I believe you should be able to hear and perhaps feel the click of the furnace's gas-valve solenoid opening and closing during the ignition sequence.
I consistently get a whiff of LPG during the ignition sequence but it's fleeting and I have to be close to the gas-valve / igniter area of the furnace with the outside cover off to get it. The furnace is of course pulling that air into the combustion chamber. And if it's a breezy day, that makes it that more difficult to get that whiff of LPG.
A fairly common problem with the igniter is the ceramic insulator breaking. On mine, the center wire had broken free and was able to turn. They can also have cracks or electrical tracks or incorrect gap. My igniter had a spade terminal for the high-tension wire and after replacing the igniter I realized I should have been able to tell there was something wrong when I checked the high-tension wire's connection at that spade terminal. It would have moved (and shouldn't).
The other thing any furnace-troubleshooting thread should have is whether there's an LED on the control board and if so, what it shows. I assume it's showing a lockout after three attempts in this case. (Codes are in the manual and possibly in the furnace compartment-- mine are on a sticker in the motor area)
Control board problems are also very common so the logic here is to replace the inexpensive thing first. If you can get the board tested somewhere locally, great, but you may want to think how that plays out. When I had mine tested, I had already decided I wanted a Dinosaur Electronics board if mine failed the test and I did not intend to buy from that dealer. Mine passed so the issue of buying from them never came up. I did buy the igniter from them as it was so inexpensive that saving a couple of bucks didn't matter. In any case, that raises the issue of what the dealer's expectations are for the test. On mine, there was a sign at the parts counter that said free control board testing and I had been told over the phone that it's a free test so I figured it was a no-strings one. I guess it's kind of a risk to ask about it before the test but in any case you'll want to think it through.
I should also mention that the most common issue I've seen with getting a board tested is getting on the schedule at an RV stealership. Some owners have been told a test is possible but it had to be done by a tech and that tech's time would have to be scheduled. In my case, the parts guy just pulled the tester out from under the counter and ran the test.
PS- Don't forget to take standard precautions in working around or with the high tension wire.