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#11 buckland

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Posted 18 August 2022 - 10:51 AM

Thanks all for your replies. It is always good to hear how other folks do things and pick up valuable info. We are fortunate to live rural and have a deep well with ultra pure spring water. It is always 48 degrees when it comes out of the faucet and has absolutely no taste. 

That said when we go on long trips and we use all of our own water it is hard to drink other stuff. 

 

I too use 1/4 cup bleach in 20 gallons of water and let it sit all night at the start of the season. I have to winterize it with the RV antifreeze and have to flush the system a few times to get that all out. When we leave here in the winter the tank will be winterized so will have to leave it that way unless I can find a spigot (I carry the hose in the wheel well area. I then carry (2) the suitcase water 2.5 gallons. 

 

It seems like we all have similar habits on cleaning the pipes/tank. I wonder at what point the tanks need replacing ? I am probably overthinking it as usual!

Rob


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#12 michelle_east_county

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Posted 20 August 2022 - 05:19 PM

For storage areas warm enough to not need winterization, we'd been told to leave tanks full as one can never really drain them and get them completely dry unless you run a lot of (low pressure to be safe) clean compressed air throughout the system. There are very dilute solution ratios of bleach one can add for long-term storage or even so dilute you can safely drink it, way below the typical amounts for sanitization for a couple hours followed by draining, rinsing, and possible neutralization with dilute white vinegar solutions. I simply drain and water plants with the municipal tapwater (no added bleach, of course) every couple of weeks or once a month and then immediately refill again if we otherwise aren't using the camper, where all parts of system are enclosed and no sunlight hits anything. But, this method also worked on a Roadtrek with tank and some lines under floorpan where a little light could reflect off ground and potentially support algae growth but never did.

Edited by michelle_east_county, 20 August 2022 - 05:20 PM.

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#13 ckent323

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Posted 20 August 2022 - 06:34 PM

michelle east county, et al,

There are inexpensive water system "blow out" kits available to facilitate use of compressed air to blow all the water out of the camper water system.  Of course you need access to a source of compressed air to use these.

e.g.  https://www.amazon.c...er line blowout


I hope this is helpful,

 

Craig


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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone


#14 buckland

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Posted 20 August 2022 - 07:20 PM

Very interesting Craig. Have you or anyone you know used this instead of the RV antifreeze method? Being in a place where the temps get sub zero often I would hate to find in the Spring not all water was blown out.  I have a quality compressor and if this is sure to work it would solve my problem of having to put antifreeze in a couple months before departure in January. That way I could fill the tank from a hose at a park once I got to warmer climes. That would be dandy.

 

But just now to refresh my memory I went out and opened the water tank fill door. The fitting lacks hose threads and there is that breather screen pipe as well to somehow seal off to allow pressure to force the water out the rear drain and sink pump spigot. 


Edited by buckland, 20 August 2022 - 07:33 PM.

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2001 Tacoma with 2011 Eagle

2016 Duramax 2.8 Diesel long bed Colorado 4WD with 2011 Eagle

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#15 buckland

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Posted 27 August 2022 - 06:00 PM

Does anyone know of a replacement water intake assembly and door unit that matches ups with the FWC models that has the threaded  hose set up? This would make it possible to use a compressor to blow ou water from system.


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2001 Tacoma with 2011 Eagle

2016 Duramax 2.8 Diesel long bed Colorado 4WD with 2011 Eagle

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#16 ckent323

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Posted 28 August 2022 - 09:11 AM

Here is a video on draining and blowing out an FWC water system (it is for newer models).   

 


Edited by ckent323, 28 August 2022 - 09:13 AM.

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#17 buckland

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Posted 28 August 2022 - 10:48 AM

Thanks for that I'll call FWC and see if they know if I can swap out the fill door setup as my 2011 Eagle does not have the city water hose attachment...just the fill cap hose .


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2001 Tacoma with 2011 Eagle

2016 Duramax 2.8 Diesel long bed Colorado 4WD with 2011 Eagle

Rob

Instagram  lordwoodcraft


#18 Vic Harder

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Posted 29 August 2022 - 06:20 AM

Thanks for that I'll call FWC and see if they know if I can swap out the fill door setup as my 2011 Eagle does not have the city water hose attachment...just the fill cap hose .

Rob, I'm sure you can make that swap.  The opening in the outside wall is the same size and if you can reach the fittings on the inside, its and easy process to swap them


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#19 buckland

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Posted 29 August 2022 - 10:50 AM

Well that would be usual Vic! Something that is easy! I'd enjoy something with 3 simple steps for a change. Probably be able to finds it on Amazon rather than FWC. Thanks for the reassurance.

Rob


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2001 Tacoma with 2011 Eagle

2016 Duramax 2.8 Diesel long bed Colorado 4WD with 2011 Eagle

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#20 Vic Harder

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Posted 29 August 2022 - 04:56 PM

I got mine off amazon.  Something like this one

Amazon.com: Valterra A01-2000VP Gravity/City Water Inlet Hatch - Brass, White (Carded) : Automotive


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2015 Silverado 3500 crew cab 8' bed Diesel

2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/

Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/

Building out an electrical system - So, you want to setup a good electrical system in your camper? - Electrical, Charging, Solar, Batteries and Generators - Wander the West





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