2 replies to this topic

[TheHunch]

I am in the process of designing a truck camper. It is an aluminum construction with signabond exterior cladding, Insulation, and then wood interior walls. 1.5" 11-12g aluminum square tubing (overkill?).

 

The roof will be a full pop top and I am having trouble designing the seal and understanding how to make to make it look clean and flush when down while also being as watertight as possible. Can someone show me what a section cut of the pop top seals look like or point me into  direction where there are some available?

 

I understand I would use a Bulb style rubber trim, but I'm confused on how the canvas meets the bottom half of the unit without having water intrusion.

Edited by TheHunch, 02 August 2021 - 08:36 PM.

[2Z Bundok]

Our '97 Shadow Cruiser uses outside corner trim as coping.  The canvas laps over the siding, then the outside corner is placed with screw track to siding face and non screw face up so the lid will contact it.  Screws installed through siding and covered with the vinyl strip.  I believe there is butyl sealant "tape" to help seal the screws as on all other corners that don't have canvas.  Also a separate additional piece of rubber (~2") is used on the 4 corners creating a pocket or cup facing up and filled with sealant/caulk about 2 oz.

Happy Build

[Beach]

When closed the top overlaps the camper sides. The weather seal(hollow tube type) is just around the front and about 30" down each side and is compressed between the top and sides. For the remainder of the sides and the back of the camper there is no seal, the canvas itself acts as the seal. The seal in the frontal section keeps rain from being driven up under/into the overlap and into camper window closure. If I was building a camper, I would be more generous with the amount of vertical overlap, maybe 1/2"-1"