94 replies to this topic

[wicked1]

 

 Everything froze solid. Bundled up overnight and then headed to Winter Park. Finally unfroze when I came into the San Juans and the 2 PVC distribution valves both cracked. Easy replacement and I added insulation around those and everywhere else I could as well.

Wow, they've completely changed the plumbing from what I have in my 2015 fleet. 

I'm wrapping my pipes with 12v heat tape, to solve this problem.  You could likely do that as well, around that distribution piece. 
I'm just doing manual control for now, but it would be easy to wire it to a thermostat.

[ckent323]

wicked1,

Exactly!

I bought a 2 rolls of reflectix to wrap around the pop up section but I was fussing about how to make it easy to put on and take off.  I was planning to use glue on velcro tabs and was unsure how long the tabs would stay in place because I have had problems with adhesive backed velcro coming off before.  

Shortly afterwards I came across the canvas deck rail covering from the closed restaurant and that led me to the idea to use screw in snaps in place of some of the camper body screws and attach the canvas wrap, having pockets in the canvas to hold reflectix or some other insulating material, to the camper with the snaps.  Also I realized that the canvas would be sturdier and less prone to punctures and rips.

I am engaged in a lot of multi week out of state contract work until May so it is going to be a few months before I pick this up again.

Edited by ckent323, 26 March 2022 - 08:30 AM.

[wicked1]

I'm interested to hear how well it works.
It will definitely function as a wind break and keep the hot sun off the sides.   In the summer, I think the shade would be an incredible help.
My observations of insulation though, like if you're hoping to get a good R value from the air gap, has made it seem like it really has to be sealed to work well.   If it's 10 degrees outside.  You have a sealed air gap, that inner air could be 30, and your camper could be 50.  While, if it's not sealed, that air gap will be 10 degrees, just like outside.  (I suppose it's more complex than that, and depends on how much leakage and the wind, etc)
 

I've got a couple rolls of that reflectix.. Maybe I'll do a test some day to see what difference it makes keeping the heat in, between tacked up, to completely sealed. 

[Wallowa]

It’s not too bad at all.  You can also use som construction foam, then use the snap curtains to hold it in place to make it even better.

 

 

With a foil side, I have cut insulating foam board to fit my side and front windows and as SB says, used the curtains to hold them in place...easy to store and remove.

 

Lots of words spilled about trying to insulate a FWC to prevent plumbing from freezing and to lessen either heat loss or over-heating in summer...still of the mind that at best such efforts are very marginal...covering the window openings in the pop up fabric not only turns the interior in to a dark cave, but greatly loses any cross ventilation...

 

Effectively insulating stick homes in cold weather is a toss-up but trying to insulate a trailer or FWC to retain and maintain heat inside will always be a losing proposition...burn propane, drain water and you can enjoy the FWC in below zero outside temps...

 

Hey, I could be wrong!  

Edited by Wallowa, 26 March 2022 - 04:22 PM.

[Wallowa]

Not certain why this tread is so long lived...if you leave water in your system and it goes seriously cold [single digits or lower] then something will freeze and or break...

 

I routinely camp in below zero while skiing...no water in system...7 gallon jug for water inside with me...no catalytic heater since all combustion produces CO and I am adverse to that  ....good down sleeping bag and with my solar panels and LiPO4 BB heated battery I always have power and propane to keep the heater going inside if needed or in AM to heat up my ski boots..

 

Look you can add insulation panels/boards/sheets [I have] "until hell freezes over" and a FWC is impossible to add truly effective insulation to in near zero conditions or even prolonged single digit temps...just will not happen.

 

When possible I use two hedges; a small plug in AC cube electric heater if power box is available at ski area.  Backcountry I sometimes need to run DC/DC power to bring the BB charge up due to snow on panels or clouds.. tedious to brush snow off top, but often necessary...

 

Again, this is not rocket science and I wish there was a simplistic one-size-fits-all way to prevent our water systems from freezing in severe cold...ain't going to happen....enjoy what we have, beat the hell out of a tent....

 

Phil

 

Least you forget, PG antifreeze kills cats...be careful where you drain your system..only water in our system.

Edited by Wallowa, 11 November 2023 - 03:52 PM.