85 vs 130 liter Isotherm Fridge for new Grandby
#11
Posted 01 March 2020 - 03:25 AM
80s or higher at start of test and upper 70s at end. First number is fridge setting and last is internal temperature achieved.
5 - 52 AH in 17 hrs, 3 amps avg, 35-36 °F
4.5 - 39 AH in 17 hrs, 2.3 amps avg, 36-37 °F
4.0 - 31 AH in 14 hrs, 2.2 amps avg, 37-38 °F
4.0 - 30 AH in 14 hrs, 2.1 Amps avg, 38-39 °F
4.8 - 51 AH in 17.5 hrs, 2.9 Amps avg, 35-36 °F
3.5 - 43 AH in 16.5 hrs, 2.6 Amps avg 39-40 °F, 82 outside in morning
#12
Posted 01 March 2020 - 03:26 PM
Seems odd to me that the fridge temp didn't change much regardless of the setting. And the overnight AH surprise me! That's a lot of juice.
2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/
Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/
Building out an electrical system - So, you want to setup a good electrical system in your camper? - Electrical, Charging, Solar, Batteries and Generators - Wander the West
#13
Posted 01 March 2020 - 07:46 PM
Seems odd to me that the fridge temp didn't change much regardless of the setting. And the overnight AH surprise me! That's a lot of juice.
Specs say the 130l uses 5 amps when running, dividing the avg amps by 5 amps should give a reasonable estimate of run time percentage.
This power consumption isn’t that much different power consumption that I see with my Dometic 110l.
Assuming 5 hrs available solar charge time each day says you likely need 50aH/ 5a==> 10 amps charging current + 5 amps fridge & other power usage during the day ==> 15 amps steady current available.
Factor in flat panel mounting, lower angle sun other than summer, or overcast skies & panel wattage requirements climb. Have fun anyway.
Paul
#14
Posted 02 March 2020 - 02:25 AM
Because of this high power use I have regretted choosing the 130L model. I am assuming that the 85L would use less power due to smaller size and less surface area for heat transfer. But may not be proportional to size.
#15
Posted 02 March 2020 - 02:36 PM
No data, but on a recent 3 month drive about, we only pushed the low end of the battery voltage once and that was when we spent a couple of days deep under the cedars around where Washington, Idaho, and Canada get together. As long as we drove a couple of hours or stayed out of the deep forests, we didn’t have an issue. This is with the 130 always full, the factory 160 on the roof, and 2 factory AGMs in the battery box. I have a 100 watt portable for occasional use, but typically only use it in the northwest. We spent most of the trip in the southwest and never even had to watch things.
Other notes: we had some early trouble with the 130 tied to figuring out the confusing latch mechanism and/or putting too much heavy stuff in the door. I will probably add some kind of external latch mechanism to prevent it from popping open on super rough roads. Opening the camper to find your groceries all over the floor is a quick way to learn to NEVER keep milk in a container that does not have a screw top..
Edited by Dirtroadsavant, 02 March 2020 - 02:37 PM.
#16
Posted 04 March 2020 - 04:33 PM
We love our 130L in a new Hawk. The factory 160 solar with 2x12v batteries works well in the Utah deserts @ 95F+ temps. The fridge sucks a ton of power, but the intense direct sunlight in the desert also cranks the solar input. I don't have any technical data to support my experience. I keep a sixpack chillin always and my wife loves her sparkly waters, plus we take all kinds of food. It's huge. It works well to have a FIFO rotation so there are always cold bevys.
Usage note: I usually try to park with the fridge on the shady side, often using the awning deployed about 3 feet so the side with the fridge won't bake while we hike, boat. I rarely use the fridge vent fan, but it does come in handy when it's super hot in the desert.
______________________________
2019 Hawk / Ford F250
#17
Posted 08 March 2020 - 11:32 PM
My experience is that when outside temps are 90 or above if I have the fridge set on 5 or higher it runs continuously trying to keep up.
Maybe I should stop measuring the internal air temperature with the wireless monitor. One less thing to think about.
#18
Posted 09 March 2020 - 03:34 AM
Vic, if you like data here is the rest of it from my test runs. Camper was parked in my shop and on shore power during the day with the fridge running to keep it cold. Then unplugged and left running over night on battery only at various fridge settings. Power use was measured by a Victron bmv700. This was August in Memphis, TN so shop temperature was upper
80s or higher at start of test and upper 70s at end. First number is fridge setting and last is internal temperature achieved.
5 - 52 AH in 17 hrs, 3 amps avg, 35-36 °F
4.5 - 39 AH in 17 hrs, 2.3 amps avg, 36-37 °F
4.0 - 31 AH in 14 hrs, 2.2 amps avg, 37-38 °F
4.0 - 30 AH in 14 hrs, 2.1 Amps avg, 38-39 °F
4.8 - 51 AH in 17.5 hrs, 2.9 Amps avg, 35-36 °F
3.5 - 43 AH in 16.5 hrs, 2.6 Amps avg 39-40 °F, 82 outside in morning
Another data point: I just re-installed my Victron BMV and I see my 130L is using very similar amounts of power as it tries to cool the totally empty fridge down from room temp. Setting at its coldest, I am seeing 3.8A, which included the extra fan I have installed.
2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/
Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/
Building out an electrical system - So, you want to setup a good electrical system in your camper? - Electrical, Charging, Solar, Batteries and Generators - Wander the West
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: isotherm, fridge, 85 liter, 130 liter
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