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#11 Atlin

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Posted 22 November 2019 - 12:31 AM

OK, possibly problem solved.  I was crawling about under the truck today to look closer at wiring, and moved the power wires a bit and ZAP - clearly a short, started the insulation on fire even.  Pretty scary.  Obviously blew the fuse, so it has been doing it's job.  This also probably explains the intermittent nature of the problem.  So, at the very least I'll be replacing some wires, and will put them in a plastic wire loom or something like that to protect them better.  And I'll probably replace the battery with more capacity (wife just started using a CPAP, so that is an additional drain on the battery overnight).

 

Thanks to all for thoughts and suggestions.  Will make for a better electrical system overall.

 

Cheers,

Atlin


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#12 Vic Harder

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Posted 22 November 2019 - 01:59 AM

whew!  Glad that the fuse was doing its job!


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#13 Advmoto18

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Posted 22 November 2019 - 04:49 PM

Good to read you found the issue.

 

I've never been comfortable replacing blown fuses, resetting tripped breakers, unless I know exactly WHY they blew/tripped and make repair.  Making assumptions can lead to disastrous consequences.  Read about Air Canada 797 accident here.  This accident changed world wide  commercial airline policy/regulations on resetting tripped circuit breakers while airborne.  Fortunately, if our truck/camper catches on fire, we can pullover and jump out.

 

I too went with 6 ga welding cable, tinned lugs and adhesive lined shrink wrap.  All standard components from my days rigging saltwater fishing boats.

 

As Thom mentioned, many folks overlook the Ground and this is where I generally start looking with intermittent electrical issues.


Edited by Advmoto18, 23 November 2019 - 12:11 PM.

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South Carolina Low Country.  


#14 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 27 June 2020 - 11:07 PM

I need a simple explanation.

The system.

ATC Bobcat, stock wiring,100A AGM battery,105W solar,

battery isolator, 150W inverter,Truckfridge,3 way fridge.

 

The problem.

While driving with the fridge in 12V mode ,even in great sun

on the solar,the isolator wants to cycle on/off.

Therefor not charging the camper battery while traveling down the road.

 

I have run the 3 way fridge (truck not running) with solar output at about 75%W

and 5.5 amps. I can keep this up for about a few hours before the battery voltage falls below 12v.

 

So I would think on sunny days while driving and fridge in 12v mode the truck alternator would charge

the camper battery and not cycle the isolator.

Any ideas.

Frank


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#15 Vic Harder

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Posted 28 June 2020 - 03:20 AM

Frank,  the problem as you describe it is that even when driving the camper battery doesn't really charge.  This is a known issue with 3 way fridges.  No such problem exists with 2 way fridges.

 

That said, you may also have a problem with the truck to camper wiring/separator.  The cycling on/off is typical with the stock separator FWC used to use.  I could explain, but that would deviate from your request to KISS.  

 

Your options include:

1) New fridge

2) Replacing the separator with a Blue Sea 76xx series unit.  The 7622 that I have allows me to force (dis)connection

3) Upgrade the wiring from truck to camper from (10g or 14g) to 4g or thicker.

 

Oh, no... wait.  I see you have a Tundra.  That's an issue too.  They are one of the first units to have "smart" alternators.  Your best bet is a DC-DC charger placed close to your camper batteries.  It would replace your problematic separator and you can still use the wimpy stock wiring.


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#16 MidAtlantic

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Posted 28 June 2020 - 01:43 PM

Oh, no... wait.  I see you have a Tundra.  That's an issue too.  They are one of the first units to have "smart" alternators.  Your best bet is a DC-DC charger placed close to your camper batteries.  It would replace your problematic separator and you can still use the wimpy stock wiring.

 

https://www.ctek.com...re-sport/d250sa

  • No need to replace the wimpy wiring
  • Replaces the cheap separator and controller
  • Handles smart alternators and solar panel

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#17 ntsqd

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Posted 28 June 2020 - 04:59 PM

Downside to the D250S is a max of 20A charge rate. I doubt that it has ever happened, but I'm set up for 80A. That wasn't the reason though, the reason was voltage drop. Granted, with a DC-DC converter voltage drop is not an issue. I'd be sold if it offered a 40A-50A charge rate.


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#18 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 28 June 2020 - 07:00 PM

Frank,  the problem as you describe it is that even when driving the camper battery doesn't really charge.  This is a known issue with 3 way fridges.  No such problem exists with 2 way fridges.

 

That said, you may also have a problem with the truck to camper wiring/separator.  The cycling on/off is typical with the stock separator FWC used to use.  I could explain, but that would deviate from your request to KISS.  

 

Your options include:

1) New fridge

2) Replacing the separator with a Blue Sea 76xx series unit.  The 7622 that I have allows me to force (dis)connection

3) Upgrade the wiring from truck to camper from (10g or 14g) to 4g or thicker.

 

Oh, no... wait.  I see you have a Tundra.  That's an issue too.  They are one of the first units to have "smart" alternators.  Your best bet is a DC-DC charger placed close to your camper batteries.  It would replace your problematic separator and you can still use the wimpy stock wiring.

Thanks Vic.My Tundra is an 2002,did they use a smart alternator in trucks that old?

I have a "isolator" not the stock separator which was recalled back in 2011.

ATC replaced the old with the new isolator.

 

I'll have to do more research on a DC/DC unit.

Thanks for the info.

Frank


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#19 Vic Harder

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Posted 28 June 2020 - 08:16 PM

My Tundra is an 2002,did they use a smart alternator in trucks that old?

 

I'll have to do more research on a DC/DC unit.

 

I'm not sure when they started doing the smart alternators Frank.

 

I've had both the Renogy 30A and just now I am swapping out the Renogy and installing a Victron Orion 30A.   Why switch?  The Victron unit is much smaller, and I love the Bluetooth interface Victron uses.  Plus, I think I can be called a Victron groupie now that I have 4 of their devices in my rig! :D

 

I'm with Thom, a 40A charge rate would be awesome, but I worry about the strain on the alternator.  

 

My particular Victron Orion is giving me grief, so I've started the troubleshooting process.  Stay tuned!


Edited by Vic Harder, 28 June 2020 - 08:17 PM.

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#20 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 28 June 2020 - 08:40 PM

Vic this is my isolator.

The Surepower separator was recalled due to over heating.

This was the replacement from Marty.

 

Has worked great.I like it as both the camper and truck battery are kept charged up by

the solar system.And it doesn't get hot like the SurePower.

 

I've looked at the BlueSea ACR 7600 series ,is this what you are referring to?

From the description it sounds similar to what I have.

 

Thanks Frank

 

attachment=37531:IMG_4882.jpeg]

 

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