he mentioned and made them more rigid "using flexible panels attached to double sided polycarbonate and some bits of aluminum."


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#14 Charlie

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Posted 28 September 2020 - 01:27 AM

That’s right. I used the Renogy flexible panels, which weigh 4lbs each, and just other common materials.

 

I cut out pieces of double thickness polycarbonate (an architectural glazing material, trade name Polygal, and other names) to the same width as the panels, and a little longer.

 

I taped the panels to the polycarbonate with VLB tape.

 

I taped ~1/16” x 3/4” aluminum stock at the ends of the polygal, to provide a ridged clamping structure. Holes were drilled through the Al and polygal, to attach to the mounts. 
 

Added 1/2” aluminum channels on either side of the panels, sandwiching the panel and the polygal together. Used bolts to secure either end of the channels to the end strips. At first I had just press fit them on, thinking that was good enough. When one of them came off while in motion and slid down my windshield, I realized I needed the bolts. The channels were an afterthought; I just don’t want to trust the VLB tape entirely. 

 

The mounts are aluminum Z stock. Bolts go through the Al strips and polygal into the Z stock. The bottom of the Z stock is bolted into the Yakima tracks using common weld nuts. 
 

It seems kind of over-engineered. Many installations just have the panels glued or screwed right on to the roof. I didn’t want to do either. This was all in the name of getting the weight down. Maybe I coulda just used regular panels, and got beefier gas struts?
 

Note that I have had both of the flexible solar panels fail, but Renogy replaced them without question, under warranty. I think there were some production issues. The new ones are a little different. With my design, it wasn’t too hard to replace them. 


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#15 Vic Harder

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Posted 28 September 2020 - 02:29 AM

It seems kind of over-engineered. Many installations just have the panels glued or screwed right on to the roof. I didn’t want to do either. This was all in the name of getting the weight down. Maybe I coulda just used regular panels, and got beefier gas struts?

I have a residential/commercial 330W panel on the roof of my PUMA.  80# lift struts.  These are too much at the rear (only thing up there in the back is 2 sand/snow tracks) and just a touch too much at the front.  They are perfect when the 40# canoe is up there too.


Edited by Vic Harder, 28 September 2020 - 02:29 AM.

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#16 Jack

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Posted 28 September 2020 - 02:41 AM

Charlie, do you have photos?

 

I've upgraded everything else, but I'm still looking for a good solution for semi-flexible panels. The current 160 W Zamp panel runs about 35 lb. I plan to replace it with 3 flexible panels but don't want the weight to be much more than 35 lb. We have front and back fans and the FWC 1"x3" bar rack, so fit is a bit tricky.


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#17 Charlie

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Posted 28 September 2020 - 03:52 AM

There are photos on the previous page of this thread. Are you looking for additional ones? I could post some more if there is anything else that you would like to see.


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#18 Will.I.Am

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Posted 08 November 2020 - 07:09 AM

Hi Charlie - I really like your solar assembly.  We just bought two Renogy 175's and are looking at mounting them similarly.  Curious what thickness your z-channel is.  I've only been able to find 1/16" which seems a little flimsy.  Also, did you purchase your poly online somewhere? Last thing...we're looking for a new truck to pair with our 2005 Hawk.  How do you like your Tundra?  Care to share year, trim, etc?  I'm assuming that's a 6.5' bed?

 

Thanks!


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#19 ntsqd

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Posted 09 November 2020 - 01:45 PM

One thing to keep in mind is that current PV cells work better when their backside is cooler than their exposed side. With flexible panels whatever they are attached to wants to be a heat sink or at least a good thermal conductor. Not to say that they won't work if attached that is a poor thermal conductor, just that they'll work better if it is a good thermal conductor.


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#20 Karlton

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Posted 11 November 2020 - 04:27 AM

I had posted a similar question and solution a while back, but my photo links died. However, my wiring cartoon doesn't compare to Charlie's illustration, so I'll skip reposting.  However, here is a photo of how I mounted the solar panel to the Yakima tracks.  This is not a flexible panel, but illustrates the concept of getting the panel off the roof to allow for cooling.  

 

 

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Edited by Karlton, 11 November 2020 - 04:40 AM.

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