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Using an utility trailer


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#11 Denver Alaskan

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Posted 10 May 2020 - 02:44 AM

Does your Owners Manual or Service Manual have any towing specifications in it for your truck? If not, then Google can be your friend. I typed "Silverado 1500 4x4" in Google's search box and got a lot of conflicting information. The NADAguides.com web site states the Max Towing Capacity is 5,500 lbs. An answer to a "Question people ask" has a much different answer: "The 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500 can tow up to 10,700 lbs. with the 6.2L V8 engine and MAX Trailering Package." Of course, your Silverado may not have that particular engine and may not have the MAX Trailering Package, so check your Owners Manual, Service Manual, or data sticker for the towing capacity of your truck. 

 

The more important question, however, is can your 2011 Silverado 1500 4x4 STOP a flatbed trailer with your 10' NCO Alaskan on it?  You will have to install a brake controller in your Silverado and properly wire it to your trailer to have the truck and trailer brakes work together. IMO, stopping is more important than pulling.        

 

 

 


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#12 JoeKan

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Posted 10 May 2020 - 10:35 PM

Good points, thank you! Another question popped into my mind. I'm thinking that I should get a tandem axle trailer with the axles located more toward the middle of the trailer rather than towards the end of it? This, IMHO,  will help balance the load. Is this correct or am I off on this one? 


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#13 Denver Alaskan

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Posted 10 May 2020 - 11:47 PM

You want 10-15% of your trailer's total loaded weight on the front coupler that hitches to your truck to provide stability. A different way of approaching this is to put 60% of the load's weight forward of the axle centerline and 40% behind the axle centerline. If there is no weight on the front coupler the trailer will tender to wander side-to-side traveling down the road.

 

You also want the bed of your loaded trailer to be level when towed. If you truck's receiver tube is higher than your trailer's coupler, use a drop hitch to lower the top of the hitch ball to be even with the inside top of your coupler. If vice-versa, flip the proper size receiver upside-down to raise the ball the required distance.  

 

The trailers I see swaying the most on the highway usually have the coupler raised much higher that the trailer bed and have the load towards the rear of the trailer, exactly what NOT to do.     

 

Here is a wikihow web site that covers the basics of loading a flatbed trailer:

 

https://www.wikihow.com/Load-a-Trailer

 

The text on how to determine the amount of receiver hitch drop or rise says measure to the top of the hitch ball and top of the coupler, but the diagram inconsistently shows measurements taken to the bottom of each. Just use both tops or both bottoms to be consistent. Bottom measurement are likely easier to take.
 

 

 


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#14 JoeKan

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Posted 11 May 2020 - 02:15 AM

That was great! You've answered my questions and settled my fears, I appreciate it. 


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#15 Igottasail

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Posted 24 May 2020 - 11:31 AM

IMG_5935.jpg
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#16 Igottasail

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Posted 24 May 2020 - 11:32 AM

Just weighed mine and it came in at 2300 lbs.
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#17 JoeKan

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Posted 26 July 2020 - 10:31 PM

My thoughts on hauling my Alaskan are constantly evovling. I'm thinking about getting a utility trailer (82"x16') to haul her in. I can use this trailer in a lot of other areas too, such as hauling my trucks and tractor in.  I would appreciate your thoughts on how this will ride. Since it is 48" wide in the front and 56.5" at the rear that means I'm going to have a lot of space along the sides of the camper on the trailer.  Would this look "interesting"?   

I plan on building side lockers so the bottom half and top half will be flush with one another. 

Do you think there's anything wrong with doing it this way? 

The Alaskans I've seen being pulled on a trailer all have the sides flush or even with the sides of the trailer. 

Thanks for any feedback! Time's getting short and I need to figure this out fairly soon. 


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#18 Maxsterblaster

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Posted 13 September 2020 - 08:08 AM

Do not try to balance the load. You want a 40/60 weight distribution. Otherwise you get tail whip.

Good points, thank you! Another question popped into my mind. I'm thinking that I should get a tandem axle trailer with the axles located more toward the middle of the trailer rather than towards the end of it? This, IMHO, will help balance the load. Is this correct or am I off on this one?


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#19 JoeKan

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 09:37 PM

Hey another update. I just came home tonight with a used tandem axle utility trailer. It's 16ft long, got a great deal on it. My Alaskan is sitting on my 68 Ford f250. One of my sons who is in college is coming home this week to help me lift it off the 68 and put it on the utility trailer. My construction job is winding down here so I'll be hauling it up north so I can keep working. I'm planning on living in it all winter. 

 

I did decide not to redo my seat cushions because it was very expensive. So I took a carpet cleaner and went over it a few times. I don't think that help to get the dusty musty smell off so I took a can of Ozium  and sprayed one of the cushions and it actually took away the dusty smell! I'm going to see how long that will last. 


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