23 replies to this topic

[BurnsMoto]

Assuming 15' each way from the camper to the alternator with 10AWG wire, you will be dropping around 1V at 30A.   What is the alternator output voltage at idle?  It should be > 13.4V, in which case the 1V drop would be OK.   Maybe there are some bad connections in the path?  Or do you still have the 30A circuit breaker in the loop?  

I do have a 30amp fuse on that 10awg wire running from the engine battery to the charger. 

Alternator voltage at idle is 13.8 -14.2v.

Edited by BurnsMoto, 01 September 2020 - 06:49 PM.

[BurnsMoto]

I spoke with high output Mechman Alternators to get their point of view and I spoke with a tech at Victron. Victron will be putting out an adjustable amperage setting in the software in the future (maybe). This 30 amp charger actually takes 40 amps from the alternator to account for loss. Yes, I do have loss in my current wire gauge, but it's not that bad. Everything is pointing to the fact that the alternator is underpowered at 130 amps.

[rando]

I do have a 30amp fuse on that 10awg wire running from the engine battery to the charger. 

Alternator voltage at idle is 13.8 -14.2v.

 

Well then your 30A (output, >30A input) is likely tripping the 30A breaker, which then resets.  

 

Your 130A alternator should easily deal with a 30 - 35A load.  I seriously doubt that is the issue.   It seems much more likely that the fuse/wiring/splices are the issue.

[BurnsMoto]

Well then your 30A (output, >30A input) is likely tripping the 30A breaker, which then resets.  

 

Your 130A alternator should easily deal with a 30 - 35A load.  I seriously doubt that is the issue.   It seems much more likely that the fuse/wiring/splices are the issue.

I just put in a 40 amp fuse and it's no longer dropping down to 11.6v. Seems to be working fine now.

I'll upgrade my wiring next.

Thanks for all your help everyone.

Edited by BurnsMoto, 01 September 2020 - 07:46 PM.

[Ruck_and_Roll]

When I initially installed my orion it was a little finnicky. 

 

1.  I would make sure the input voltage lockout settings are set correctly as the original factory settings in the victron software did not align with my truck's battery settings. 

2.  I used 6AWG and bluesea 60amp breakers w/Anderson powerpole connectors.  After initial install I did notice I was getting some inconsistent values in the bluetooth application and it turned out to be some loose connections in the powerpoles.

3.  I would also check with Renogy to see what their recommended charging profile is for their battery.  I have a battleborn battery and they provided me with the recommended charger settings.

 

Hope this helps.

 

-Luke

[veryactivelife]

I just put in a 40 amp fuse and it's no longer dropping down to 11.6v. Seems to be working fine now.

I'll upgrade my wiring next.

Thanks for all your help everyone.

As you probably saw in the manual, Victron recommends a 60 amp fuse or circuit breaker. I used a resettable CB in the engine compartment so I can disconnect when putting a battery charger on the truck.

 

Ran 4AWG back to an Anderson connector and then 6AWG to the Orion and the batteries. I'm seeing about 33amps outputting to my camper batteries, at least until the Orion gets too hot and derates. These Orions get red hot, I'm going to install a blower fan on a thermal switch to blow some air on it. If still too hot I'll add a vent to get better air exchange in the cabinet.

 

One last thought, did you wire to the truck battery or directly to the alternator? If you are going directly to the alternator and it is trying to be too smart it might be throttling itself.

 

Dean

[astropuppy]

Ran 4AWG back to an Anderson connector and then 6AWG to the Orion and the batteries. 

 

Did you replace the trolling motor plug with an Anderson? I'm trying to plan a dc-dc charger upgrade before a LiPO4 upgrade.

[veryactivelife]

Did you replace the trolling motor plug with an Anderson? I'm trying to plan a dc-dc charger upgrade before a LiPO4 upgrade.

I ran my 4AWG to an Anderson plug and then new wiring into the camper where the dc2dc is mounted. It was too difficult to get to where the factory wiring entered into the camper as it was behind the water tank so I just left all the old wiring in place from inside the camper out to the trolling plug. I did have a problem with the marker lights no longer being grounded so I connected the old ground wire exiting the trolling plug to the truck. There’s probably a better cleaner solution but everything works.

[lostcreek]

Some info to add to the OP's comment in first post:

 

"The killer reason to go with the Victron DC-DC Charger – no need for an engine-running sense wire from the camper to the truck. Both the Redarc and the Renogy appear to need one"

 

Don't need to run a separate engine-sense wire if you already have other kinds of disconnects.  I'm using a Renogy, just added a jumper off the positive wire incoming from the engine.  From previous installation config, already have a toggle switch to disconnect at the DCDC  and an isolator at engine.

Edited by lostcreek, 14 January 2021 - 08:53 PM.

[Vic Harder]

I added a thermal sensor to my system, that trips a powerful fan to cool the DC-DC charger. I get a consistent 360W out of it.