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Vic's new 2012 Puma build


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#111 pvstoy

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 05:02 PM

Is there another fastener that can be used?  The metal staple that is attached into the aluminum frame transfers the cold straight to the inside and ices up.


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#112 Vic Harder

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 05:07 PM

Thanks for the idea rando.  I bought some 1/8" foam, based on a comment in one of the threads I linked. It sees ATC uses this now on the rails themselves.  

 

I had thought of buying 4' wide reflectix and installing that over the whole surface, taping to keep the vapor barrier intact.  I see no value in allowing warm/wet air to flow into the insulation.  My house has a vapor barrier, so why not the camper?

 

I like that the Aerogel is flame proof.  I see it is hydrophobic... is it also non-porous?  How would you seal the edges together?  

 

Hadn't thought of ensolite either.  Hmm... sound barrier too.

 

Good ideas for sure!


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#113 rando

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 05:27 PM

The aerogel is porous -  it is glass fiber batting impregnated with aerogel particles.   Honestly it is not really a reasonable solution, given that it would be right next to the uninsulated soft walls, but it is fun to dream. 

 

Ensolite would probably work pretty well.   It is a cheap way to get closed cell foam with a sticky back.   It would work as a conductive barrier, a moisture barrier and it is easy to apply and available in multiple thicknesses.    

 

Refltectix is probably not the right stuff for this application.   It is primarily a radiative barrier, and needs to have an air space on at least one side to work.  It won't do much sandwiched between the headliner and roof, unless you want to leave it exposed.  I am not sure a silver bubble wrap ceiling will compliment your beautiful wood work. 


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#114 Vic Harder

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 05:47 PM

No air space?  I was thinking the reflectix would go over the rigid foam, between that and the cloth headliner.  Lots of reflective air space in the camper.  


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#115 rando

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 05:49 PM

If you cover it in a cloth headliner, then it is no longer reflective.......


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#116 Vic Harder

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 06:20 PM

If you cover it in a cloth headliner, then it is no longer reflective.......

Doh.... I had assumed the headliner would be "transparent" to reflective radiation.  Hmmm.  


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#117 rando

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 07:24 PM

It depends on the cloth and wavelength.   But generally speaking, the cloth will absorb some/most of the IR radiation and warm up - at which point the heat transmission is conductive, not radiant.    The general advice is that you need at least a few cm of air between a radiant barrier and the nearest surface for it to work.   

 

This point seems to be lost on a lot of folks - one of the pop-up manufacturers (can't remember who) was putting a radiative barrier inside their soft walls for an 'arctic option', which clearly would not work. 


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#118 Vic Harder

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 04:41 AM

OK, so before tackling the install of a new headliner/patch, I have to straighten the roof.  Previous owner claimed the roof "popped up on its own" while driving down the highway.  Uh huh.  Probably forgot to do the front latches, or tried lifting it without undoing the side latch.  Many folks here have been there!

 

First things first, removing the 330w solar panel

gotta remove the 330w solar panel first

 

OK, so I laid a 2x4 down on the area to assess the bend.... it doesn't look so bad

bend looks localized

 

Until you get the bigger picture

until you see the bigger picture
 
As Bill Harr famously said here That will buff out.  :blink: 

 

I tried the Bill's method to straighten the roof,

 

bills method
 

but didn't have a C-Clamp big enough

Trying the Bill Harr Method

 

Then I tried radarcontact's method,

radar method
 

and couldn't get the roof to budge, even with bouncing on the roof with my 200 pounds.

 

So then I tried Vic's method.  A stack of leveling blocks, a 2x4 and some towels to prevent damaging the interior finish or headliner. 

Vic's Method
 
Right way up... thanks for the laugh Paul!
Vic's method, right way up

 

 

I wedged the 2x4 in tight, and then applied my weight strategically (as in the radarcontact method) to bend the roof.  I had to reposition the 2x4 a number of times to gradually bend out the roof evenly.

 

Final result

Final result
 
This was a technically easy, but surprisingly physical job.  I was huffing pretty good, running into the camper, repositioning the 2x4, running back out, up the ladder, and humping my weight onto the roof to get to to flex, all while trying not to fear the worst... torn headliner or roof material.

Edited by Vic Harder, 02 April 2020 - 06:03 PM.

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#119 PaulT

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 03:16 PM

So, on first look at Vic’s method, I had a serious mental physics disorientation on the nature of natural forces near Calgary. Then I thought you wet the towel and left it draped over an upright 2x4 overnight in an unheated garage before use.Then I suspected you had access to some seriously powerful laundry starch. Finally, I realized that that image was to be viewed while using the Teeter Inversion machine.   :D

Seriously, this “Hunker Down at Home” social isolation may result in the loss of my sense of reality.

 

The results of Vic’s method look like the did the trick. 
Stay safe 

Paul

 


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#120 PokyBro

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 03:32 PM

Vic,

 

if you need any fine tuning, I’m thinking you could try a bar clamp on both sides of the bend, with your board spaced in between, might be worth a try. That would give you the clamping distance you need and is fully adjustable, and should provide needed force to bend aluminum square tubing, ever so slightly, without overdoing.

 

Poky


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