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4AWG from the factory?


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#31 Vic Harder

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Posted 24 November 2020 - 01:35 AM

I looked through this thread, and didn't see mention. I've been intrigued by Renogy's new dual-input battery chargers, that combine  both a solar input and a smart alternator input. It includes a MPPT solar controller. It seems like a great combination. They have both 30A and 50A models. Also includes bluetooth interfaces.

 

I really like my current Victron MPPT controller, but I could really increase the highway charging with this device. Does anyone have any intel on the new Renogy devices?

Will Prowse (believable dude) reviews it here -

The downside for this device is the low input voltage, that requires all your solar panels to be in parallel, and limits you to 36 cell (160W) panels.


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#32 Vic Harder

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Posted 24 November 2020 - 03:13 AM

Ooops, forgot to mention......

 

Definitely plan to go 2x LiFePO4 later when the AGMs get old and possibly add another SunPower 170w if needed. Does this alter my requirements for the DC-DC........ is the Orion DC-DC 30A still sufficient? 

So you will have 340W of solar?  The details on this panel are available online here - https://us.sunpower....-panel-170w-6x8

 

In parallel, you will have 2 x 6.15A max = 12.30A, well within the limits of the Victron 100/30

In series, you will have 2 x 34.6V max = 69.2V,  also well within limits.

 

Alternately, checking Victron stats at PKYS.com (good reseller) you are good to 440Watts

https://shop.pkys.co...030_p_3666.html

 

FYI, the max input size on the Renogy MPPT/DC-DC charger is about 400W per Will Prowse.

 

Looking at the Battleborn page, the MAX charging current is 1C or the rating of the battery itself = 100A  1/2C or less is usually recommended to stress the batteries less.  I'm running dual 100AH Battleborns and have wished for more than 30A total charging rates on occasion, but also don't want to stress my single alternator too much.  I think rando has suggested much lower than .5C as optimal for these batteries, but I can't find an internet source for that at the moment. 


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#33 pawleyk

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Posted 01 December 2020 - 03:56 PM

If you like your current victron MPPT, keep it and install Victron's Orion DCDC Charger. Avoid Renogy equipment like the plague. Their quality is nowhere near the level of victron equipment. We saw  in three units fail and no longer install any Renogy equipment into any customer rig. 

I looked through this thread, and didn't see mention. I've been intrigued by Renogy's new dual-input battery chargers, that combine  both a solar input and a smart alternator input. It includes a MPPT solar controller. It seems like a great combination. They have both 30A and 50A models. Also includes bluetooth interfaces.

 

I really like my current Victron MPPT controller, but I could really increase the highway charging with this device. Does anyone have any intel on the new Renogy devices?


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#34 pawleyk

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Posted 01 December 2020 - 04:02 PM

I didn't read through the entire thread, but was referred over here by a customer who saw it..

 

Definitely upgrade the wire. It makes a huge difference. Even with a DCDC charger.. I saw someone else mention it above, that their Redarc "didn't like" the smaller fwc factory wiring. Of course it didn't. 

 

We install the Victron unit in my Reno shop, we've installed about 50 of them this year. Almost all of them with #4awg wire.

 

The few we installed using FWC factory 10awg worked ok, but would constantly cycle on and off as the voltage drop resulting from the high amp flow through the small wire would cause the Orion DCDC unit to think the truck was "off". It would consistently see input voltages drop to 10v in bulk charge. 

 

Most normal sized AGM battery banks in a FWC won't require or need a DCDC at all. Lithium yes. Both benefit from the larger wire if you use your power system to it's limits. 

 

KP


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#35 Charlie

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Posted 04 December 2020 - 12:55 AM

Isn't there one on the page you just linked to?

https://www.ancorpro...conductor-sizes

 

The key thing about sizing per length of conductor is that you have to assume an acceptable voltage drop.  Most tables seem to assume 3%, which is an OK ball park estimate.   But like most things, the devil is in the details - for some things 3% may be too much drop (like charging a lead acid battery), but for other things you will be fine with much more drop (a DC-DC charger, or 12v->5V USB charger).   

 

There is a tendency for folks to quote these tables like it is some sort of hard and fast rule, without considering the details of the actual application. 

Bluesea has a nice table for dc ampacity which does take into account the run length, and provides AWG sizes for 3% and 10% voltage drops. https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437


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#36 Jsoboti

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Posted 16 December 2020 - 03:32 AM

Update to close this thread...

 

Mule Expedition Outfitters ended up running 4AWG wire for me. They also placed a solenoid on the positive wire from the truck battery that I'm able to control via up fitter switch so I can chose when the camper is gets power. The factory battery separator in the camper is still being utilized as well. This way I'm 90% ready for a DC-DC charger. It was no problem for them, just a few extra $$. 

 

Cheers!

 

UPDATE: With the 4AWG wiring from the truck, stock Hawk wiring in the camper with the batteries at around 80% I was bulk charging and was seeking 15AMPs of charge (right way to say that??)  on my battery meter coming from the truck. Not Bad!!! Might just skip the DC-DC charger and call it good. 


Edited by Jsoboti, 24 December 2020 - 06:22 PM.

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#37 pawleyk

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Posted 04 January 2021 - 08:09 PM

Update to close this thread...

 

Mule Expedition Outfitters ended up running 4AWG wire for me. They also placed a solenoid on the positive wire from the truck battery that I'm able to control via up fitter switch so I can chose when the camper is gets power. The factory battery separator in the camper is still being utilized as well. This way I'm 90% ready for a DC-DC charger. It was no problem for them, just a few extra $$. 

 

Cheers!

 

UPDATE: With the 4AWG wiring from the truck, stock Hawk wiring in the camper with the batteries at around 80% I was bulk charging and was seeking 15AMPs of charge (right way to say that??)  on my battery meter coming from the truck. Not Bad!!! Might just skip the DC-DC charger and call it good. 

 

If you finish the upgrade all the way to the camper battery, and ditch the factory trolling motor plug and second relay, you'll probably see as much as 30amps.. 


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#38 Dessmo

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Posted 05 January 2021 - 06:26 AM

Very doable.  Your plan is solid.  As for your questions:

- is 10g enough?  With the Orion DC-DC.. it should be at least.  You can monitor the results and upgrade to bigger wires later if necessary.  

- non isolated is fine.  The truck and camper are not isolated already since the wiring joins the "grounds" together.

- When you put in the DC-DC, yes, the Isolator is not needed.  It CAN be used if you use a method rando showed elsewhere on this site.  If I can find time this winter, I may build that system into my truck/camper.  But for now, I took out my isolator.  The downside of the DC-DC system is that your solar panels no longer charge the truck's batteries.

 

Get your parts and then post here when you've read the manuals and still have questions.  We're keen to help out!

Regarding charging the trucks battery from the solar panel. I kept the original wiring on the Fleet in addition to install a new 6awg wire . Using Anderson plugs I can easily change back to the old system charging the truck battery via the solar panel. For daily use I use the new wiring via a Victron DC-DC charger to charge the LifePo battery in the camper. The LifePo battery has a rather high voltage, so I think you might end up opening the BlueSea connection even without any effect from the solar panel. 


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#39 Marvap

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Posted 25 March 2023 - 05:05 PM

If you like your current victron MPPT, keep it and install Victron's Orion DCDC Charger. Avoid Renogy equipment like the plague. Their quality is nowhere near the level of victron equipment. We saw  in three units fail and no longer install any Renogy equipment into any customer rig. 

This is a couple of years old - still feel the same way? I like Victron well enough, but I'm looking for more than 30A capacity in a DC-DC charger (looking at charging 270 AH of lithium battery as quickly as possible from a 400 Amp alternator). Any suggestions?
Thanks!


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#40 Jon R

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Posted 25 March 2023 - 06:05 PM

Two 30 amp Orion 12/12-30 in parallel?
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