6 replies to this topic

[JoeKan]

Hello everybody. I have been camping in my 1972 10-ft NCO for the past month while I am working out of town. Every time I go out of town I always use my camper because I dislike hotel rooms and this has been a blessing to me. I'm wanting to upgrade the refrigerator because it has never worked since I bought the camper 5 years ago and I was wondering should I replace it with a new one and if so what type or which one, or should I take the old fridge in and have someone look at it to see if they can fix it? I would imagine the newer ones are much better efficient than the older ones. Also the furnace has never worked since I purchased this camper either. What would be a good furnace to replace this one with? I would appreciate any help thank you.

[Dr.Science]

I have a 1990 with the stock Dometic 2-way refrigerator. It's barely adequate. When in electric mode it draws 12 amps. Under any circumstances it is very slow to cool down and can't cope with hot weather - it seems to cool to a maximum of about 60F below ambient temperature. I understand newer propane fridges of this size draw about 6 amps, but they still are slow to perform and have limited cooling ability. So, a lot of people are going to compressor refrigerators, which only run on electricity. They don't run as much of the time and they draw less power, but you need the electric system to support it. They also seem to be better insulated and they can operate easily on your truck power when you're driving. So you need to evaluate which one you need. Then, there's the problem that top-opening fridges are generally better insulated than front-opening models. One solution is to get a top-opening one that fits into your available space and is mounted on a sliding shelf, so you slide it out to get into it and then slide it back in.

 

Or, you can just buy the latest 3-way Dometic model. It's a pretty standard size and they likely have a model that fits approximately into your old space. Some carpentry will likely be needed.

[Dr.Science]

Furnaces. The standard issue Alaskan model these days is the smallest model Suburban. It doesn't get great reviews. Most higher-end mini RVs are using the Truma, which is expensive and rather bulky but combines a water heater with a furnace. Personally I want to try the Propex ( https://www.suremari...ed-Air-Heaters/ ) which is a marine heater. Some people use small diesel heaters which is a complicated topic that's discussed a lot on the internet. Something to consider if your truck is diesel. Then there are radiant heaters but burning propane produces a lot of water vapor; I can say from experience that radiant heaters don't cut it in a damp climate.

[JoeKan]

Thanks doc, that's a lot of good info. What I am presently using as a fridge is a Walmart dorm fridge that I have set on top of my counter that's above the existing refrigerator. It's 110 volts and it does a really good job. I have used a Mr Buddy propane heater in previous years when I worked during the winter months. It did a good job along with a really good sleeping bag. Looks like I'll be working up here this winter too but the downside on the Mr Buddy is it seems to always be in the way. I would love to be able to install a heater in the same location as the existing one which is right below the fridge.

[capt.don]

I have an '81 10'co. It had a toilet in the aft starboard corner that was a useless recirculating type. I removed it and put in a chinese diesel heater in the space. I couldn't be happier with the results, dry, quieter than forced air propane and sips fuel. Plumbed the intake and exhaust right out the back where the sewer dump was, there are some nice marine thru-hull fittings available on-line that make it easy to convert and looks like a factory install. Heater kit came with everything needed including ductwork, I use it in Canada and the northern US with far better results than the catalytic "wake-no-more" original equipment heater.

[JoeKan]

Thanks Capt., appreciate your input. I'm going have to do something soon, I think it's going to be an early autumn. 

[hugho]

I have a 1990 with the stock Dometic 2-way refrigerator. It's barely adequate. When in electric mode it draws 12 amps. Under any circumstances it is very slow to cool down and can't cope with hot weather - it seems to cool to a maximum of about 60F below ambient temperature. I understand newer propane fridges of this size draw about 6 amps, but they still are slow to perform and have limited cooling ability. So, a lot of people are going to compressor refrigerators, which only run on electricity. They don't run as much of the time and they draw less power, but you need the electric system to support it. They also seem to be better insulated and they can operate easily on your truck power when you're driving. So you need to evaluate which one you need. Then, there's the problem that top-opening fridges are generally better insulated than front-opening models. One solution is to get a top-opening one that fits into your available space and is mounted on a sliding shelf, so you slide it out to get into it and then slide it back in.

 

Or, you can just buy the latest 3-way Dometic model. It's a pretty standard size and they likely have a model that fits approximately into your old space. Some carpentry will likely be needed.

I am a newbie to the Alaskan(my first truck camper) but I have built 3 towable  tiny houses from 26' down to 16' as well as several large boats, 2 from scratch. I have never seen or used a propane fridge. Mine is a Dometic RW230. I had read negative comments about propane fridges so early on I tested it running on just propane and then just 110V. On a warm day here in Wyoming(80 degrees) they cooled with both systems rather slowly to about 45-50 degrees(Fridge) after a few hours. Not impressed.  But I tested both overnite and I was shocked. After 6-8 hours the freezer compartment was -18 F and the fridge+19!! This was on high with propane. With 110 the next night after 6-8 hrs the numbers were a bit warmer but still too cold(-8F and 23F.I had them on the max setting. Our overnite temps here are typically the low40's in summer, sometimes upper 30's which must have helped this super cooling. I did not use any fan assist but cracked the windows. I was assuming I would be adding an electric fridge with solar panels and a Li Fe PO4 battery which is the system I install on tiny houses. I use the highly efficient well insulated Midea big dorm fridge with a separate freezer door which I STRONGLY recommend($240) It easily keeps subzero in the freezer rather quickly and 35-39 in the fridge on minimal 110 power off our small inverter. I have two 300+ watt solar panels on the roof. Even in summer this is way more capacity than needed. It is just adequate if I run lights, fridge and a 1440 watt(110V) electric water heater. Long showers will pull the 100AH battery down. I would guess that just a single panel would be plenty for fridge, and lights and a fan.(Total cost for 2 panels +controller and inverter is under $1 K.) Right now I am super pleased with the Alaskan propane system and the Suburban furnace is great  in sub 32deg nites. I have added extra foam insulation where possible, 3.5" in the floor for example. I assume that camping in sub zero winter Wyoming  conditions would not be comfortable but I will try and see what happens. Our tiny house RVs are very warm but are spray foam insulated heavily and require little electric or propane heat even with below zero nights. This is my experience so far. Iw will post some other "improvements that I and the capable previous owner have done.