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Structural failure at rear door header


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#11 camelracer

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 06:32 AM

I've had FWC repair that area twice on my camper under warranty. It was evidenced by a crack in the siding at the upper right door corner. I didn't get to see it when it was apart so I'm not sure exactly what they did.They did say they replaced a 1x2 tube with 2 1x1 tubes.

 

In any case it didn't work since it has cracked a third time. Being out of warranty now I'm not going to spend the money for them to do another temporary repair. I've just sealed the crack to keep the water out.


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2002 Fiat 2500 CTD 4x4, FWC Grandby 1951 Willys CJ3A

#12 Boonie

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 03:38 PM

I wish the fix camelracer mentioned would have worked because it does make sense. From what little I remember about structural loads, the crack results from tension along the bottom cord. Replacing the single 1x2 with 2 1x1 doubles the members capable of resisting tension. Unfortunately it is still a single member on the bottom cord with two in the center, but this idea is still a contender.

 

Thanks camelracer

 

Boonie


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#13 Beach

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 04:24 PM

Just some thoughts as to repairing this; Noticing the cracks begin at the weld, which is the weakest area of the aluminum due to heating during the welding process. Since this area wants to flex and you are limited by original design on how robust you can modify it, it might make sense to repair the existing cracks and install the T plate with rivets and bed it in place with 5200 or a flexible epoxy like Gflex. You would need to research the epoxy type/brand for this application and all surfaces would have to be prepped(abraided) properly for proper bonding. Additionally the T plate inside angles should have a radius instead of a square right angle corners(similar to aircraft construction) to reduce the chance of cracking in the future.


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#14 Vic Harder

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 06:55 PM

Curious minds want to know why this problem isn't more common.


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#15 DLN

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 11:03 PM

Just a thought, if you were to change to the newer rounded corner door you could potentially solve the issue with a pair of radiused 1/4" aluminium braces at each corner.


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#16 camelracer

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 01:56 AM

Just a thought, if you were to change to the newer rounded corner door you could potentially solve the issue with a pair of radiused 1/4" aluminium braces at each corner.

I've wondered if that's the reason FWC went to the rounded doors.


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2002 Fiat 2500 CTD 4x4, FWC Grandby 1951 Willys CJ3A

#17 Boonie

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 04:08 AM

Curious minds want to know why this problem isn't more common.

 

Vic, If you listen closely you might be able to hear the sound of readers running out to their camper to check for cracks!


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#18 Vic Harder

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 04:59 AM

Vic, If you listen closely you might be able to hear the sound of readers running out to their camper to check for cracks!

LOL.  I do wonder if the rounded doors are a "fix" for a problem that is more prevalent than we know.


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#19 Forrest

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 06:50 AM

I have an older Grandby that I am in the process of updating b/c of crack on both sides of the door, top and bottom (one side) and the door frame itself. I think over tightening of the turnbuckles, 8ft bed flex w/ only a partial aluminum fame and off road was the magic combination. I believe this is why FWC has the radius doors and windows now and beefed up their framing. FWIW, recently got to look at 2011 framing and its way beefier and better made than in 2000 Grandby. Its kool to see the progression of building. 


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#20 Boonie

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 05:28 PM

Forrest,

 

Welcome to WTW.

 

I agree with your "magic combination", especially off road and since this is where I will be using my rig, I want to find a fix.

 

Boonie


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