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Structural failure at rear door header


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#1 Boonie

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Posted 05 April 2020 - 08:04 PM

As I get ready to do final welding of my revised camper shell, I have observed what may be a failure of the FWC "flex frame design". Although only those of you that have torn your camper apart may be able to answer this question, I am going to ask it here in a new topic rather than on my build page. 

 

At the 2x1 rear door header ('81 construction) I have cracks in that header where the door side posts attach to the header. I am sure that as the left and right sides of the camper "sway" when going down the road the only member that resists that movement is this 2x1, thus the cracks. If I reinforce from the outside it interferes with the roof closing. If I reinforce on the inside it interferes with lifting mechanism. If I reinforce on top (as Pokybro did) I would have to raise the height of the top rail all the way around. If I reinforced below It would reduce the door opening height. The only method that makes sense is to cut and reinforce internally (which I did in a similar situation when I extended the Jeep frame 24").

 

What have you done?


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#2 Vic Harder

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Posted 05 April 2020 - 08:58 PM

Boonie, I am totally in awe of what you are doing with your camper.  Very cool.

 

For what it's worth, I don't think either of my two camper builds had cracks in that area.  Here are a relevant pic, or is this not the right area?

 

 

IMG 1582

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#3 Boonie

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Posted 05 April 2020 - 09:11 PM

Vic,

 

Yes, above the 26" mark, above the black (gasket?), almost to the far left of the picture where the door side post connects to the header and the lift mechanism attach.

 

Boonie


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#4 Boonie

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Posted 05 April 2020 - 09:26 PM

A picture is worth a thousand words, so here it is.

 

DSCN0229resize.JPG


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#5 Vic Harder

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Posted 05 April 2020 - 09:34 PM

I notice your frame is not doubled up like mine is.  Mind you, I didn't take mine apart as far as you did, so didn't see that area.   What about spreading the load by introducing a doubled up vertical member to the right of the door frame one you have now?


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#6 Beach

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 12:59 AM

As Vic mentioned you can double up or have corner gussets welded into that open square to the right of the upright. I would fab a "T" plate and weld it in place over the cracks after they have been repaired/welded. 


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#7 Boonie

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 01:16 AM

Vic,

 

Yes, I will be doubling up the vertical members. (I added a picture on my build that shows partial verticals I mocked up to get dimensions.) However, that will simply move the stress point. I still think I need some reinforcement. Maybe a flat plate on the inside.

 

Boonie


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#8 Boonie

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 01:36 AM

Beach,

 

You are thinking along the same lines as the flat plate I mentioned. Thanks for the input.

 

Boonie


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#9 PokyBro

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 02:10 AM

Boonie,

 

I tried to find a good picture in my album showing the same crack I had, and how we went about fixing it, but no luck. As I recall I had my guy weld the crack, and then as you mentioned above, I added two rows of 1”x1” stock above the door because I wanted more height and to increase the bed overhang depth, but it also served to create a more sturdy doorway.

 

in my opinion, if you put a 1/16” thick plate on the front and back and covering over the crack with welds on each end, in addition to welding the crack and then grinding down the bead a bit before putting the plate over top, I don’t think it will interfere with the outside lid coming down, nor the lift panel hinge mounting on the inside. You may have a little irregularity, but not enough to matter. Remember the tube thickness on you frame is probably less than 1/16”  thick anyhow.

 

Good luck, and glad to see you digging back in. Keep the pictures coming, it’s fun to watch.

 

Poky


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#10 Boonie

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 02:54 AM

Poky,

 

Early in my build I mentioned my self imposed height limit so as to fit in my garage and I think that very first picture is the only one that shows my camper in relationship to the garage door. I'm holding my breath that my Fan-Tastic vent will clear. That fact limits me from reinforcing by adding above the top rail. By the way I do plan to gain some standing height (I'm 6'-2") with longer lifting mechanism and longer fabric sides.

 

Also I'm still bummed that your location now reads Salt Lake City.

 

Boonie


Edited by Boonie, 06 April 2020 - 02:55 AM.

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