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Battery Compartment Dimensions, Grandby/Hawk Front Dinette


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#21 Jon R

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 04:11 AM

Thanks for the suggestion Brian. I’m open to all possibilities, and plan to take a good look at the options when I receive the new camper. However, my initial thought is it seems like moving the batteries would involve a lot more rewiring since FWC will have routed the solar panel and truck wiring to the battery compartment.

Question: It sounds like maybe you have A BB 100 Ah Battery. Their web site says it is 9.0 inches tall. If it’s easy for you to do, could you please check that measurement for me? I’m concerned you said 10” because my scheme depends on it being less than 9.5”. Thanks

Edited by Jon R, 21 January 2021 - 04:15 AM.

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#22 Vic Harder

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 06:05 AM

100 Ah 12V LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery | Battle Born Batteries

 

dimensions above.   I just measured mine, and I'd call it 9.25, but it was awkward getting a good look at the angle.  9.5" clearance is super tight, but should work.  The highest point is the power terminals.  Make sure your design keeps them far enough apart from each other, please.   :D


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#23 BrianG

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 06:41 AM

I was just estimating there height, I knew they were somewhere between 9 and 10”s. I’m going thru the same process as you Jon, in April I’ll be removing my 2 75ah AGMs and replacing them with lithium. Probably will only go with one 100ah BB (heated), but am looking at all the possibilities. There is enough space for 3 50ah BB’s in the original battery compartment, sitting in there normal upright position. 


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#24 Jon R

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 05:37 PM

Thanks for the helpful replies. 

 

Right now I am planning to either stack two standard BB 100Ah batteries (not GC2) on their long sides or place two on their ends next to each other against the forward wall of the Grandby front dinette battery compartment (aft driver side bottom cabinet).  (Stacking gives a slightly smaller total battery width, allowing more room to install charge controllers on the West side wall aft of the batteries within the compartment, but I'll only stack them if I have to to get the chargers in.)  The terminal side (normally the top) of the battery will be facing the door opening, so the terminals of the batteries will be positively isolated from each other.  The dimension from the West wall of the camper to the inside of the front, or East, wall of the compartment is 9.5 inches, so a 9.25" terminal "height" will work even with some foam padding.  The door itself is 0.5 inches further out.   Because the battery connections will be right inside the door, I will need to make sure the positive terminals are robustly covered to make sure nobody causes a problem if they open that compartment. 

 

I will post photos of whatever I end up doing.  I don't actually get the camper until May, so it will be a while.  I'm trying to make decisions now and get the parts ordered just in case there is a problem obtaining parts later in the Spring. 


Edited by Jon R, 21 January 2021 - 05:38 PM.

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#25 Jon R

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 11:10 PM

Here is a picture the Battleborn support person sent to me.  It has more detail than the specs on the web site.  The aspect ratio changed when I pasted it, but it's still readable. 

SVw3188GI0y34hiY9i2BxVxD6?token=eyJhbGci


Edited by Jon R, 21 January 2021 - 11:19 PM.

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#26 PaulT

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 08:52 AM

One advantage of the GC2 over mounting the standard Battleborn is that both terminals are on top with easy access for wires.  Before committing to the above configuration, ensure that you can route a cable to the terminal lug at the bottom, It may be a little tight to route the bottom cable between the battery and the door to the cabinet and up to the other equipment or to get a wrench on the bolt or nut for tightening.

 

Paul


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#27 Jon R

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 06:57 PM

Thanks Paul. That had occurred to me as well. There’s plenty of room in the cabinet to block the batteries higher if needed for terminal access, but I was going to figure out if I need to do that once I actually have the camper and batteries. I know I have to be able to meet a connection bolt torque requirement, and getting wrench onto both nut and bolt head will be necessary. I’ll take more detailed look at it before ordering the batteries as you suggest. I’m pretty sure that, worst case, I can raise each battery temporarily on a block to make the lower connects, then lower the battery into the final position. I’m thinking that, like you do when working on a car, even though the cabinet is wood, you’d want to connect the negative last and disconnect It first, so I’d put the positive terminals in the low position. I welcome advice though.

Edited by Jon R, 22 January 2021 - 07:33 PM.

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