81 replies to this topic

[Wallowa]

I have more than enough room on the Yakima rails on the roof of my '16 Hawk to add another 160 w Zamp panel which came with my Hawk.

 

What is involved in wiring it in and what would be the approximate cost [assuming I had the installation done]?  Wished I lived close to FWC in Sacto; but if reasonable, I may have it done in February when I am on the road skiing.  Would then need to identify a competent installer on my route.

 

Having 320 W on roof would definitely give me an edge when off grid in the boondocks and the added weight on the roof when lifting or lowering top would be tolerable.

 

Thanks and would love to hear from someone that has done this.

 

Phil

Edited by Wallowa, 17 November 2020 - 08:33 PM.

[PaulT]

Phil,

Not like yours, but I have the factory 100 watt Zamp panel and a factory roof rack so I just cut some 2" 1/8" thick aluminum angle on which to mount the second panel to the roof rack.

 

Until I replace the 100 watt Zamp with a larger panel, I have just run extension wires to the rear solar socket. It has worked well for me. I use velcro straps to manage the wiring when the top is down.  This has worked well for me and required disturbing no seals around the factory installed top and rear Zamp sockets or the original panel's mounting brackets.

 

I can also parallel in my portable panel into the rear socket as needed.

Paul

[Wallowa]

Paul,

 

Cool idea and thinking outside the box!  Will take the time to scope this out and appreciate the option.

 

Thanks...Phil

[Stan@FourWheel]

KP in Reno is doing a lot of solar and wiring upgrades for FWC customers . . .

 

https://www.sixguntwelvevolt.com/

 

 

 

 

.

[Ruck_and_Roll]

Not sure what type of goods came on a 2016 hawk, but you would probably want to look at the capacity of the solar charge controller you're using.  The wiring would be pretty simple with a splitter to run in parallel.

 

https://www.renogy.c...s-and-parallel/

[Wallowa]

Hey, good info....I assume that the "capacity of the solar charge controller" in question is the amperage it can handle, correct?

 

Iota Q4 in '16 Hawk?  I will check it and then try to calculate the amperage that two 160 w panels would actually produce versus the single 160 w FWC OEM panel we now have..

 

Also, while Reno or Seattle area installers are recommended; we live in far NE corner of Oregon, Enterprise...and traveling to those installers is prohibitive.  However I am still planning my anti-virus    W-E ski tour starting in White Pass and ending near Red Lodge or Billings in Feb so if anyone has a trusted installer along that route, please let me know.

 

Thanks everyone for the support!

 

Phil

Edited by Wallowa, 19 November 2020 - 06:38 PM.

[PaulT]

The IQ4 doesn’t have a current rating. It just controls the current provided by the Iota DLS-30 which can source up to 30 amps. This current does not go through the solar charge controller. It is a separate charging path.

 

The Overland Solar 160 watt panel used by FWC produces about 6 amps.

The Zamp 160 watt panel produces about 9 amps at a lower voltage than the Overland Solar

 

Two Zamp 160 watt panels would produce about 18 amps so your solar charge controller needs to support at least that much. My 2014 Hawk came with a 100 watt Zamp panel and a 15amp Zamp Charge controller. Your camper may have the 30 amp Zamp controller, in which case, you could easily handle two 160 watt panels. 
 

In either case, the Iota doesn’t come into play in your solar calculations.

 

Paul

[Wallowa]

Paul thanks.

 

Boy do I feel ignorant...looking at the Iota DLS-30 on-line it is a converter from AC to DC to charge the batteries while the Iota Q4 is the controller; does DLS also act as the charge controller for amps coming from the solar panels?

 

My portable 80w is a Zamp that I bought with my Hawk [plugs into back of camper jack]; I assume that the roof 160w was also a Zamp.

 

I will check on what is installed and the amp rating; thought I knew but obviously I do not.  If I do have a DLS-30 does that mean I can handle 30 solar amps?  Or is the Iota Q4 the limiter?

 

Appreciate the tutorial!

 

Phil

Edited by Wallowa, 19 November 2020 - 08:41 PM.

[PaulT]

Actually, the DLS-30 with the IQ4 is the battery charger/power supply for the camper DC circuits like lights, fridge, propane and CO alarms, ceiling fans, furnace etc. that runs off of shore power only.  It has nothing to do with solar  power.

 

The solar charging system is used for charging the batteries from solar power only. It is a separate system from the Iota. Both of these systems charge the camper batteries.  The batteries are the only components that actually store DC power for use in the dark and without shore power.

 

There should be a factory installed Zamp solar charge controller, top center in the driver side cabinet, near the sink, that displays voltage, current, and battery state of charge based on battery voltage. On the Zamp unit, you should be able to choose to display volts, amps, or state of charge. In a factory system, that is the only place where digital electrical values are shown.  A very coarse and low accuracy representation of battery charge is available, also, on the panel that also shows how much water remains in the tank.

 

Paul

[Wallowa]

OK got it..

 

Controller is indeed a "Zamp 30Amp"; and, putting another 160W Zamp on the roof in parallel will double my potential amperage to batteries and my 30 amp controller should handle it with ease.

 

So as I understand it, the 110ac to charge batteries and power appliances is via the Iota components and the solar charges the batteries only through the Zamp Controller.....hence, given solar input, the main FWC push/pull power switch can be in either position [in or out] and receive solar battery input.. Two separate systems:  Iota/Controller.

 

I think that is it....

 

Phil