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Purchased first FWC (used). Remodeling questions!

water pump faucet solar wiring canvas fwc granby grandby ranger new owner

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#21 BMUS

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Posted 17 April 2020 - 08:44 PM

If you need any more info about your faucet replacement. This should help you. 

 

Here is the exact faucet I used. 

https://amzn.to/366WivM

 

Let me know if you have any more questions. 

Curious about that faucet. Is it ok to inquire about it here. If so, I've read that it tends to leak quite often. Thoughts. Anyone using it for a period of time to chime in? I wanted to install the same one but am Leary. 


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#22 Boonie

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Posted 18 April 2020 - 03:27 AM

Electrical Wizards, Why use a DC - DC charger rather than a Blue Sea si-ACR? Advantages one vs the other?


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#23 Vic Harder

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Posted 18 April 2020 - 06:08 AM

Electrical Wizards, Why use a DC - DC charger rather than a Blue Sea si-ACR? Advantages one vs the other?

depends on a lot of things Boonie.  Big advantage of the ACR is that it is protecting/monitoring both battery banks.  Solar and alternator and shore power and generator can charge both battery banks.  The ACR separates the battery banks if either bank drops too low in voltage.

 

Most newer trucks have "smart" alternators that keep voltage down (usually to protect the in-truck electronics, which are getting a lot more complicated these days).  Usually less than 13V.  Older alternators ran at 14+ volts.  My 2006 Chev runs at 14.5 most of the time.

 

Now add in the fact that most RV's (including FWC/ATC Campers) are run with small wires (14g up to 10g) and you have enough voltage loss across the 25' run from the alternator to the camper batteries that there isn't enough of a voltage difference at the camper battery to be able to charge them efficiently.  That can be fixed by using fatter wires, and/or using a DC-DC charger close to the camper batteries.

 

Other factors enter in too, such as differing battery chemistry, but that's the short answer.


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2006 Silverado 3500 ext cab 8' bed LBZ

2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/

Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/

 


#24 Boonie

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Posted 18 April 2020 - 04:24 PM

Snaves indicated he had ordered a "deep cycle battery", so I assume flooded cell lead acid and not Lithium, therefore, battery chemistry is not a issue, (Same setup I will be using.) His initial picture shows a Ford F250, but I have no idea whether that year and model has a smart alternator. If it is assumed it does not, then the only question is cable length and size between batteries. Based upon the advantages the ACR has it seems misguided in features and cost to use a DC-DC charger. This of course is based solely on the information provided thus far.

 

Boonie


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#25 Snaves

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Posted 18 April 2020 - 04:43 PM



Snaves indicated he had ordered a "deep cycle battery", so I assume flooded cell lead acid and not Lithium, therefore, battery chemistry is not a issue, (Same setup I will be using.) His initial picture shows a Ford F250, but I have no idea whether that year and model has a smart alternator. If it is assumed it does not, then the only question is cable length and size between batteries. Based upon the advantages the ACR has it seems misguided in features and cost to use a DC-DC charger. This of course is based solely on the information provided thus far.

 

Boonie

 

 



depends on a lot of things Boonie.  Big advantage of the ACR is that it is protecting/monitoring both battery banks.  Solar and alternator and shore power and generator can charge both battery banks.  The ACR separates the battery banks if either bank drops too low in voltage.

 

Most newer trucks have "smart" alternators that keep voltage down (usually to protect the in-truck electronics, which are getting a lot more complicated these days).  Usually less than 13V.  Older alternators ran at 14+ volts.  My 2006 Chev runs at 14.5 most of the time.

 

Now add in the fact that most RV's (including FWC/ATC Campers) are run with small wires (14g up to 10g) and you have enough voltage loss across the 25' run from the alternator to the camper batteries that there isn't enough of a voltage difference at the camper battery to be able to charge them efficiently.  That can be fixed by using fatter wires, and/or using a DC-DC charger close to the camper batteries.

 

Other factors enter in too, such as differing battery chemistry, but that's the short answer.

 

Time for an update!

 

Boonie, After asking my fairly uninformed questions on here, I went back and read through Vic's linked post  regarding power options and changed my mind on a few things. I ended up going with the Blue Sea ACR 7610. I actually found a refurbished unit on ebay for $36; score! 4 gauge welding wire from the underhood aux battery (we already had an aux battery as our F250 is a diesel) back to the house battery in the camper, with Anderson connectors. Works like a charm. 

 

IMG 0150

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#26 Snaves

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Posted 18 April 2020 - 04:46 PM



Curious about that faucet. Is it ok to inquire about it here. If so, I've read that it tends to leak quite often. Thoughts. Anyone using it for a period of time to chime in? I wanted to install the same one but am Leary. 

 

 

BMUS, 

 

That was the model faucet that was in the camper when we got it. The base was cracked (I'm guessing from the torque of hand pumping), so it leaked everywhere when used. 

 

I bought a section of copper pipe and bent it to make a faucet. There was already a water pump switch installed, so once I added the sureflow pump we were set. Here are some photos of the install:

 

IMG 0110
IMG 0335

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#27 Snaves

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Posted 10 May 2020 - 06:24 PM

Not sure if anyone has any experience with this:

 

Our rear KC floodlights have very dry rotted gaskets. When it rains water pours into the inside of the lens and I have to dump the lights out. I checked with KC directly but this model is out of production as it's older, so I can't by replacement gaskets. I've checked ebay, but was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions. I guess the next move would be to upgrade the lights to a newer model.

 

IMG 1170
IMG 1169

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#28 Vic Harder

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Posted 10 May 2020 - 07:32 PM

pull them apart, reseal with polyurethane caulking.


Edited by Vic Harder, 10 May 2020 - 07:33 PM.

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2006 Silverado 3500 ext cab 8' bed LBZ

2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/

Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/

 


#29 Snaves

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Posted 11 May 2020 - 12:28 AM

pull them apart, reseal with polyurethane caulking.

 

Thanks Vic, that should fix the leak for sure. I should have mentioned, when I was asking for suggestions for parts - I would like to replace the accordion gaskets on the "neck" of lights. As you can see from the photos they are dry rotted and falling off, exposing the wires on the inside. Thanks!


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#30 m.r.h.

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Posted 11 May 2020 - 10:38 PM

We use copper tube for hand washing sets up on the river. They get hammered from being taken down and set up each day so we put some braided PVC tube around them. Helps them last a lot longer. Not sure if you are worried about longevity but could be a quick project. 

 

Or if anyone is looking for a mobile hand wash station here is a write up with some photos I did. 


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