Jump to content


Photo

Picking up 2000 Alaskan, truck and trip preparation for newbie


  • Please log in to reply
14 replies to this topic

#11 Vic Harder

Vic Harder

    Doctor Electric

  • Site Team
  • 4,959 posts
  • LocationCalgary, Alberta

Posted 29 August 2021 - 05:00 PM

Lots of good reading Vic. Wiring/charging/batteries is going to be a pretty important part of leaving the grid. Unless someone talks me out of it, I think for now I need to make an operational plug, get the camper, and bring it home. Then I will dig in and see exactly what I have and how I can improve it. The current owner is using the factory wiring, so a 4 wire cord with the 7 pin plug on it.
So I think for now I will wire my standard 7 pin round plug with the 10 gauge power wires and 14 gauge marker/brake wires so I have something for the trip home. I am heading into this blind, and I think it will be much easier setting this all up properly when I have the camper here.

that's a workable solution.  


  • 0

#12 Dr.Science

Dr.Science

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 45 posts

Posted 29 August 2021 - 08:15 PM

On power supply: A DC-DC charger (Renogy makes a good one) is useful. Your truck will have an AWG 8 hot wire in the camper/trailer harness which is adequate to support charging voltage. The DC-DC charger will "tell" your truck that it needs to supply full charging current until the camper battery is fully charged, and will prevent the camper battery from discharging the truck battery. It needs a wire (AWG 18 or 20 is adequate) to the fuse box to tell it when the truck engine is running, and this is separate from the 7-pin wiring harness. Easy to route. 

 

Other stuff: ratchet strap to hold the Alaskan top down, unless it comes equipped with a lock to prevent it from rising up. Ratchet straps to hold the camper in the truck until you get the tie-downs installed. Other replies have covered the fitting issues you may have with a late model truck and an older camper.


  • 0

#13 Aquadoc

Aquadoc

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 14 posts

Posted 30 October 2022 - 09:22 PM

Sean S, or anyone else, how did the fit work out? I am heading down to LA to pick up a 2014 8.5CO, she’ll ride in my 16 2500 Duramax. Has anyone had any fitting problems? My Homie just picked up a 20 8’ CO in a 22 3500 he said it was tight, and he used 1x4s under the floor and has about 2” of headroom above his cab. I’m stopping by the shop on my way down to talk to the guys at Alaska (45miles south of me) BUT wanted to check on here to get insight.
Thanks,
Pete

Edited by Aquadoc, 30 October 2022 - 09:23 PM.

  • 0

#14 Vic Harder

Vic Harder

    Doctor Electric

  • Site Team
  • 4,959 posts
  • LocationCalgary, Alberta

Posted 31 October 2022 - 08:19 PM

I have a 2015 Silverado, and the rounded corners of the box at the tailgate can be a problem.  I chose to put 1/2" of rigid insulation under the camper to lift it just enough to clear (also massaged the camper a bit to get it to fit - ATC Puma - not an Alaskan though)


  • 0

#15 Aquadoc

Aquadoc

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 14 posts

Posted 03 November 2022 - 02:43 AM

Thanks all WHELP I’m sitting in her right now thinking of a name. 3days @ 700+- miles per day (when I was 17 I made that run in 17 hrs… 80’s JA!!! ) But this old Man is smoked, but brought home a Beute! Previous owner and Brother were AWESOME, while waiting for the wire they walked me through everything, except for a lil electrolysis , strange-ish since she’s lived in LA AND Lake Havesu, since released from the nursery. She fit like a glove. I got 2x4s just in case But I’ll bump down to 1x4s, as I’ve got 3” of Cabover clearance, 2” salvage mat on the rails and front bulkhead of the bed and the wheel well cavities should be rain “proof”
  • 1




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users