5 replies to this topic

[Eldonderino]

I know this has been discussed before but I have a couple questions.

 

Has anyone come up with a permanent solution to this rather than shimming the camper. The metal plate below the door frame is fractured on each side. Would replacing this fix the problem or are there deeper issues which cause this?

 

My other question is, is it better to shim between the truck bed and the base of the camper, or between the bed sidewalls and the camper overhang. or does it matter.

 

Thanks

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Edited by Eldonderino, 20 August 2020 - 10:25 PM.

[popRoid]

Eldonderino:

 

My best guess is at times there was not much support under the base of the camper extending beneath the door and it cracked.

 

The pictures below are how I support my Alaskan while in the bed of my truck.  I use one additional support at the end of the tailgate (not pictured) which is directly beneath the rear door.

 

Keep asking as someone on here will have had experience with a cracked door.

 

All the best. 

 

 

[wcj]

The first one I rebuilt the under door plate was cracked. Welded it and it has been fine.

 

My experience with the spread at the top of the bottom door is not related to the door plate. My easiest solution has been to put a piece of foam board insulation between the bed sidewalks and the camper overhang. Play with thickness to find the right amount to straighten up the door. It usually doesn't take much pressure to straighten it out and the door definitely closes nicer. 

[Eldonderino]

Thank you. That answers my question. I'll just shim it and not bother getting the plate welded in that case. The other benefit of the shims will be they take some strain off the tie down anchors.

Edited by Eldonderino, 21 August 2020 - 03:20 AM.

[enelson]

I have shims on the bed rails to help with spreading. Be careful though, because if you shim the leverage between the shim and tie down can lift up on the plywood and start to pull the crown staples up from the vertical to horizontal plywood connection on the inside of the bed. I’ve reinforced my camper so they can’t pull apart and will add a compression strut underneath the rear floor in the near future to take the load and resist spreading. The door opening is a weak part of the Alaskan camper design.

Edited by enelson, 22 August 2020 - 02:17 AM.

[PackRat]

If you have added a 2x4 or other similar dimension wooden frame/supports to raise the camper because your truck bed sidewall is much taller than back in the day, this may work for you.....

 

As you know, the floor and sidewalls and front/rear walls are not really very well designed for 50-60 years of use and the wood can and will become LESS sturdy over time. The rear steel section that goes across the rear panel and secures it to the floor is notched where the door is and this weak spot is where cracks develop. After that, the sides of the rear panel splay out at the top and you can see how the rear door no longer is aligned from top to bottom.

 

I have used the shims, but after a while, they become flattened out or are squished out from the movement of camper to truck bed. 

 

So...if you have a 2 x 4 or higher framework to support the camper above the truck sidewalls (it should NEVER rest on the side walls of the truck bed!!!!!!!!!!!!, got that?), you can purchase some 1/4" by 2" angle iron and rout that rear wooden crossmember and sink that angle iron into it top and rear....then the rear panel/floor assembly will sit on some STEEL for support...if you still see some flex and the door needs a bit more closing, use shims attached to the bottom of the wooden frame.