Thanks for the replies. 17" do fit. Still not sure what route I will take, but there is no hurry. I plan on wearing out the OEM tires and that will give me more time to think about it.
Wheel (rim) Size Question
#11
Posted 22 December 2021 - 12:29 PM
#12
Posted 22 December 2021 - 01:32 PM
#13
Posted 22 December 2021 - 04:40 PM
Low profile truck tires are for the lookin cool/status crowd, nothing to do with what we at WW need/use them for.
#14
Posted 24 December 2021 - 03:12 PM
Edited by Jon R, 24 December 2021 - 03:13 PM.
Jon R
2021 Grandby Slide-in Front Dinette
2021 GMC 3500HD CC LB SRW Gas
1993 Chevrolet K2500 Ext Cab LB
#15
Posted 27 December 2021 - 06:03 AM
On my 2021 RAM, I went with 18x9 Method Race wheels, forged aluminum, just the right offset to easily clear 35's with stock suspension and 37's with 2 1/2-3" lift. These have a 4000# load rating, each. The ones with the extra ribs that act like a bead lock, but don't look like one.
Then went with 295/70-18 Cooper AT3, 34.5" dia, also with a 4000# load rating. The spare will 'just' fit under the bed. Makes a squeak when you squeeze it in there. I run 50 psi front and 35 psi back when empty. Rides very good, but I have a 2500 with coils and the Bilstens.
The stock RAM rims only have a 3500# rating, they are cast now and a little heavy.
2013 RAM, Four Wheel Camper Shell, KTM's
#16
Posted 10 January 2022 - 12:09 AM
What you are experiencing are the affects of your center-of-gravity moving farther away from your system's roll-center. Since you are driving a 3500 and the Bundutec is only 1,650 lbs. it seems that everything is in order. You also mentioned that you have around 1,500 of additional payload to spare which makes me think you have an optimum load for your vehicle. It would be interesting to find the height of the Bundutec's center-of-gravity although I suspect it is acceptable since companies do their best to keep the heavy parts down low and towards the center.
What is interesting is that you mention everything feeling fine on normal roads. If you really had a significant roll problem I don't believe you would feel this way. Now off-road is another mode for the suspension to deal with and I too have experienced the back-and-forth rolling motion on uneven terrain. If you wish to smooth things out off road it seems like a front anti-sway bar disconnect would offer the most improvement. If you did opt for the AEV Salta HD 17x8.5 rims with 35" tires you could air them down to 15-20 psi off road which would slow your roll rate down also although not anything compared to disconnecting your front anti-sway bar (off-road only). BTW - AEV are the only rims sold by a manufacturer who has performed the necessary calculations for proper off-set, scrub radius, etc. relative to suspension lift, tire size, etc.
Although this does not seem necessary for RAMs with stock suspension, the only other way to reduce roll is to move the roll-center up closer to the new center-of-gravity. This is what AEV does with engineered panhard bar brackets for the front and rear axles. Of course, once the panhard rods are moved now the drag-link must be relocated also since those two items must remain parallel to eliminate bump-steer.
In closing, please do not permit any uneducated person to convince you to install a "torsion sway bar" which is simply a weaker front anti-roll bar which will immediately increase oversteer and place yourself and others at risk on the road.
Edited by ramblinChet, 10 January 2022 - 12:12 AM.
#17
Posted 10 January 2022 - 12:22 AM
CG can be measured and calculated, it is work, but it's not that hard to do.
For the whole vehicle you need separate front and rear axle weights. Then you need a third weight for either axle, but with the vehicle at as much of an angle fore/aft as you can manage and accurately measure. The difference in the flat weight and the "angled" weight with some trig will give you the height of the CG.
If you think that the side to side weight distribution isn't equal or close then you'll need L/R weights as well.
Where does that road go?
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