183 replies to this topic

[Vic Harder]

That's creative!  

[lmwilco1]

Check out the Anderson Power Pole SBE80, I am not sure how easy it is to get but it looks like a good fit.

 

https://www.mouser.c...tGFj7R1M1bczA==

 

 

Louis

Thanks for taking time to answer my question!  

 

I've spent a silly amount of time looking to see if there is a plug that would combine a high amp connector with pins for the running lights.

 

The Aussies have something close--combining an Anderson plug receptacle with a 7 pin.

 

https://www.ebay.com...275.c1#viTabs_0

[ntsqd]

I'm not sure which do it, but I am under the impression that later trucks have parallel circuits for their trailer light receptacles. Which means that the trailer lights are NOT on the same fuses as the truck's lights. If that is the case then I would split the lights at the backside of the trailer light receptacle.

 

Some of the aftermarket receptacles have an "adapter" that connects between the receptacle itself and the wiring going to it that allows for a second receptacle to be mounted in the bed where a fifth wheel trailer would want it to be. Using these parts should result in a robust, water resistant or even water tight solution for camper lighting, be it only clearance lights or everything.

[Jon R]

I'm not sure which do it, but I am under the impression that later trucks have parallel circuits for their trailer light receptacles. Which means that the trailer lights are NOT on the same fuses as the truck's lights. If that is the case then I would split the lights at the backside of the trailer light receptacle.

Some of the aftermarket receptacles have an "adapter" that connects between the receptacle itself and the wiring going to it that allows for a second receptacle to be mounted in the bed where a fifth wheel trailer would want it to be. Using these parts should result in a robust, water resistant or even water tight solution for camper lighting, be it only clearance lights or everything.

Yes, Curt makes wire bundles just as you describe that tie in via the factory connector on the back of the bumper trailer connector.

The problem with using these for your light connections on late model trucks (at least GM) is that the truck detects a trailer connection and disables features that you may not want disabled when using a camper. I ended up connecting to my truck’s marker light circuit rather than using the trailer circuits for this reason.

[Utah]

My Grandby is due to arrive in mid-May, and I am firming up my electrical power configuration. I have most of the equipment now, but won't have the battery until late April.

I am installing a 200Ah LiFePO battery that will take up nearly 1/3 of the volume of the Grandby battery compartment (battery is 10.5"L x 7.5"W x 12" H). I plan to install a Victron MPPT 100/30 and Orion 12/12-30 in that compartment on the side wall opposite the door. I was planning to put the Orion above the solar charger, with the top of the Orion 4 inches below the top of the compartment. I could swap the position and put the Orion in the low position. The compartment will have about 1.5 cubic feet of remaining open volume with the battery and the two chargers installed, with most of that open volume around the chargers. However, there is no ventilation other than a tiny exterior vent and leakage around the door foam seal. Do you think the Orion will have the self-throttling issue in this environment?

Jon - I am curious about this post now because I am currently planning to install a 170Ah LiFeO battery along with a Victron Orion 12/12-30 DC-DC charger inside my Hawk battery compartment. Have you had any issues with heat buildup while using your DC-DC charger? What did you end up doing to improve ventilation (if anything)? I have been thinking about either adding a 12Vdc fan or modifying the door to include vents.

Also, are you happy with the Orion 12/12-30 DC-DC charger? Would you consider something else if you were doing it again? My current plan is to only charge my battery when the truck is running using the DC-DC charger.

Piet

[Vic Harder]

The Orion 30A charger has been working really well for me. It is surprising how hot it gets compared to the other Victron components.

I added ventilation holes and 75cfm fan to keep it cool. The fan is controlled by a 45*C thermistor that i placed loosely between the cooling fins.

[Jon R]

Jon - I am curious about this post now because I am currently planning to install a 170Ah LiFeO battery along with a Victron Orion 12/12-30 DC-DC charger inside my Hawk battery compartment. Have you had any issues with heat buildup while using your DC-DC charger? What did you end up doing to improve ventilation (if anything)? I have been thinking about either adding a 12Vdc fan or modifying the door to include vents.

Also, are you happy with the Orion 12/12-30 DC-DC charger? Would you consider something else if you were doing it again? My current plan is to only charge my battery when the truck is running using the DC-DC charger.

Piet

Hi Piet,

I never ended up doing any ventilation modification to my battery compartment. The Orion has been working fine for me and I have not been aware of it cutting back the charging current due to high temperature. On the other hand, I don’t end up using it for long periods in warm weather because I have 400 watts of solar panels and in warm weather the solar keeps up. I have remembered to check the Orion’s surface temperature a few times at rest stops when charging and it was warm but did not seem excessively hot.

I am happy with the Orion and recommend it to others.

I still may make a ventilated compartment door, but primarily to keep the compartment warmer in winter camping.

Edited by Jon R, 03 December 2022 - 03:47 AM.

[ntsqd]

Yes, Curt makes wire bundles just as you describe that tie in via the factory connector on the back of the bumper trailer connector.

The problem with using these for your light connections on late model trucks (at least GM) is that the truck detects a trailer connection and disables features that you may not want disabled when using a camper. I ended up connecting to my truck’s marker light circuit rather than using the trailer circuits for this reason.

 

What sorts of features get disabled?

 

This whole epidemic of "we know better than you do what you should have and not have" programming, even if correct, really gets under my skin. I'm going to step off my soap box before I really get started.......
 

[Jon R]

Rear parking assist (warning as you get close to something) and rear cross traffic alert both are disabled if the truck thinks a trailer is connected (2021 GMC 3500hd). Both alerts are very useful if a bed-length camper is installed and they work fine.

I don’t think it’s so much a nanny-engineer thing as it is a trailer-causes-false-alerts-so-let’s-turn-it-off thing.

Edited by Jon R, 03 December 2022 - 04:59 PM.

[Utah]

Regarding LiFePO4 battery maintenance and life, should I be thinking about my new battery differently?  Converting now to LiFePO4.  I have trained myself to charge my old AGM batteries at every opportunity when traveling (no solar, charging from truck).  I also have topped them off with an external charger after each trip and then every month or so when my camper is just sitting in the garage.  Do I understand correctly that LiFePO4 batteries do not like to be left sitting at 100% SOC?   Should I aim to have the battery at a lower SOC when I arrive home from a trip and the camper will be parked in my garage for a while? If so, what would be the maximum SOC?  (Note - I use a Victron BMV-712 battery monitor in the camper).

 

Appreciate any member comments... 

 

Vic - this thread (and others) have been a great resource. Thanks for organizing.

Jon - thanks for your reply.