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Vic's new 2012 Puma build


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#121 Vic Harder

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 06:06 PM

Vic,

 

if you need any fine tuning, I’m thinking you could try a bar clamp on both sides of the bend, with your board spaced in between, might be worth a try. That would give you the clamping distance you need and is fully adjustable, and should provide needed force to bend aluminum square tubing, ever so slightly, without overdoing.

 

Poky

Thanks Poky.  I think where it needs tweeking a bit is in the actual sheet metal.  The tubing is now straight.  The very slight kink is in that area right at the frame where the round horizontal tube joins the side.   If you have seen the roof apart, you might know of what bits I speak.    It is much better now than it was, for sure.

 

I did manage to get a piece of 1/2" plywood in between the rooftop and that round tube, which straightened it a lot.  Is it in concours condition?   :lol:   No.  But the side liner is now much less slack than it was.

 

Regarding the side liner.... I notice that new FWC have almost rigid looking side liners when the roof is up.  Very different than the older models.  How are they doing this?  Can the side liner and/or lifting panels be adjusted to lift higher, thus eliminating slack?


Edited by Vic Harder, 02 April 2020 - 06:15 PM.

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2006 Silverado 3500 ext cab 8' bed LBZ

2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/

Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/

 


#122 PokyBro

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 10:17 PM

I think the new material they use for sideliners is just different, and possibly stiffer , and or different thickness or weight. I haven’t seen it in person, but I too have noticed it doesn’t sag as much. I don’t think there is a way to adjust slack, other than when you first install. I know on mine there is slack in the middle of each side, and that is because of the bend in the roof itself with the weight and pull of the fabric along the sides causing flexing of the metal frame.

 

Also it might be possible the side liner material may shrink slightly over time, certainly did on the old original 80’s FWCs.

 

Anyhow, just my thoughts.


Edited by PokyBro, 02 April 2020 - 10:38 PM.

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#123 rando

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 11:11 PM

The newer FWC sideliner is a heavy reinforced vinyl (like the material rafts are made out of).  I am not sure how they get it so tight at install, but there is no user adjustment.    


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#124 Vic Harder

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 12:44 AM

OK, more progress.  Turnbuckle doors.  I wanted a better, more elegant solution than the thin sliders my campers have come with, and not use hinges like the current FWC style since those need "room" to open.  Neither solution would work with my front turnbuckle doors, as they are obstructed by my over-large 30 gal water tank.

 

So, I discovered that a 1/2" Z-bar can be put to use for this purpose.  I used extra Z-bars from my Propex install, and bought a few more from a vendor.  Here is what I am talking about:

Z-bar

 

I used my table saw (router would make a cleaner cut for sure!) to shave off a midge to get a good snug fit:

Cut to depth with table saw
 
This is how if snugs up:
Fit
 
Installed, they look like this from the inside.  I used T-nuts again to provide good clamping force, and allow for multiple removals without stripping out the wood like a wood screw would do
drivers rear from inside

 

And here is a view from the outside.  I've already cut 1/2" think rigid fiberglass to fill the gap, for added insulation as well as ease in reintalling.
outside

 

 

 


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2006 Silverado 3500 ext cab 8' bed LBZ

2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/

Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/

 


#125 Bill D

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 04:34 AM

Way better than the ultra thin sliders that you had before!  They were very cheap.

Why would there have been an issue the doors taking room when open, if you had used a traditional hinge?  

 

The reason I ask is I open my doors frequently for ventilation.  I added a mesh screen (like many others) to keep the bugs out.  My unit has an overhang from the kitchen cabinets, so they are never really "in the way" when open.

 

Curious...


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#126 Vic Harder

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 05:06 AM



Way better than the ultra thin sliders that you had before!  They were very cheap.

Why would there have been an issue the doors taking room when open, if you had used a traditional hinge?  

 

The reason I ask is I open my doors frequently for ventilation.  I added a mesh screen (like many others) to keep the bugs out.  My unit has an overhang from the kitchen cabinets, so they are never really "in the way" when open.

 

Curious...

Bill, check out this pic... 

battery shelf

 

The 5" wide, 13" long spaces on either side of the water tank are the places I have to get my hands into to fasten the turnbuckles.  With the FasGun Derringers, that's doable.  Not sure I could do it with regular turnbuckles.  Having a door in the way would make it worse.

 

Plus, these are screwed down tight.  No air leakage at all.  I will make one turnbuckle door with screen on it so I can swap that out when I want/need to ventilate.


Edited by Vic Harder, 03 April 2020 - 05:11 AM.

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2006 Silverado 3500 ext cab 8' bed LBZ

2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/

Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/

 


#127 Bill D

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 05:19 AM

I see.  You'd have to Anderson Cooper arms otherwise.  :)


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#128 Vic Harder

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Posted Today, 10:49 PM

Question for those who have built/re-built their ceiling/roof.  I notice that the very outside long edges of the camper ceiling do NOT have a wooden strip on them like all the others do.  And that the resting area that this edge would be on when the top is down is foam/fleece lined.  This is obviously to protect the sideliner material.  

 

Would there be any reason to not put a strip on that outside edge?  Gap, abrasion, fit?  


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2006 Silverado 3500 ext cab 8' bed LBZ

2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/

Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/

 





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