4 replies to this topic

[Toddhom]

I bought some Rhino roof rack rails to install on my 2001 Eagle.   They come with gaskets and rivets to use for installation.  The racks have pre-drilled holes that do not line up with the screws on the camper roof.  I'm thinking the best method might be to remove all the screws on the camper in the area where the rails are going then install the new racks using the rivets.  I have a few concerns.  if I drill new holes and use screws to install the racks it would seem that t-nuts would not be able to slide into the rails without hitting the screw heads.  The rivets would be very low profile.   Of course my fear is; if I move the existing screws I'm just asking for a leak problem.  The rails come with gaskets for each rivet and gaskets that run the length of both sides of the rails.  Any recommendations? 

 

Todd Homchick

[Seattle Mitch]

Is there some reason that you preferred the rhino racks over the Yakima?

My advice would be to return the rhino roof racks and get a Yakima system. I just installed mine and it works pretty sweet.

[Vic Harder]

I'm sure the rhino racks will be fine.  I used some t-bar rails from Lee Valley that have worked just fine so far.

 

Yes, pull out the existing screws.  If you want the least possible number of holes, drill new holes into the rhino rack rails, not your roof.  Measure carefully and drill holes to match where the existing holes are.

 

I used a generous dollop of 3m 4200 in the screw holes and more along the rail itself when mounting mine.  They are unlikely to leak, and I haven't weakened the roof by drilling more holes.

 

Also, just place one of the screws you intend to use in a hole in the rail as if it was mounted, and test fit a t-nut.  I had no issues with mine clearing the t-nuts.

[OffTheGridMaps]

I have 2005 Eagle and just went through this process this past summer.  However, since I didn't feel comfortable doing the install myself, I had our regional FWC dealer do the work.  So I just watched and asked a few questions along the way

 

They ended up pulling all the old screws where they mounted the tracks.  Then they cleared off all the old goo that was left behind from the screws.  To help with leaks, they then made some butyl tape "balls" that they pushed into the void.  The butyl tape expands a little which helped seal the void.  Then they laid down butyl tape under the tracks, and when they drove the self-tapping screws through the butyl tape and into the roof, the butyl tape sealed the screw holes.  Once they were all installed, they laid a bead of sealant (not silicone, but not sure what) along both sides of the track to help keep water from even getting to the holes.  So far, so good, no leaks.

 

At least that's what I think I saw happening   Good luck.

[Vic Harder]

Yep, butyl tape is great stuff.  I use it a lot, usually not places where I want a bit more "glue" than sealant though.  That said, NEVER use silicone.  It isn't UV stable, and prevents other stuff from sticking the area later when you decide to do it right.