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Upgrading Wiring to Charge Camper Batteries From Truck?


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#1 So Cal Adventurer

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 12:07 PM

Hey All

I know its been done before, but anyone have any good writeups or links on how to upgrade the 10 gauge wiring from the camper to the plug for the alternator?

I have 2 gauge from my truck up to where my FWC plug connects.

I'm looking into upgrading the wiring from the isolator in the camper, to the plug, and to the camper batteries so i get maximum charging when driving.

I'm sure its been done before. I opened it all up and got in there, but couldnt get a good read on what goes where without really digging into it and removing some things.

I have a 2018 Hawk.

Thanks

Edited by So Cal Adventurer, 23 August 2019 - 12:48 PM.

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#2 Oilbrnr

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 02:31 PM

On my '17 Hawk, it is just the black and white 10 AWG wires coming in from the front to the Blue Sea and neg term of the battery or ground block (can't remember exactly) that would need to be upgraded. 2 AWG is pretty beefy stuff and probably overkill.

 

You can use an Andersen connecter in leu of the Attwood trolling motor connector.

 

Better to use this RedArc BCDC isolator which will compensate for the voltage drop and properly handle bulk, absorb and float level profiles of AGM or LiPo's than your trucks charging system will.


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#3 Vic Harder

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 05:07 PM

add in a couple of breakers at each end i use blue sea 285 series 100a in mine
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#4 craig333

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 11:14 PM

Definitely need a couple fuses at least. Not that any of these DC-DC chargers aren't nice but unless you're planning on charging solely from the truck, I don't see them being necessary. The way I look at it, on the rare (hasn't happened yet) times solar isn't enough, I'll just the need truck for a bulk charge, figuring soon enough the solar will come back into play and finish it off. If the weather is that bad that it doesn't happen then I need head for home :)


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#5 So Cal Adventurer

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 12:45 AM

Thanks.

Fuses will be added for sure.

I’m more looking for a good schematic, of the FWC wiring if anyone happens to have one. 2018 Hawk front dinette.

I’m not really sold on those DC to DC things honestly...

I use a POWER GATE isolator (not well known, but made here in SD and used extensively by the military and in aviation) I’ve used them approximately 15 years with AGMs and had flawless results.

You can read about them here:

www.http://perfectswitch.com/

I think the pricey DC to DC things are a marketing thing.

A good isolator does the exact same thing. Lots of cheap isolators are on the market and don’t do more than connect the batteries.

I can’t see the benefit of them for a Toyota and how Toyota alternators function.

Thanks for the input. I’ll keep hunting for a schematic

Edited by So Cal Adventurer, 23 August 2019 - 12:46 AM.

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#6 So Cal Adventurer

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 12:48 AM

2 AWG is pretty beefy stuff and probably overkill

You can use an Andersen connecter in leu of the Attwood trolling motor connector.


Yeah, I have lots of 2 gauge lying around from previous dual batt installs for friends.

Anderson connector is a damn good idea.

Thanks
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#7 ntsqd

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 02:30 AM

I prefer the 285 Series breakers to fuses. Makes for an easy pair of disconnect switches in addition to protecting those cables. Does make that circuit a bit less tolerant of momentary over-currents, but at those current levels I'm OK with that.


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#8 Oilbrnr

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 03:56 AM

Thanks.

Fuses will be added for sure.

I’m more looking for a good schematic, of the FWC wiring if anyone happens to have one. 2018 Hawk front dinette.

I’m not really sold on those DC to DC things honestly...

I use a POWER GATE isolator (not well known, but made here in SD and used extensively by the military and in aviation) I’ve used them approximately 15 years with AGMs and had flawless results.

You can read about them here:

www.http://perfectswitch.com/

I think the pricey DC to DC things are a marketing thing.

A good isolator does the exact same thing. Lots of cheap isolators are on the market and don’t do more than connect the batteries.

I can’t see the benefit of them for a Toyota and how Toyota alternators function.

Thanks for the input. I’ll keep hunting for a schematic

 

So directly connecting two dissimilar battery types, at different stages of their lives, with charging system designed primary for bulk is the way to go.


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#9 larryqp

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 12:02 PM

So directly connecting two dissimilar battery types, at different stages of their lives, with charging system designed primary for bulk is the way to go.

 

This thread has wandered a bit, sort of, but electric system is so intertwined.

 

I'm trying to get a handle on all this especially since I am literally starting from the beginning again. My conclusion was that without a DC to DC charger and having a flooded lead engine battery and an AGM house battery bank:

 

1- There might be a slight delay in charging the house batteries if they were extremely low, but my thought was on a long driving day that would be moot.

2- Most alternators wouldn't be able to "top off" the AGM batteries, but one could "finish" them off with solar as long as it was sunny.

3- There is the inherit problem  of having dissimilar batteries connected together

4- There is the inherit problem of having batteries of different ages.

 

Given the cost of a DC to DC charger, and the fact that I plan to have 200 watts of solar on the roof and 200 aHr of AGM house batteries.  Couldn't I just:

1- buy a new AGM engine battery when I install the batteries in the new camper? and skip the DC to DC charger. My new to me truck is a 2016, so assuming its the original battery, its almost time to replace it anyway. The cost difference between a flooded lead and a AGM starter battery is only about $100. Plus I'd have the benefit of a starter (engine) battery that would handle vibrations better.

 

2- Bring larger wire to the installer and upgrade the wire from the usual 10ga that FWC does to say 6 or 8 gauge?

 

Somewhere in one of these threads, someone stated and I agree, that given a large solar array, and proper battery bank, you probably should need charging from your alternator anyway.

 

Looking forward to opinions.


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#10 ntsqd

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Posted 23 August 2019 - 12:59 PM

For several years we ran the reverse set-up. AGM's in the engine bay and FLA's in the camper. To make matters worse the FLA's were old and had been abused, both by the PO and inadvertently by me. We still got 4-ish years out of them before I was forced to replace the camper batteries. I put in AGM's.

 

All of this still on the OEM alternator regulator.

 

About 1/2 way thru the life that we did get out of those FLA's I installed 100w of solar. I am fairly sure that it was the reason why those batteries lasted as long as they did. After that the alternator rarely had to charge them.

 

I ran 6ga. and I arrived at that size by assuming a max charge rate of 80 amps. Input that and the total circuit length into the Ancor Wire page's chart or formula (I forget which I used) and it showed that 6 ga. was the needed size. For wires this big no connector supplied by a camper mfg is going to work. The limit for those is 10ga. if that. The Anderson connectors (Grainger.com & powerwerx.com) are the best way to go.


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