183 replies to this topic

[Vic Harder]

I added a high CFM fan with a 40*C thermostat to my system to deal with high temps

[Jon R]

I was thinking I'd first try pulling off the compartment door and replacing it with a vented door.  

[BWBratt]

 Truck Hawk DC-DC Charger Wiring Plan.jpg   171.58K   77 downloadsHi Vic,

Thanks for starting this thread--I really appreciate the detail and advice.  I just bought a new truck and I have a 2001 Hawk.  The the previous owner had a 3-way connection outside the camper between the camper battery, the camper electrical system and a 7-pin connector from the hitch.  With the new truck, I wanted to clean that up and reroute everything through a small cabinet I built.

 

Attached is my diagram of the system I built over the past few (learning-filled) weekends, and was wondering if I am forgetting anything?

 

Thanks!

Blake

[Vic Harder]

Blake, that looks good in terms of the truck/camper connection.  Do you have solar as well?  Does the Hawk have the factory kill switch before the factory 12V fuse panel?  What about battery monitoring?

[BWBratt]

Thanks for the thumbs up, Vic!

 

I do not have solar.  I am considering a new camper in the next few years, so I didn't go all in on the latest plan.  I have left enough room in the cabinet for a solar charger, or could I swap out the current DC-DC charger for a MPPT (although I think I read in one of your or Rando's posts that the Renogy MPPT does work that well?). I also left room for a passthrough next to the 4AWG wires coming into the side of the camper to connect to a portable panel if I get that far--I am trying to balance using the camper and spending money/working on the camper

 

There is no factory kill switch before the fuse box.  I could easily add one, either inside the new cabinet or near the fuse box.  If I am thinking correctly, the BlueSea breakers enable me to cut the connection to the truck, and the kill switch would enable me to easily shut the camper circuit off when I wanted to work on it, storage, etc.?

 

I currently have a "dummy" monitor near the sink that displays water tank and battery conditions--red, yellow, green--that must be original equipment.  Any suggestions on a monitor that is close to plug and play?

 

Thanks again!

Blake

[ri-f]

Truck Hawk DC-DC Charger Wiring Plan.jpg

 

Attached is my diagram of the system I built over the past few (learning-filled) weekends, and was wondering if I am forgetting anything?

Looking at your diagram I would think that you would want to put that 2nd Blue Seas breaker between the camper battery and the DC-DC charger, or if you're using that 2nd breaker as a step down from 4 AWG to 6 AWG (you'll most likely need to use 6 AWG in/out of your charger, it won't accept 4 AWG) instead of a power bar bus, then why not put another Blue Seas breaker between the DC-DC and camper battery.   Rich
 

Edited by ri-f, 25 May 2021 - 04:41 PM.

[Vic Harder]

Thanks for the thumbs up, Vic!

 

I do not have solar.  I am considering a new camper in the next few years, so I didn't go all in on the latest plan.  I have left enough room in the cabinet for a solar charger, or could I swap out the current DC-DC charger for a MPPT (although I think I read in one of your or Rando's posts that the Renogy MPPT does work that well?). I also left room for a passthrough next to the 4AWG wires coming into the side of the camper to connect to a portable panel if I get that far--I am trying to balance using the camper and spending money/working on the camper

 

There is no factory kill switch before the fuse box.  I could easily add one, either inside the new cabinet or near the fuse box.  If I am thinking correctly, the BlueSea breakers enable me to cut the connection to the truck, and the kill switch would enable me to easily shut the camper circuit off when I wanted to work on it, storage, etc.?

 

I currently have a "dummy" monitor near the sink that displays water tank and battery conditions--red, yellow, green--that must be original equipment.  Any suggestions on a monitor that is close to plug and play?

 

Thanks again!

Blake

This one comes close to plug and play 

Amazon.com: Victron Energy SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor (Bluetooth): Automotive

[ntsqd]

I'm with Rich (good catch btw!), breakers between a battery and everything else. They can't protect anything upstream from them, and using one to turn off the battery leaves some stuff still live if they aren't the very first stop. I try to make the wire from the battery to the breaker as short as possible by placing the breaker near/next to the battery.

[Charlie]

I’m adding an Orion 12/12-30 charger to my 2019 Hawk, and this thread has been very useful. 

 

I’ll be using 6AWG wire. There are three wires. I want to replace the “trolling motor plug”. I’m wondering what panel mount receptacle/plug people are using on the truck body?

 

Everyone talks about Anderson Powerpole or SB connectors, but I can’t seem to find an appropriate panel mount. Powerwerx sells one for 4 conductor Powerpole, but this doesn’t support 6AWG. They sell one that will work for  the SB50 (works with 6AWG), but it is only 2 conductor.

 

Or maybe there is a different approach to this problem? 

 

https://powerwerx.co...pole-black-dual

https://powerwerx.co...l-chassis-mount

[Jon R]

I used separate connectors. I used an SB50 for the 6awg positive and negative and a flat 4 for the running lights (only using two of the conductors).