16 replies to this topic

[LosAngeles]

this 20 ton bottle jack? this air compressor?

 

Hi all - I have a F350 crew cab long bed gasser, with a pop up truck camper always on it, that is about 2,700 lbs wet.

 

If I happen to get a flat tire… it is my understanding that the Ford OEM jack wont be appropriate to jack up the truck with the camper on it. 

 

Would this 20 ton bottle jack be good? 

 

https://www.amazon.c...duct/B000234IT4

 

Anything else I need?

 

also - novice question - any other tips for how to safely jack up the truck to swap a wheel?

 

and secondly… I need an air compressor for blowing out the air lines in our pop up camper when I winterize it…. also on the chance that I need to air down the tires due to sand … I need a compressor to be able to air back up. They are 18” All Terrain Wranglers. LT 275 / 70R x 18 E

 

VIAAIR have been recommended. Supposedly this is a good size for my tires. 

 

https://www.amazon.c...duct/B000X9B32M

 

Any thoughts on this model? 

 

Thanks   :-)

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Vic Harder]

20 tons is way overkill.  That's 40,000 pounds!  6 or 8 ton would be the size I would go for, based on the observation that SafeJack uses a 6 ton version in their kit.

 

I like that VIAAIR model.  Folks who know better than me on this forum recommend the 450 model because of the continuous duty cycle even though the flow rate seems lower to me.

[DanoT]

I agree with Vic, 20 ton jack is overkill.

 

I have a '91 Dodge diesel and 8.5 foot popup with a total weight of 8600lbs when fully loaded.  My 6 ton bottle jack lifts it with no problems.

 

Most 12v air compressors will take a long time to pump up tires large enough for 18"rims and might have to shut off a few times to cool down. Disclaimer: I only have experience with 12v compressors that cost less than $100. Still if you have a large enough inverter a 120v compressor with a tank might work better.

[LosAngeles]

Update - someone pointed out that I’d need to jack up the truck/pop up truck camper combo from the axle, (?)  so I’d need a * cradle * to do it safely. (?)

 

Yes this kit is expensive, but it comes highly recommended by a number of people, as being very safe.

 

I hope to be traveling and RVing for many many years to come, and safety is priceless to me.

 

thoughts? Never mind the price.    :-) 

 

They are currently 20% off, (back ordered 2 weeks) so the 20% off takes the sting out. and happy to support a small business. 

 

https://safejacks.co...ith-bottle-jack

 

 

Do I want to add the UNIVERSAL BOTTLE JACK BASE ?  $40.

 

Also I understand I should carry a basic jack stand with me, to put in place, after the corner is jacked up, to be extra safe. Any recommendations? Bonus points for an Amazon link (yes it will be weeks ‘till I get it)

 

Thanks!

[ntsqd]

I would look at a small floor jack and fit it with a full length 'skid-plate' in place of the wheels instead of a bottle jack. Like this that I built:

there are a couple vendors out there offering these skid-plates now, but you need to buy the specific jack that they're designed to work with.

 

I have one of these compressors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W1TNO6U/ under our 4rnnr and another one waiting to be installed under our FSB. A good friend got one just about 15 years ago and it is still going strong. It won't keep up with a converted A/C compressor, but it's not all that slow. It is too large to be a "portable" compressor and the wiring it requires is significant as the motor is roughly a 3/4 HP 12VDC motor. I figure with the motor's in-rush current on start-up that it draws 80 amps & wired accordingly.

 

I did have to separate the compressor from the tank to fit it under the 4rnnr, and I will need to do that again under the FSB. Were I fitting one to our CTD that would not be necessary because the whole assembly would easily fit up between the inner and outer bed panels.

 

 

[pvstoy]

I own 2 of those Puma units that Thom linked above.  Not sure of the "in-rush current" but they do draw 46 amps running and 100% duty cycle.  Works fine on the 2012 Dodge 3/4 ton truck.

 

I bought both from Buzzard Gulch Inc.  Links:

http://www.buzzardgu...product_id=4239

 

https://www.amazon.c...nt-items&sr=1-1

 

https://www.google.c...chrome&ie=UTF-8

Edited by pvstoy, 04 April 2020 - 04:32 PM.

[rando]

I have a hard mount ARB with bluetooth pressure monitoring, distribution manifold etc.  It is awesome, but based on how LA plans on using this, it is also complete overkill.   

 

The portable Viaair seems like a great option or even the Viaair 300P.   You will also want a regulator to put inline for blowing out your plumbing.   It is not strictly required, but can save bursting a pipe, fitting or tank if you get distracted during the winterizing process.  

[LosAngeles]

to clarify (sorry) i do want a portable solution for both items - full sized items are way too big for our needs.

 

also i dont think i need a tank at all on the all compressor. 

 

Why no tank?  - so the RV manufacturer showed me a very specific way to open all the water fixtures in the RV, and set to 1/2 cold 1/2 warm so both lines will get blown out...

also to close off special valves *before* the water heater, so it 100% shields the water heater from the pressure.....

and take the head off the shower hose, so I dont have to hold it open.... and for safety.... so it is always open....

and then when I attach the compressor to the city water supply.... it will be safe, at any pressure, if I follow the above protocol

so in that case... seems like I likely dont need a pressure regulator? and no air tank.... (i would much prefer no air tank, so much more portable, so I can carry with me)

sound cool?

 

 

thanks

Edited by LosAngeles, 04 April 2020 - 04:47 PM.

[pvstoy]

If you have all those water lines open and the shower head off you need the volume of a good home based air compressor, not a portable one.  The small portable units don't have the bigger home based tank size that you will need to blow out the water lines.  

 

In my garage I have a 30 gallon tank and use a attachment to the city water inlet.  The compressor has a regulator and I set it to 35 - 40 PSI.  This prevents the water line joints from breaking when all the faucets are closed. open a circuit and move to the next until I feel there is no large percent of water in the water lines to cause freeze damage.

 

I think you need a portable compressor that you are comfortable using and storing in the truck/camper to fill tires and don't expect it to give you the performance and air volume to clear the water lines.  A portable unit could but one line at a time and painfully slow and not efficient. "Read Rando post above suggestions."

 

A second home base compressor for the garage if you really want to have air volume to do something, like blow out water lines.

Edited by pvstoy, 04 April 2020 - 05:38 PM.

[ntsqd]

I own 2 of those Puma units that Thom linked above.  Not sure of the "in-rush current" but they do draw 46 amps running and 100% duty cycle. ...

All electric motors have a start-up current that exceeds their running current. I've long heard this called the "In-Rush" current by EE's and those edumacated in things electrical. I'm sure that an EE can figure out what any given motor's normal in-rush current should be, but I just guessed it would be about a 1/4 again more watts and backed out the amps based on 12.0 VDC.