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Vic's new 2012 Puma build


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#191 Vic Harder

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Posted 12 June 2020 - 03:53 AM

Vic,doesn't look like you have a roof rack.

When I carried my 12' Old Towne I attached it to

the roof rack with ratchet straps.

I did make some "channel stops" to fit over the

frame bars of the rack.

They acted to keep the canoe from moving side to side.

 

My system worked great.Traveled thousands of miles

with no issues even in cross winds.

Frank

 

attachicon.gifDSCN3073.jpeg

 

attachicon.gifDSCN3070.jpeg

 

attachicon.gifDSCN3071.jpeg

 

Vic found photos of my setup.

You could add a bar front and rear

to hold the canoe.

 

The track down the middle is for the small wheel

on the front of the canoe.Keeps it from sliding off

the side when loading/unloading.

 

My 2 solar panels sit on each side on the rear section of the rack.

Frank,  thanks for that.  Actually, there is a roof rack up there.  Super low profile, 1" square alum bars attached to the T-slot tracks.  I have 4 T-slots running the length of the roof, so the 1" bars are on there pretty sturdily!

 

Curious about your shaped gunwale cradles.  How did you make those?    I think my canoe will be resting almost on the alum roof rack, with the exception of some left over 1/4" vinyl flooring glued to the racks to keep the alum/alum contact to a minimum.  

 

I was also thinking of having some L-channel at the front that would limit/guide forward travel of the canoe.

 

Regarding ratchet straps, I have heard that these are not advisable for canoes, as you can put TOO much pressure on the hull.  That said, I have used them before!

 

It looks like I can use ratchet straps from the roof racks to the carrying handles at each end of the canoe... those are sturdy and would also limit front/back travel at each end.  

 

Stay tuned, and keep the ideas coming!


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#192 Taku

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Posted 12 June 2020 - 11:54 AM

We have not used bow ties for years. Two straps over the boat and a cam strap from one of the cross bars to a thwart. No problems and rarely needs tightening even in windy conditions.


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#193 PaulT

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Posted 12 June 2020 - 05:18 PM

Curious about your shaped gunwale cradles.  How did you make those?    I think my canoe will be resting almost on the alum roof rack, with the exception of some left over 1/4" vinyl flooring glued to the racks to keep the alum/alum contact to a minimum.  

 

Vic,

Consider using UHMW tape to perform the aluminum separation. That stuff is slick, very tough, lasts a long time for the sliding surfaces. We laid UHMW down in steel channels on the log intake in sawmills. Heavy chain ran over the UHMW  in the channels with large logs on the chains to carry them into the mill. 

https://www.mcmaster...yethylene-tape/

 

Paul


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#194 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 12 June 2020 - 06:11 PM

Vic,the cradles are made from some aluminum channel. They are 2 piece, nest in each other.The lower one just slides over the 1" roof bar.The cradles support the gunwales of the canoe.

 

With the gunwales snug on the cradles the straps snug the canoe down.There doesn't seem to be any downward pressure to distort the canoe. Just a nice snug fit.

 

My canoe seems to have a greater"bow" to it then yours, so the need for the extra cradle height in the rear.

 

The cradles in front are stops also so the canoe slides up to them and stops. If need be I have a short piece of chain up front that is a safety chain. If something comes loose at least the canoe won't flop off the camper. Never had any problems. You should be able to use your 1" roof tubes to secure the canoe. Frank

 

DSCN3146.jpeg

 

Vic you can see the straps attach right over the channel supports.

The strap hooks then attach to the 1" roof tube.

 

Oh and yes that cafe is the one from the TV show Twin Peaks.


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#195 Vic Harder

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 02:34 AM

Frank, yes indeed, this canoe has very little rocker and the prow and stern do not rise up much to catch wind. I like the idea of the ratchet straps simply going into the tube ends.

 

Paul, thanks for the Teflon tape idea!  I will use that!


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#196 Vic Harder

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 02:40 AM

Onto another - window water leak - issue.  I've seam sealed the vinyl wherever there was stitching.  Some of the needle holes are big enough to see light through, so no wonder water got through there.  Good news is, that even using a garden hose on sharp spray, the stitching no longer leaks.

 

Marty had recommended VLP, I found Gear Aid Seam Grip WP easier to find, and Marty approved.  Two tubes did the whole top.

 

Bad news is, there seems to be a design flaw.  Water goes through the bug mesh, hits the clear vinyl, and run to the bottom of the window.  It then flows along that bottom edge to one end or the other (or both if the camper is dead level) and runs inside then runs inside the window.  

 

gallery_6362_1323_3550798.jpg
 
Ideas?

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#197 takesiteasy

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 02:54 AM

There are storm flaps that attach to the velcro on the outside to cover the windows in driving rain. We remove them in nice weather. Some have turned them into little awnings and leave them on all the time. If you don't have them I'm sure you can get them from ATC.

 

Here's one thread on them- there are others.

 

https://www.wanderth...flap#entry70895


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#198 Vic Harder

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 04:56 AM

There are storm flaps that attach to the velcro on the outside to cover the windows in driving rain. We remove them in nice weather. Some have turned them into little awnings and leave them on all the time. If you don't have them I'm sure you can get them from ATC.

 

Here's one thread on them- there are others.

 

https://www.wanderth...flap#entry70895

We have those.  Super hard to reach without a ladder.  Just really confused, because my Hawk did NOT leak at all, and that's without sealing the seams.


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#199 rando

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 02:44 PM

We looked at an ATC Bobcat before getting our Fleet, and I wondered about the window design, I am not sure why ATC does it that way.  It seems very inconvenient to have to open/close the storm flaps from the outside and the upward facing edge appeared to form a gutter.   On the FWC soft windows there are no upward facing seams/edges and like your hawk we have never seam sealed ours and it has never leaked.  

 

This may just make a total mess, but is there anyway you could glue that edge to the window behind it to eliminate the gutter?   Or glue the bottom centimeter or two of the window flap to the walls so when it does fill up it at least overflows on the outside?  Or possibly take a soldering iron and melt some small holes in that flap, so the water would tend to drain out on the outside?

 

After how much effort you have put into this, I can see these little things being particularly annoying.


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#200 Wandering Sagebrush

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 03:15 PM

I did not have leak issues with the windows on my Bobcat.   


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