21 replies to this topic

[billharr]

Lug wrenches that come on most vehicles are not good. One handle and at an angle. I have always replaced with a old style cross or X style wrench. Two years ago a friend had a flat when we were off road. He jacked up his truck, put a jack stand under the axle (you should carry a jack stand). Out comes his cordless 1/2 inch impact wrench. One of the first things I purchased for my new van was a cordless 1/2 impact wrench. And yes it is for removal only, never used to tighten a lug nut. 

[Jon R]

It is a good idea to do some reading on dry torque versus wet torque if you decide to use anti-sieze compound. Installing wet increases bolt tension about 20% versus dry at a given torque. This matters in some situations. Most owner’s and shop manuals I’ve seen specifically call for clean, dry installation of lug nuts/bolts.

[Vic Harder]

Installing wet increases bolt tension about 20% versus dry at a given torque.

Meaning we should reduce the torque by 20% when using lube?

[JaSAn]

It is a good idea to do some reading on dry torque versus wet torque if you decide to use anti-sieze compound. Installing wet increases bolt tension about 20% versus dry at a given torque. This matters in some situations. Most owner’s and shop manuals I’ve seen specifically call for clean, dry installation of lug nuts/bolts.

 

True.  But those specs were created for a clean, dry, un-corroded thread; something I won't see after a winter in Minnesota.  Most lug threads here will have a resistive drag from corrosion that gives a higher torque reading, resulting in less than the desired bolt stretch (under tightening).

[Foy]

Lug wrenches that come on most vehicles are not good. One handle and at an angle. I have always replaced with a old style cross or X style wrench. Two years ago a friend had a flat when we were off road. He jacked up his truck, put a jack stand under the axle (you should carry a jack stand). Out comes his cordless 1/2 inch impact wrench. One of the first things I purchased for my new van was a cordless 1/2 impact wrench. And yes it is for removal only, never used to tighten a lug nut. 

 

X2 on the 4-way lug wrench.  I always keep one aboard specifically because of the crappy angle and resulting lack of real leverage the OEM lug wrench provides.  In these modern times, I keep a Klutch 1/2" drive cordless impact wrench and a set of deep well impact sockets aboard, also. For a more precise set-up on using the 4-way, a jack stand can be positioned to hold the opposite leg of the 4-way in a position more perpendicular to the wheel and can act to better allow application of some "foot torque" to the problem.  One wonders if  your lug studs would have sheared off as readily if not for the angled force which standing on the OEM wrench created.  

 

Foy

[Jon R]

Meaning we should reduce the torque by 20% when using lube?

If similar bolt tension is your goal then yes, but there’s also the concern of the nut loosening to consider. Personally, I keep the studs and nuts clean, loosen and retorque every year on vehicles that don’t get tires rotated, and I don’t use lubricant or anti-sieze compound. I live near Seattle where road salt isn’t used, so that works for me. I understand others live in high corrosion areas and use other practices. However, if you are choosing not to follow the manufacturer’s recommendation on a critical fastener, it should be based on knowledge of the effects.

[JHanson]

This article on Overland Tech and Travel might help. 

[Machinebuilder]

Lug wrenches that come on most vehicles are not good. One handle and at an angle. I have always replaced with a old style cross or X style wrench. Two years ago a friend had a flat when we were off road. He jacked up his truck, put a jack stand under the axle (you should carry a jack stand). Out comes his cordless 1/2 inch impact wrench. One of the first things I purchased for my new van was a cordless 1/2 impact wrench. And yes it is for removal only, never used to tighten a lug nut. 

If you get the proper Torque limiting extension (torque stick)  you are fine to use the impact wrench to install the lug nuts.

 

I carry my 1/2 Milwauke in my truck and have a 140ftlb torque stick with the right size impact socket. (factory spec is 150 ftlb +-10).

I checked it after I got it and it is extremely consistent.

 

With that high of a torque a 4 way didn't work well for me, I used to carry a long 1/2" breaker bar.

[craig333]

In another life (back when I was young man) I once had a tire come off my Jeep and roll down the hill. Fortunately it was on a trail at an extremely slow speed and another participant had spare lug nuts. Another time in an old dodge I lost two lug nuts and the other three had wallowed out the holes to the point I had to be towed. 

 

Pay attention to odd vibrations. On the Jeep I thought I had a u-joint going bad. 

 

I carry X-style wrenches in both vehicles. Since I started using anti-seize I've never had an issue with lugs coming loose. I've had pretty good luck just using my "that feels about right" type torqueing. Probably a good idea to check the lugs about the same time you check the tie downs.

[AWG_Pics]

In another life (back when I was young man)  [Thanks Craig!] I worked evenings and weekends at my dad's gas station. I fixed a lot of flats, changed a lot of tires. Got pretty good at lug nut tightening. Also learned to fear split rims as if they were bombs -- ready to explode if not handled just right. I do have a mechanical torque wrench. Works pretty well. Also use a star wrench. I have the dealer rotate the tires during regular service. Eyeball the lugs afterwards, and carefully listen/feel for anything not right after the service work. Sometimes in years past I have found loose lug nuts. The OEM wrench is pathetic, but if you use a cheater bar and don't let anything twist from perpendicular, even a little, you should be o.k.