51 replies to this topic

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

IMO I would ditch that separator.

They shouldn't get that hot.

That could be a danger.

That's why the SurePower co recalled them.

 

Frank

[Wallowa]

What is the exact model of Blue Sea ML-ACR that should be used in our FWC?

 

Thanks...Phil

[kmcintyre]

What is the exact model of Blue Sea ML-ACR that should be used in our FWC?

 

Thanks...Phil

 

You can use either the ML or the SL version.  I have one I'm selling if you are interested.  Some where in this thread I think I posted the differences.

[kmcintyre]

I guess it was another thread:

 

The ML part of ML-ACR means magnetic latching, which means the controller switches the relay closed and it stays closed until the controller switches it open and it stays open. During those transitions the ML-ACR is drawing some current, about 40mA, but the rest of the time in one of the bi-stable states the current consumption is small, about 10mA.

The SI-ACR is a traditional relay, when it's open (e.g. isolating) there's minimal current, about 15mA for the monitoring circuit. When the relay is closed (e.g. combined) it takes a lot of current to hold in, about 175mA. This is not a huge amount of current since presumably your engine is running but it would be true also while on solar or shore supply. Again, not a tremendous amount but something to note if you're generating 2 or 3 amps with a 50W panel perhaps.

In terms of function, they are basically similar, combining when voltage is high enough, isolating when it drops. I will mention one thing about the 500A rating of the ML-ACR, this may come into play during a self jump or winch operation even if your alternator is less than the capacity. IOW, if you want both batteries in the circuit for very high current use you have no choice but to use the ML-ACR or something similar.

[Old Crow]

I think I know why the separator was hot when the truck wasn’t running. Interested in what others think.

I had the trickle charger on the truck batteries while the camper was connected. I think this pushed the truck batteries up in voltage to trigger the separator. I understand they get warm/hot when they click on. Charging the truck batteries seems to be the same as driving when the alternator is pushing up the voltage.

 

 

Story continues. Truck parked connected to camper. Solar charging and separator hot. Volt meter in truck battery shows 14v, same as camper. Disconnect camper from truck and truck voltage drops. Seems that the separator is allowing solar charging to the truck battery which most likely is also causing the heat. If this the case then it seems like the separator has gone bad. My understanding is the power should only come from the truck.

 

 

Checked voltage at camper to truck plug. Power at the plug from camper is 13.xx depending on solar charge at the moment. Seems as though power is flowing through separator back to the truck. I assume this would indicate separator is not working.

 

Was the trickle charger still connected to the truck battery (and plugged in) when you did those last two voltage checks?

[Outnabout]

Was the trickle charger still connected to the truck battery (and plugged in) when you did those last two voltage checks?

No, trickle charge was not on for the last checks I made.

[Wallowa]

OK .... Blue Sea shows the 12v ML/ACR in two models....7622 with manual switch and 7620 without that switch...which is preferred in the FWC and why?

 

Thanks...Phil

[Outnabout]

OK .... Blue Sea shows the 12v ML/ACR in two models....7622 with manual switch and 7620 without that switch...which is preferred in the FWC and why?

Thanks...Phil

FWC currently uses Blue Sea Systems ACR 7611 in the factory build. I contacted them today and found this out.

[Wallowa]

Oh great...an ACR 7611?  I see it handles less amperage and costs less that the ML/ACRs but is it the best choice? 

 

And yes, I do have a winch, but of course only use it with Tundra motor running.  

 

Best option?

 

Thanks...Phil

[Outnabout]

Oh great...an ACR 7611? I see it handles less amperage and costs less that the ML/ACRs but is it the best choice?

And yes, I do have a winch, but of course only use it with Tundra motor running.

Best option?

Thanks...Phil

I think it will work for me. I don’t require much power. Lights, furnace fan, and eventually a compressor fridge.