20 replies to this topic

[Smars00l]

Very new to camper life. I plan to take my 2006 Granby in a long ski road trip this year. I read the posts about draining the water tanks… but what is the best way to prevent freezing pipes, etc when you’re camper is in use during freezing temps? I’m sure this questions has been addressed many times but I didn’t find a solution for what to do when you’re living in the camper too.
Thanks!

[Jon R]

There are strategies to be able to use the water system in moderate subfreezing temperatures, but the safest bet, especially if you are going to spend much of your days away from the camper, is to drain and winterize the system in your preferred manner, and camp without using the water system.

[Smars00l]

Ok. Good points. The sink would be very useful to use on a long road trip though.

[Wandering Sagebrush]

To clear the pipes, my preferred method is to use low pressure (no more than 60 PSI) compressed air to blow out the lines.  You can buy a plastic fitting that screws into your city water port, then connect the air hose to it.   Even a bike pump will work.   Open each valve and run the air until no more water comes through.   I do each line several times.  

 

Regarding the water tank, it’s done first, then run the pump until nothing comes out of the tap.  Again, I do this several times.  Prof Google and Dr YouTube will have tutorials.

[rando]

We use out water system in the winter, but it takes some care and depends on just how wintery your winter is.    If your are talking about using it where the highest temperature will be significantly below freezing, then it is probably not worth the risk.  However for desert SW type conditions (think southern Utah, Nevada, New Mexico) where it is typically at or a bit above freezing during the day, then it works pretty well.   

 

There is no issue at night with the furnace running and the hot water heater warmed up, if it is going down to the single digits we will also open the cabinet doors.  If it is at or just below freezing during the day, we will heat up the hot water tank in the morning and leave it on, which provides a bunch of heat and thermal ballast to the cabinet where the plumbing is.   You can also heat the water heater, and dump it back into the water tank, which will keep that nice and warm for many hours. 

 

I also have an on board air compressor, a blow out fitting and an empty jerry can.   If it looks like if we will hit really cold weather, I can fill the jerry can from the camper tank (to still have water), then winterize the camper with the compressor in about 15 minutes. 

Edited by rando, 04 December 2021 - 02:23 AM.

[Smars00l]

Rando- that was extremely helpful. Thank you so much!

[Jon R]

I’d be wary of making a hard air connection to the water system with 60 psi. If you make a mistake and close everything 60 psi could cause damage. I dial my compressor regulator down to 10 psi and also use a short section of surgical tubing slipped onto the purge fitting with no clamp to act as a pressure fuse at just a few psi.

[SigSanDiego]

We use out water system in the winter, but it takes some care and depends on just how wintery your winter is. If your are talking about using it where the highest temperature will be significantly below freezing, then it is probably not worth the risk. However for desert SW type conditions (think southern Utah, Nevada, New Mexico) where it is typically at or a bit above freezing during the day, then it works pretty well.

There is no issue at night with the furnace running and the hot water heater warmed up, if it is going down to the single digits we will also open the cabinet doors. If it is at or just below freezing during the day, we will heat up the hot water tank in the morning and leave it on, which provides a bunch of heat and thermal ballast to the cabinet where the plumbing is. You can also heat the water heater, and dump it back into the water tank, which will keep that nice and warm for many hours.

I also have an on board air compressor, a blow out fitting and an empty jerry can. If it looks like if we will hit really cold weather, I can fill the jerry can from the camper tank (to still have water), then winterize the camper with the compressor in about 15 minutes.

Heat water heater and dump back into water tank?

As in, use outside shower hose and open water fill cap and spray hot water back to 20gal tank?

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I’d be wary of making a hard air connection to the water system with 60 psi. If you make a mistake and close everything 60 psi could cause damage. I dial my compressor regulator down to 10 psi and also use a short section of surgical tubing slipped onto the purge fitting with no clamp to act as a pressure fuse at just a few psi.

 

 

“Residential water pressure tends to range between 45 and 80 psi (pounds per square inch). Anything below 40 psi is considered low and anything below 30 psi is considered too low; the minimum pressure required by most codes is 20 psi. Pressures above 80 psi are too high.”  Prof Google

[rando]

Heat water heater and dump back into water tank?

As in, use outside shower hose and open water fill cap and spray hot water back to 20gal tank?

 

Open the drain back valve on the water heater (the lower valve in the cabinet with the hot water heater) then open the hot tap on the sink, just as if you were draining the hot water heater.   Assuming your water tank is not totally full, the hot water will drain back into the water tank.  You can then close the valve, refill the water heater and repeat if you want to get the water tank warmer.  

Edited by rando, 04 December 2021 - 05:02 AM.