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Reducing my 3" Super Duty hitch for a 2" bike rack without wobble

bike racks ford superduty

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#11 ntsqd


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Posted 07 July 2020 - 01:13 PM

I use a grade 8 bolt for the hitch pin. Buy it with the shoulder length (not the overall length) equal to or slightly longer than the width of the receiver and stack washers as needed so that the nut can be run down tight. Then behind that bolt near the rear of the adapter I drill a vertical 1/2" hole thru everything (a floor jack to push up in the drill motor is a wonderful thing!) and put a 1/2" grade 8 bolt, with the length set the same way as above, in that hole too. If you don't think it's going to be removed very often try for all metal lock nuts. It can't rattle when done like that.

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Where does that road go?

#12 JaSAn


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Posted 07 July 2020 - 01:34 PM

I've used one of these for years to eliminate movement of the hitch pulling a 10,000 lb trailer:




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Sköldpaddan, a 1977 FWC Grandby
Renovating Skoldpaddan
2012 Ram 2500 4X4
1951 Dodge Power Wagon

#13 hpcbmw


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Posted 09 July 2020 - 03:00 PM

I use the same product Aspen uses - $14.00 from Amazon. Works great to keep my bike rack from moving around, plus it's cheap and easy to use!

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1997 4 wheel Camper Granby model on 2000 F250 extended cab 4x4 diesel.


#14 Andy Douglass

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Posted 27 July 2020 - 05:01 AM

I don't think those hitch tighteners are designed to work with hitch adapters. I could see it possibly working with one adapter, but I think a stack of two adapters would change the length and angle of hitch tightener you would need. 

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#15 smlobx


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Posted 30 July 2020 - 03:38 PM

My F-350 came with a 2” sleeve that I had welded onto the hitch to make for a very secure connection
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